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Springfield prodigy-a short-term review


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12 hours ago, Racinready300ex said:

 

I'm staying stock for ignition kit. I set my trigger at about 3 lbs I'm sure it could be lower with stock parts but that's all I wanted. Tool-less guide rod I went with a Atlas. My gun is a 4.25. I did go to a 10 lbs recoil spring and a 19 lbs hammer spring. 

 

I expect even how I shoot this should last at least a couple years. and even then I bet if something in the ignition parts failed I could probably send it back to Springfield and get it fixed for free. Then run it a few more years. 

 

Everyone worries about mim, I had one mim hammer fail in the past. It was around 25-30k rounds and it was only the spur that broke off, the gun still functioned fine. I did then change out all the ignition parts on that gun. 

I did the Atlas rod also, I have had it lock up three times while shooting. I think I would like too try the 10 pound spring also, who's spring did you go with. I really feel I got lucky, the 4.25" I have has been 100% until the atlas rod. Also found the hotter the load the nicer the gun feels, main reason I would like to try the 10# recoil/19# main spring combo, thinking lighter loads might feel more like the hot +P stuff withe stock springs. As far as mim parts go, I don't care, other than true custom stuff I would be willing to bet mim parts are in everything. 

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Two piece guide rod works fine.  Been using them for 30 years and never had one break, come apart, or fail in any way. Can't say the same for 1-piece rods.  As for recoil springs, I thought 10# was stock for the 4.25" guns.  Also, a Commander spring is way longer than the stock Springfield spring in OAL.  But I didn't measure the wire diameter or number of coils, so I'm not sure what the stack height is vs. the stock spring.

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7 hours ago, costeel said:

Maybe answered previously, but what is the stock recoil spring weight on the 5"?

Not listed anywhere in the manual.

 

Thanks

I measured mine at 9#. Tried an 11# when it was having RTB errors and that didn't work. Turns out it was the chamber was too tight and too much friction with the slide/frame finish, once I got that reamed and slicked up it works well.

 

As for the ignition parts the 4.25 was really a decent trigger but the 5 was crap so I replaced the hammer, sear and dissconnector with Wilson parts. I know better than to take a stone to MIM parts.

 

The 5 I put in a Dawson tooless and the 4.25 an Atlas. Atlas is kind of weird, like backwards of the Dawson which I have many of. Haven't run the Atlas yet but I might get a 4.4" Dawson and see if I can cut it down.

 

My final comment is I think the 5 has too much slide mass, it just feels heavy and sluggish compared to all of my 5" 2011's.

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10 hours ago, ltdmstr said:

Two piece guide rod works fine.  Been using them for 30 years and never had one break, come apart, or fail in any way. Can't say the same for 1-piece rods.  As for recoil springs, I thought 10# was stock for the 4.25" guns.  Also, a Commander spring is way longer than the stock Springfield spring in OAL.  But I didn't measure the wire diameter or number of coils, so I'm not sure what the stack height is vs. the stock spring.

 

How does a one piece steel guide rod even fail? I've seen tungsten fail once, the rod ejected out the front of the gun. Shooter was able to shoot the rest of the match with no GR in the gun lol. But I know tung can be brittle so it kinda makes sense. How a solid piece of steel breaks I can't even imagine. 

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2 hours ago, Racinready300ex said:

How a solid piece of steel breaks I can't even imagine.

 

Some so called one-piece guide rods are actually two piece.  The head screws into the shaft, so it looks like a one-piece.  I had one come apart.  I cleaned the threads and red Loctited it.  Now I only use true one-piece guide rods.

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couple of times I had guns with 2 piece guide rods they would constantly unscrew on me no matter what I did. Also made disassembly a PIA.. Both guns were 6", I ended up getting a 1 piece guide rod, and cutting it to be 1 inch longer than a Mil spec guide rod, and never looked back.

Far as the guy asking about rock island ? Id probably look for a Jennings before I would ever buy another. 
The most PIA 1911 I ever worked on.  Frame was out of spec and doing any type of mods was a pain.. I mean simple things like an add on mag funnel, or MSH cap.. 
Now I have the ring around the firing pin hole on thebreach face... Yet never saw any sign of gas leaks by the primers of fired rounds. 
Its a 6" 45 and I have an extra new slide,, will trade it for a 5" XDM 45

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2 hours ago, zzt said:

 

Some so called one-piece guide rods are actually two piece.  The head screws into the shaft, so it looks like a one-piece.  I had one come apart.  I cleaned the threads and red Loctited it.  Now I only use true one-piece guide rods.

 

This.  Most tungsten rods have steel heads that thread into the tungsten portion.  I've had and seen them snap at the threads, and also unscrew.  Same for the plain steel rods.

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4 minutes ago, ltdmstr said:

 

This.  Most tungsten rods have steel heads that thread into the tungsten portion.  I've had and seen them snap at the threads, and also unscrew.  Same for the plain steel rods.

 

This I don't really follow. You said above you've never had a 2 piece rod fail in 30 years. Here you're saying you've had one piece rods that were build as two pieces threaded together unscrew and fail. In my mind that's a two piece rod failing. 

 

How is a two piece rod that is two pieces threaded together better than a one piece rod that is two pieces threaded together?

 

 

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2 hours ago, Racinready300ex said:

This I don't really follow. You said above you've never had a 2 piece rod fail in 30 years. Here you're saying you've had one piece rods that were build as two pieces threaded together unscrew and fail. In my mind that's a two piece rod failing. 

 

How is a two piece rod that is two pieces threaded together better than a one piece rod that is two pieces threaded together?

 

Well, just to be clear, most so-called "one-piece" rods are not actually made from a single piece of steel.  They're made from two pieces; a head and the rod part.  But, they are supposed to stay together as one piece permanently.  They're not supposed to come apart.  A two-piece rod has threads in the center of it's length as well as a hex cutout in the forward end so it can be disassembled when the gun is taken down.  I never said the two-piece design was better.  Just that I've never had one fail, whereas I've seen one-piece rods break or come apart.  And, that includes actual solid single-piece rods, like the oversized tungsten rod that Wilson used to sell.  Had one of those crack in half.

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I picked up a lightly used 4.25” Prodigy and like it pretty well so far. Have an Atlas tool-lesss guide rod in it but I’m not loving it at the moment it is doesn’t give you a good feeling your confidence  when the guide rod lock engages when shooting. Did  a quick trigger job with stock parts and  is pretty nice right now. I don’t know why anyone says the EGW evolved sear spring does not work because I dropped one in and seems to be perfectly good. It’s the only spare new one I had available so I had to try. So far like the gun pretty well I’ve had no failures of any sort other than the guide rod. Stock mags run fine.  I have a few hundred rounds through it at this point. 

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4 hours ago, mscott said:

I picked up a lightly used 4.25” Prodigy and like it pretty well so far. Have an Atlas tool-lesss guide rod in it but I’m not loving it at the moment it is doesn’t give you a good feeling your confidence  when the guide rod lock engages when shooting. Did  a quick trigger job with stock parts and  is pretty nice right now. I don’t know why anyone says the EGW evolved sear spring does not work because I dropped one in and seems to be perfectly good. It’s the only spare new one I had available so I had to try. So far like the gun pretty well I’ve had no failures of any sort other than the guide rod. Stock mags run fine.  I have a few hundred rounds through it at this point. 

Run a shock buffer in your guide rod.  It will feel much better and it will shorten the travel a bit and possibly eliminate your guide rod issue.  
 

I’ve had the Atlas in mine for about 1200r now, no issue.  Idk… 

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On 2/18/2023 at 10:51 PM, SufferInSilence said:

Ok fellas, mine is done! 
- Cheely L2 Grip, steel. 
- Cheely Tactical mag well, steel (a total B1tch to hand fit) 

- Grip is Cerakote Armorer Black with Fx Ranger top coat

- Trijicon SRO 5 MoA

- Atlas high ride/shielded thumb safety 

- Atlas tool-less guide rod, 8# spring 

- Infinity trigger (small flat shoe) I have a Red Dirt on standby. 

- Kept all the MIM internals for now just to put them to the test. (trigger at 1.25-ish#) 


Things I learned along the way: 

(Results may vary) 

- Prodigy trigger bow is longer than most others I compared it to.  So other bows/triggers might/probably not work in a Prodigy grip.

 

- Swap grip module and you can run what you want internally but prodigy trigger bow might not work in them.  (Too long) 
 

- Sear spring is specific to Prodigy (remember that when ordering parts).  
 

- EGW internals kit is a Prodigy specific. 
(Remember that when ordering)

 

- Infinity trigger will NOT work in Prodigy grip modules. (Call them and they will confirm this). 
 

- The frame screws on the trigger guard/grip module are fatter than say: STI/everyone else, they won’t work on swapped out grip modules.  You’ll need a new set. 
 

- Prodigy grip module doesn’t fit STI/SVI DAA Race Master holster blocks (Cheely grip does but may be overly tight for a while). 
 

- Trijicon does not provide the correct length screws to mount the SRO/RMR to the optic mount.  You’ll need to grind the screws down or buy the correct length screws on Trijicon’s site.  


- Nitro Fins don’t fit the Prodigy (someone please start making one!!!) 

 

Shoots great, only time will tell.  

Good luck.  Any questions hit me up.  

 

B012C79C-37D4-4E24-8748-892CD84EFD7B.jpeg

4.25?

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On 4/8/2023 at 5:35 PM, Davecambell said:

Picked a 5 inch yesterday. Sprayed it with white lithium grease and filled the three mags it came with a mix of wolf, al blazer and wwb. Ran through all three mags with no issues. I will start a new thread once I get a little more time.

Nice.  Good to hear.  There’s been an update to the 5” slides where they now have some internal slide lightening behind the breechface area.  Supposed to make it cycle a bit better.  Does yours have that? 

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On 4/10/2023 at 4:05 PM, vizsladog said:

I ran a 9lb recoil in my 4.25 and it ran fine. Is this to low of a recoil spring?? Damage anything??

Yeah mine is a 4.25”

I’m pretty sure I’m running an 8# spring I think.  Use shock buffers in your shizzz to make sure it doesn’t beat up the gun too much.  

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I have a 5" and I'm running a 10 lbs recoil with a 17 lbs mainspring. I did have to replace the stock TI firing pin and spring with a steel firing pin and standard FPS. I was getting some lite strikes with the 17 lbs mainspring. It runs great now, I'm using it as my 3-gun pistol.

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16 hours ago, SufferInSilence said:

Yeah mine is a 4.25”

I’m pretty sure I’m running an 8# spring I think.  Use shock buffers in your shizzz to make sure it doesn’t beat up the gun too much.  

 

Are you running a shok buff in your 4.25? I wouldn't think there is enough slide travel to add one. The slide on mine looks like it just clears the disconnector. I'd think adding a buff would shorten the stroke and cause issues.

 

I'm debating signing up for open minor in our sections, sectional coming up in a few weeks. It sucks our state championship in June doesn't appear to be going to run LO as a division. Kinda lame. 

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5 hours ago, Racinready300ex said:

 

Are you running a shok buff in your 4.25? I wouldn't think there is enough slide travel to add one. The slide on mine looks like it just clears the disconnector. I'd think adding a buff would shorten the stroke and cause issues.

 

I'm debating signing up for open minor in our sections, sectional coming up in a few weeks. It sucks our state championship in June doesn't appear to be going to run LO as a division. Kinda lame. 

Yes I’m running it in a 4.25” for about 2k rounds and 7-8 weeks now.  Runs flawlessly.  Feels great.  If you’re running a heavier bullet it’ll feel even better.  

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11 hours ago, SufferInSilence said:

Yes I’m running it in a 4.25” for about 2k rounds and 7-8 weeks now.  Runs flawlessly.  Feels great.  If you’re running a heavier bullet it’ll feel even better.  

 

I've also got the 4.25, and I really just started running mine. Probably got a 1k on it so far and it's working great. I'm going to try to run mine as close to stock as I can for as long as I can. But, I've got buffs and different springs somewhere maybe I'll try them and see how it does. 

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I have the 4.25 and the 5.0 inch with an SRO on top. The Stl’s and stacattos are not getting much action as of lately.  The prodigy’s shoot really good.  Trying to decide which to shoot at Double Tap this year is kinda hard. Going to shoot open minor just for fun. I have 1000 rounds through both. Really impressed with them for the price. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

So, a little later on here's a little more info. Gun still is working good, had a little bit of a hammer follow issue after the trigger job. Hopefully that's worked out now after adding a little weight back to it and doing a little adjustment. Gun had ran 100% up till that point, and was really nice for a few hundred rounds after the trigger job lol. And that's all with factory components

 

 

I put the egw magwell on it, super simple install works great, nice and big.

 

On mags, I went back and forth on just buying an mbx or building up mine. So I decided to split the difference and put one factory prodigy mag together and see how it works. With a TTI 4 mil base pad and grams guts it holds 23 and is reloadable if you seat it good and hard. I actually just got that stuff today, and ammo feeds through it fine but I haven't got to shoot it yet. I did have to sand the follower a little bit to keep it from locking back. My next purchase will probably be a 24 round mbx mag. I do not have a MAG gauge, but with my caliper adjusted to 141.25 the mag appears to fit pretty easy with the TTI base pad. Also the TTI base pad with the original follower in spring got me 21 rounds reloadable, but was enough difference that the factory follower would no longer lock the slide back so I don't know how well it would function.

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