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Everything posted by CHA-LEE
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What you described and the eventual solution you found was due to Bump Firing. When the trigger is light and the over travel is set to a minimal distance you need to grip the gun HARD to keep it from shifting around within your hand during recoil. The more the gun shifts round within your hand the more opportunity bump fire has to happen.
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What you described and the eventual solution you found was due to Bump Firing. When the trigger is light and the over travel is set to a minimal distance you need to grip the gun HARD to keep it from shifting around within your hand during recoil. The more the gun shifts round within your hand the more opportunity bump fire has to happen.
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increase in trigger pull weight is to be expected on "Normal" hammers as increasing the main spring weight also increases how hard the hammer hooks are pressed into the sear lip. EGW hammers have the hammer strut pin position over clocked just enough to put the pivot point in an almost over travel scenario. This dramatically reduces the "Cocked Force" between the hammer hooks and sear lip. It also dramatically reduces how much the trigger pull weight changes when swapping main spring weights. On a properly setup EGW Sear & Hammer setup you will rarely feel much of any trigger pull weight difference between a 15lb > 24lb main spring. I can't speak to why BUL would think a 13lb main spring would be reliable in a 1911/2011 style production pistol which would be exposed to a wide range of ammo and varied primer hardness's. Sounds like a dumb idea to me but what do I know.
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Ammo to practice or training class where is my $ best spent?
CHA-LEE replied to mrgoodwrench's topic in Tips for Improvement
Here are some things to consider..... 1 - We can only absorb a finite amount of training content within a single training session. The quantity of what can be effectively absorbed is WAY LESS than what many people think. When I attend classes, if I come away from it with 2 - 3 solid "Nuggets" of content that I can take home and beat up in my own practice that is a WIN. 2 - Learning how to Learn is way more important than being spoon fed Training Content. Training Content will go in one year and out the other shortly after the class if you don't have a solid process defined on how to implement what was learned. If you don't know what is needed to teach yourself something, then expecting someone else to magically do it for you isn't going turn out well in the long run. Learning how to Learn is a Skill in of itself. Master it. 3 - Every round you shoot or dry fire rep you perform SHOULD have a measurable Success/Fail outcome. Force yourself to make every round/rep count and be of value. I see a bunch of people take classes where they shoot 1000-2000 rounds but 90% or more of that ammo was wasted because they are "Mindlessly Blasting" through the drills. Treat each round as if it cost $10. That should change your mindset on making each round "Count". Also realize that X quantity of ammo shot doesn't automatically translate to X quantity of skill or knowledge gained. There are a TON of people that shoot a lot of ammo in practice yet fail to yield long term skill improvement from that time/ammo investment. The gun going BOOM doesn't guarantee success. 4 - People usually undervalue Training Content or Classes vs Guns/Ammo/Gear. When I attend a match and look at my competitors. I am not worried about the dude with a $5000 gun on his hip and $500 worth of Training consumed. I am worried about the dude that has a $500 gun and has effectively invested $5000 into their Training. Its hard to beat it into peoples minds that the Shiny New gun they want isn't going to "Fix" their poor skill set. At the end of the day its the Indian getting the job done and not the Arrow. -
I am not saying that 9 Major it can't be done successfully. I also agree that if people are not paying attention to details while reloading ammo they are going to have issues regardless of cartridge. Case in point is the OP's pics of the fired brass. How the flatness of the primers and deformed primer hits doesn't ALREADY tell the user that there is a significant pressure problem with the load blows my mind. But it happens all the time. Reloading 9 Major ammo isn't like snapping together Lego pieces where you are kept from screwing it up. You can ABSOLUTELY screw up 9 Major ammo if you are not paying attention to the details.
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9 Major sounds great until you are faced with the realities of using a load that is well beyond the SAAMI spec for the cartridge. There is no free lunch shooting Open Major. Spend money on 38 Super Comp brass which will work without issue. Or try to make 9 Major work and deal with all of the issues that come along with that.
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The primers are SUPER FLAT. Mega over pressure. You will get pierced primers when the pressure is insane. I am yet to see any manufacture sell "Square" tipped Firing Pins. I think what you are seeing is the tip of the Firing Pin has actually been sheered or gas cut off due to the excessive pressure and gas flowing back through the pierced primer. Welcome to 9 Major. Crazy stuff happens when you load to pressures WAY BEYOND SAAMI spec for a given cartridge. Try using Rifle Primers as they are harder and resist the over pressure scenario a little better. But you may have to switch powders or reduce the powder drop to chill out the pressure spikes.
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Over the years I worked a few stages with Tom as an RO and can't even count how many Major matches I seen him working at while attending as a competitor. Tom was always willing to share his extensive Officiating & Match Management knowledge. It was always fun to work with Tom or simply shoot one of the stages he was working. The Practical Shooting Sports is absolutely diminished by his loss. Rest In Peace my Friend!!!
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That is why its good to have a spring weight measurement gauge. You can likely start with a slightly heaver pound rate government length spring then cut coils off until it no longer coil binds in the reverse plug when fully compressed. Then measure the spring weight. Then continue to cut coils or portions of coils off until the desired spring weight is achieved.
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Shadow 2 OAL with high shoulder, jacketed TC short bullets
CHA-LEE replied to carinab's topic in 9mm/38 Caliber
In my experience over the years ammo OAL has very little effect to the accuracy of pistol ammunition which is used for the Practical Shooting sports. Rage blasting at 3 yard targets doesn't demand super precision accuracy ammo. Rage blasting at 3 yard targets DOES demand super reliable feeding. OAL does have a tremendous effect on feeding quality and yes every bullet type and shape has its optimal OAL to promote very reliable feeding. Ream the throat so you can shoot whatever bullet type and shape you want at a "Normal" OAL that feeds reliably. The cost of a reamer is nothing in comparison to the cost of the ammo shot during a season. Or try to use super short OAL ammo and battle nose dive jams. One solution is more enjoyable than another. Decide wisely. -
Shadow 2 OAL with high shoulder, jacketed TC short bullets
CHA-LEE replied to carinab's topic in 9mm/38 Caliber
I think you are missing a very important factor to the Ammo OAL. OAL has a direct correlation to reliable feeding as the tip of the bullet needs to hit the feed ramp at the correct place in order to ensure it climbs up it and chambers. Your "Stubby" ammo may fit in the chamber but also feed like crap while you shoot. Welcome to Nose Dive feeding jams. The proper solution here is to ream the lands to increase the throat distance so that the "High Shoulder" bullets can still be loaded at a feeding reliable OAL and also chamber properly. CZ Shadow 2's have very short lands and many others have experienced your exact same issue. Do some searching on the forum for this issue and reamer solutions. -
The heavier the recoil spring the more abrupt the stop is when the slide snaps forward. The harder is slams closed the more everything moves around during that event. In my 9mm LO blasters I am using a 7lb recoil spring.
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There is a lot of stuff happening super fast when the slide snaps forward which we can't even see unless super slow motion video is used. Check out the slow motion Slide Lock Drop footage from the below video. It starts at time frame 2:50. I am not promoting this video as gospel as to why you shouldn't slide lock drop a 1911/2011 style pistol. When the trigger is setup properly you should be able to slide lock drop a 1911/2011 without causing damage to the Sear/Hammer. I am referencing this video because it DOES show how the slide bounces back from the full forward position ever so slightly even when a round is being chambered. It bounces worse when there isn't a round being chambered. That abrupt "Bounce" is also being transmitted into the frame and the associated trigger components. This is what causes the nefarious "Trigger Bow Bounce" type hammer fall when a heavier Trigger Shoe/Bow is used on a really light trigger job. This slide Bounce is also depressing and releasing the disconnector. All of this is happening every time the slide snaps back forward, feeding a round or not. I am simply pointing this out because a lot of people think that the movement of the parts is a clean On/Off or Open/Closed event when the slide cycles. It is absolutely NOT happening that way. A lot of extra movement is happening every time the slide cycles when shooting. That is why Sear Spring tension and hammer hook engagement needs to be robust enough to survive the chaos happening as the slide cycles.
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Contact BUL directly for info on their products. BUT..... Even with a 15lb hammer spring on a properly setup 1911/2011 it should set off all of the "Normal" primers we use for reloads. Most 1911/2011's are setup with 17 - 20lb hammer springs which will set off super hard primers. I also want to point out that "My ammo works in this other 2011" is never a solid confirmation that the ammo is "Good" for any 2011 type of gun. Every gun has its own unique build qualities that may not work with the same ammo as another gun. To rule out the ammo, try Factory ammo to see if the light strike issue continues.
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From what you have described it sounds like more of a High Primer situation than anything. If the Primers are flush or protruding above the brass at all they are not seated deep enough. When the primers are seated to the proper depth they should be recessed a little bit vs the top of the brass. High primers can also cause the slide to not fully lock up in the full forward position because the extractor hook depth is fighting against the brass rim because the primer is pinching against the breach face instead of the bottom of the brass. If the slide is unlocked even a little bit the hammer will fall against the bottom edge of the firing pin stop instead of the firing pin. Taking coils off of the firing pin spring to make it "Softer" is not a good solution for a 1911/2011 style pistol. Doing that will allow the firing pin to plunge forward as the slide snaps forward and actually cause a light strike scenario. This is due to the head of the firing pin still being forward or just returning from plunging forward when the hammer falls. This is usually only exposed during aggressive rage blasting pace shooting, but it can happen. Eliminate the basic mechanics of it by taking the slide off the gun, remove the firing pin, remove the spring from the firing pin, then test fit the firing pin in the slide. The tip should easily pass through the hole in the breach face without any friction or resistance. Repeat the same process with the Firing Pin Stop vs the head of the firing pin.
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Learn how to stone the sear, hammer and tune the sear spring tension. If you can do that, then it doesn’t matter how long a trigger job lasts. More importantly you will be able to resolve trigger issues yourself when they do start to happen. The extra bonus is that you will be able to setup the trigger pull weight and characteristics of the break to exactly how you like it.
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For whatever its worth, I prefer the Extreme Engineering Race Disconnector. I have done a boatload of 1911/2011 trigger jobs using the EE Race Disconnector with the EGW Hard Sear, Hammer and sear spring. https://www.shootersconnectionstore.com/Browse-by-Manufacturer/Extreme-Engineering/Extreme-Race-Disconnector The crazy thing is that you don’t even realize how much the head of the disconnector has worn down until you compare the overall length to a new one. The sharpness of the 90 degree angle at the bottom of the breach face seems to be a big contributor to excessive wear.
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I have seen this type of failure happen on my blasters when the head of the disconnector gets worn down too far. The head of the disconnector gets worn down over time by the breach face and rib on the under side of the slide. As the head gets worn down the disconnector gets pushed down less and less to the point of it not disconnecting from the sear legs anymore. Try swapping the disconnector with a different one to see if that resolves the random hammer follow issues.
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New "Comped" Canik / TTI SFX Model Droppoing at Shot this week
CHA-LEE replied to notanoperator993's topic in Canik
I guess I don't get the fascination with "Comped" 9mm pistols. Standard 9mm ammo is already a very easy caliber to shoot and manage recoil on. Adding a comp isn't going to Fix poor grip mechanics. Grip the gun properly and managing recoil effectively isn't a problem. To me adding a Comp to a handgun cambered in 9mm is like adding a Wing to a Honda Civic. Looks cool but servers virtually zero improvement in performance. I guess companies have to do "Something" each year to release something "New" regardless of it actually being a tangible improvement to the product. -
Time to "Vote" with where and how you choose to spend your $$$
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I have several Limited Optics Setups and have posted about them on this forum. I have shot a bunch of different setups and prefer lighter ones. If someone is going to buy a gun already built for Limited Optics I would suggest the Atlas Athena. That blaster is setup perfectly for 9mm Minor and Limited Optics.
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The "Few folks that have done this with no problems" need to go buy some powerball tickets or actually shoot their guns with a decent amount of rounds to prove functionality. The 9mm barrel in a 40 Slide swap debate has been going on forever and the lifecycle of "It works until it doesn't work" continually repeats for the next person who thinks they can prove everyone wrong. The people who claim that this setup "Works" are also usually the same people who claim that their gun never jams, yet it jams every match and they seem to forget that it happened. Think about it this way, if it actually worked reliably long term don't you think that it would be universally accepted and sold as such broadly? It's not and that in of itself should tell you the answer you are looking for.
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Ultimate Build = No Custom Build. Buy an already optimized setup from a known good vendor/builder and shoot the crap out of it until it wears out or breaks. Throw it away and repeat.