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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About Boomstick303

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    Looks for Target

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    Castle Rock, CO
  • Real Name
    James Domenico

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  1. I will say. After making some adjustments after my 1050 arrived and taking my time to get the press running smooth I love my Dillon. One thing. Don’t force it. If the press locks up, take you time and inspect each station to find out what is causing the press to lock up. It can be one of the auxiliary systems locking up up the press. People break their stuff because they try to lower through a lock up. Case lube is your friend. Even with the carbide and fancy dies.
  2. Any time there is a hiccup in the progression of the press check each case that is either being filled or has been filled when the hiccup happened. People get so fixated on fixing the issue that caused the hiccup they forget to check the casings and how much powder is in them. I try my best to look at each case that has been filled. I have double charged cases when fixing issues with the press. I have heard some people goes as far to clear every station to prevent issue if the press is halted for any out of the ordinary reasons. I don’t think you need to buy a single stage press for your first press. I bought a 1050 and I have zero issue with reloading. I did a lot of research and watched a ton of how to videos. If you have decent mechanical skills and some sort of attention to detail you should be fine. I would have quit reloading before I started if I started with a single stage press. If you shoot PRS maybe you can get by with a single stage. If you intend to shoot any amount of rounds during the course of the year go progressive. I will agree one of the major factors the size of your press should be based on the amount you intend to shoot. If you don’t know exactly I would go to a smaller press. In the video in the link I do not know if this guy knows everything about reloading but I felt his recommendation on which press to buy for the amount of reloading you plan to do was pretty accurate. It’s one of the basis of me purchasing a 1050.
  3. That all makes perfect sense. Too bad I didn't have the funds last month. Mark 7 was giving away 1 sensor with the purchase of a Mark 7 last month. Thanks. Much appreciated.
  4. Thanks, that helps put things in perspective for me. Not far off on the assumption. I try to load 800-1000 rounds per session. Something I have noted is the press seems to get (I don't know how exactly how to explain what I am feeling so I will use the term sticky but that is not quite correct) sticky. The press is not as smooth after loading around 1000 rounds. If I let the press sit, it is smooth again for another 800-1000 rounds. I don't know if that is from lubrication warming up and the press not having enough lube or what. I have not tracked that down yet. I was sort of thinking along the same lines about the tool head conversions. At around 5,000-8,000 rounds of anything just move to a different process or process for a certain caliber and maintenance the press when switching tool heads. Designated tool heads are the way to go, and now that I think about it would have been purchased now matter which direction I would have gone in. Do you find you always perform maintenance at 5000 rounds? Dillon says 10,000, but due to automating your press do you move that to 5000 rounds? I do intend to load 223 in the winter. I was looking towards processing the brass now, so I can spread those tool head conversions over the next couple of months. Not sure what you are using for automation, but if you have a Mark 7 what sensors have you purchased if any, and what sensors would you think are a must have or possibly ones you you think may be a waste of money? I would think Swage sense makes the most sense for the first sensor. Thanks, for the ideas. I was pretty set on buying a CP2000, but I now think automating is a much better decision. Forums can be very useful. Your input is much appreciated.
  5. What is your current set up then? One automated press for everything? Here lies my dilemma. I have the funds for the CP2000, well I did before I realized it did not come with a case trimmer. Now that I understand that I have to shell out $2k for a complete CP2000 that is not automated, do I just divert funds to automate my Dillon 1050 by buying a Mark 7, and buy tools heads for my various needs, which are not cheap either. Plus if I automate my current 1050 then everything happens on one press. That is a lot of use on one press. I do not have a clear picture of how much 223 I will be loading. I will be loading at least 30k of 9mm a year for then next couple of years. The other issue I see in automating is I probably want to use processed brass to prevent as many issues as possible when loading, on the 9mm side of things. 223 will have to be processed regardless. I prefer to do all of my processing in house and I actually don't mind reloading. Not sure about the processing because I have never done it. I do know that hand processing is not an option due to the time suck. I assume there is more than enough room for the case trimmer once the powder drop is removed from the 1050 then? Is the second swage station and functionality of the CP2000 worth it? Lastly, am I better just automating my current 1050 and using it for everything?
  6. A more interesting question is how long will it be till Open is talked about like revolver?
  7. So I have skimmed this thread but I have not seen it asked. Since the CP2000 does NOT come with the case trimmer, has anyone used a case trimmer on their Super 1050 or RL1000 to process bass? $2k is pretty expensive option for a machine that only processes brass?
  8. Honestly it doesn’t need anything. I would just shoot the thing and decide from there. While I have done many things discussed by others above they were not required to compete. I like to tinker and mostly most of what I have done was not required. The one exception is doing something grip wise. Grip tape, stipple job, or some other sort of texturing should be done. The grip works fine but I can see where it would get slick with sweaty hands. With that said for the tinkering types. Custom stipple and Cerakote job. The Cerakote on both the frame and the slide seem to make the action a touch smoother than stock setup. Tungsten guild rod with Wolff 11# spring. GrayGuns drop in trigger. I am running 2 Legions with SROs. Durability wise I have no issue with the SROs. I love them. There is the double dot issue when pointed into a low sum on the horizon. Therefore I am going to start running a Sig Romeo 3 Max but I have already had to send one back after only about 500 rounds through it. I have a new one that has been shipped. A buddy is running 2 Romeo 3 max with no issues. So hopefully the new one lasts.
  9. Most likely would depend on the screw type. If the screw head is tapered at the head where the screw makes contact with the optic most likely it would be hard for the optic to shift its zero. If the screw head is a button head, or flat where the screw contacts the optic, it could shift. Just something to keep an eye on.
  10. Curious about possible POI shift as well. If the screws do not fill the mounting holes on the optic enough, I would think its possible for the optic to shift enough during recoil to affect POI (your zero). I would probably monitor your zero for a bit to make sure it does not shift as well. It would not take much to shift the optics zero, especially at distance.
  11. You have to think about the shearing force applied to the screws. This is the reason some fabricators ask for the optic when they cut the slide for an optic. The slide cut supports the optic from sliding back and forth during recoil. From my understanding the SRO does not come into contact with the front or the back or the slide cutout when mounted directly to the X5 Legion slide. Is that the case? There are also no mounting lugs available to help prevent the fwd and aft forces placed on the optic during recoil. While it may work by just mounting the SRO to the slide, I doubt those screws will sustain that force in the long term. I would at a minimum change the screws out as a maintenance item. Most screws are not designed to take that type of force exerted on them.
  12. No issues with the Hydraulic buffer then? I have heard mixed results when it comes to using hydraulic buffers.
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