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Oil or grease?


Triggerslapper999

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On 6/7/2022 at 6:59 PM, Philip Dedmon said:

For Open Gun

Gun Butter on Slide & Frame rails

Gun Butter on Recoil Rod

Gun Butter on Sear Pin, Hammer Pins, Barrel Link Pin & Safeties 

Gun Butter on Barrel locking Lugs & Barrel Hood

Clenzoil Grease on Sear/Hammer hooks (just a dab)

Clenziol Grease on Main Spring

Clenziol Grease on Barrel Link Boss (just a dab)

Clenziol Grease on Comp Sleeve   

 

Works for me but I have been told that I am a little weird

I’ll have to check out gun butter. Thanks for the suggestion!

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FWIW Dave Dawson ,about 12 years ago,told me Dawson Precision uses FP-10 oil exclusively on their own Limited/Open pistols. Some have 70k + rounds with little appreciable wear

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I got a sample of gun butter at Area 6 this year and I've really liked it, so much I'm about to buy more. It holds up well even on high round count practice sessions.

I use Mobil 5w20 on my xl750 the grease joints get Lucas red 

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Anyone on this thread mark their brass and have it affect the oil's viscosity after a few stages? Has it ever caused a FTF/FTE?

 

I use a thick red sharpie line on my brass for the best visibility in my environment and have found that after a few stages the marker dye is mixing with the oil causing the slide to slow down a bit. A few drops on the rails fixes it, but if I could find a better oil for my situation or a better way to mark brass that still allows it to be highly visible (thick lines vs thin line).

 

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7 hours ago, BritinUSA said:

Never had this issue. Do you lube the cases before reloading, if so do you tumble the rounds afterwards to remove any excess ?

 

Also, what oil are you using  and where are you putting it ?

No lubing afterwards. The oil came with the pistol. It's some blue stuff. I'm going to give Lucas oil a try next match and see how things fair. I was just curious if anyone else here ran into that before.

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I use Grease and Oil. Slide Glide Lite grease on all of the main parts (Slide, Barrel, Frame, Guide Rod, etc) then Lucas Extreme Duty Oil on the trigger parts (Sear, Hammer, Disconnector, etc). I use a tooth brush to apply a thin coating of Slide Glide Light on all of the main parts, then I add a few drops of Lucas Extreme Duty Oil to the frame rails and barrel hood. The Oil applied in these areas basically eliminates any "stickiness" on the moving parts regardless of range temp (10 deg F - 100 deg F). Yes, I am a freak who still goes out to shoot when the temperature is what most others would consider a "HARD PASS". 

 

The Slide Glide Lite serves as a good barrier between the burnt powder and metal which makes cleaning the gun very easy. I never have to dig at or scrape burnt powder off of the main parts. The only part that I need to scrape burnt powder off of is the extractor hook which is to be expected. Everything else comes clean by simply spraying CRC Electronic Connector Cleaner on it. I can fully disassemble, clean, inspect, lube and reassemble a 1911/2011 in about 20 minutes.

 

In Open, the main advantage to this lubrication package is that there isn't a bunch of oil to get flung around as the slide cycles. This means no oil getting flung onto the glass of the red dot. It will also maintain proper lubrication for at least 1000 rounds on my Open gun and at least 2500 rounds on my Limited gun. Most "Motor Oils" will fling off or weep out of the gun well before 500 rounds. Motor Oil is also a very poor barrier against burnt powder residue.

 

The Lubrication package you use should correlate to your Shooting vs Cleaning schedule. If you only shoot a few hundred rounds between cleans, then Motor Oil will get the job done. If you shoot thousands of rounds between cleans then a more robust lubrication package is needed like the combo I am using. I don't know about you guys but I would rather spend my time shooting guns vs cleaning them. So I use a robust lubrication package that allows me to do that.

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On 12/23/2022 at 5:57 PM, CHA-LEE said:

I use Grease and Oil. Slide Glide Lite grease on all of the main parts (Slide, Barrel, Frame, Guide Rod, etc) then Lucas Extreme Duty Oil on the trigger parts (Sear, Hammer, Disconnector, etc). I use a tooth brush to apply a thin coating of Slide Glide Light on all of the main parts, then I add a few drops of Lucas Extreme Duty Oil to the frame rails and barrel hood. The Oil applied in these areas basically eliminates any "stickiness" on the moving parts regardless of range temp (10 deg F - 100 deg F). Yes, I am a freak who still goes out to shoot when the temperature is what most others would consider a "HARD PASS". 

 

The Slide Glide Lite serves as a good barrier between the burnt powder and metal which makes cleaning the gun very easy. I never have to dig at or scrape burnt powder off of the main parts. The only part that I need to scrape burnt powder off of is the extractor hook which is to be expected. Everything else comes clean by simply spraying CRC Electronic Connector Cleaner on it. I can fully disassemble, clean, inspect, lube and reassemble a 1911/2011 in about 20 minutes.

 

In Open, the main advantage to this lubrication package is that there isn't a bunch of oil to get flung around as the slide cycles. This means no oil getting flung onto the glass of the red dot. It will also maintain proper lubrication for at least 1000 rounds on my Open gun and at least 2500 rounds on my Limited gun. Most "Motor Oils" will fling off or weep out of the gun well before 500 rounds. Motor Oil is also a very poor barrier against burnt powder residue.

 

The Lubrication package you use should correlate to your Shooting vs Cleaning schedule. If you only shoot a few hundred rounds between cleans, then Motor Oil will get the job done. If you shoot thousands of rounds between cleans then a more robust lubrication package is needed like the combo I am using. I don't know about you guys but I would rather spend my time shooting guns vs cleaning them. So I use a robust lubrication package that allows me to do that.

This is how I oil/grease my open guns and have never had an issue. I have switched to Lucas red N tacky instead of Slide Glide Lite however. I also only shoot in sub 50degree temps maybe once a year. 

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1 hour ago, kaseyj5056 said:

Thick oil all day. If your 2011 can run on grease, its not tight enough 

Yeah, maybe for a bullseye gun. For the kind of shooting we do I think the owner of this site would disagree! He has been selling a 'gun grease" for years. It's called "Slide Glide". I don't think the stuff would have stayed on the market for 20 years if it didn't work.

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