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CHA-LEE

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  • Birthday 02/06/1976

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    Charlie Perez

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  1. What you described and the eventual solution you found was due to Bump Firing. When the trigger is light and the over travel is set to a minimal distance you need to grip the gun HARD to keep it from shifting around within your hand during recoil. The more the gun shifts round within your hand the more opportunity bump fire has to happen.
  2. What you described and the eventual solution you found was due to Bump Firing. When the trigger is light and the over travel is set to a minimal distance you need to grip the gun HARD to keep it from shifting around within your hand during recoil. The more the gun shifts round within your hand the more opportunity bump fire has to happen.
  3. increase in trigger pull weight is to be expected on "Normal" hammers as increasing the main spring weight also increases how hard the hammer hooks are pressed into the sear lip. EGW hammers have the hammer strut pin position over clocked just enough to put the pivot point in an almost over travel scenario. This dramatically reduces the "Cocked Force" between the hammer hooks and sear lip. It also dramatically reduces how much the trigger pull weight changes when swapping main spring weights. On a properly setup EGW Sear & Hammer setup you will rarely feel much of any trigger pull weight difference between a 15lb > 24lb main spring. I can't speak to why BUL would think a 13lb main spring would be reliable in a 1911/2011 style production pistol which would be exposed to a wide range of ammo and varied primer hardness's. Sounds like a dumb idea to me but what do I know.
  4. Here are some things to consider..... 1 - We can only absorb a finite amount of training content within a single training session. The quantity of what can be effectively absorbed is WAY LESS than what many people think. When I attend classes, if I come away from it with 2 - 3 solid "Nuggets" of content that I can take home and beat up in my own practice that is a WIN. 2 - Learning how to Learn is way more important than being spoon fed Training Content. Training Content will go in one year and out the other shortly after the class if you don't have a solid process defined on how to implement what was learned. If you don't know what is needed to teach yourself something, then expecting someone else to magically do it for you isn't going turn out well in the long run. Learning how to Learn is a Skill in of itself. Master it. 3 - Every round you shoot or dry fire rep you perform SHOULD have a measurable Success/Fail outcome. Force yourself to make every round/rep count and be of value. I see a bunch of people take classes where they shoot 1000-2000 rounds but 90% or more of that ammo was wasted because they are "Mindlessly Blasting" through the drills. Treat each round as if it cost $10. That should change your mindset on making each round "Count". Also realize that X quantity of ammo shot doesn't automatically translate to X quantity of skill or knowledge gained. There are a TON of people that shoot a lot of ammo in practice yet fail to yield long term skill improvement from that time/ammo investment. The gun going BOOM doesn't guarantee success. 4 - People usually undervalue Training Content or Classes vs Guns/Ammo/Gear. When I attend a match and look at my competitors. I am not worried about the dude with a $5000 gun on his hip and $500 worth of Training consumed. I am worried about the dude that has a $500 gun and has effectively invested $5000 into their Training. Its hard to beat it into peoples minds that the Shiny New gun they want isn't going to "Fix" their poor skill set. At the end of the day its the Indian getting the job done and not the Arrow.
  5. I am not saying that 9 Major it can't be done successfully. I also agree that if people are not paying attention to details while reloading ammo they are going to have issues regardless of cartridge. Case in point is the OP's pics of the fired brass. How the flatness of the primers and deformed primer hits doesn't ALREADY tell the user that there is a significant pressure problem with the load blows my mind. But it happens all the time. Reloading 9 Major ammo isn't like snapping together Lego pieces where you are kept from screwing it up. You can ABSOLUTELY screw up 9 Major ammo if you are not paying attention to the details.
  6. 9 Major sounds great until you are faced with the realities of using a load that is well beyond the SAAMI spec for the cartridge. There is no free lunch shooting Open Major. Spend money on 38 Super Comp brass which will work without issue. Or try to make 9 Major work and deal with all of the issues that come along with that.
  7. The primers are SUPER FLAT. Mega over pressure. You will get pierced primers when the pressure is insane. I am yet to see any manufacture sell "Square" tipped Firing Pins. I think what you are seeing is the tip of the Firing Pin has actually been sheered or gas cut off due to the excessive pressure and gas flowing back through the pierced primer. Welcome to 9 Major. Crazy stuff happens when you load to pressures WAY BEYOND SAAMI spec for a given cartridge. Try using Rifle Primers as they are harder and resist the over pressure scenario a little better. But you may have to switch powders or reduce the powder drop to chill out the pressure spikes.
  8. Over the years I worked a few stages with Tom as an RO and can't even count how many Major matches I seen him working at while attending as a competitor. Tom was always willing to share his extensive Officiating & Match Management knowledge. It was always fun to work with Tom or simply shoot one of the stages he was working. The Practical Shooting Sports is absolutely diminished by his loss. Rest In Peace my Friend!!!
  9. That is why its good to have a spring weight measurement gauge. You can likely start with a slightly heaver pound rate government length spring then cut coils off until it no longer coil binds in the reverse plug when fully compressed. Then measure the spring weight. Then continue to cut coils or portions of coils off until the desired spring weight is achieved.
  10. In my experience over the years ammo OAL has very little effect to the accuracy of pistol ammunition which is used for the Practical Shooting sports. Rage blasting at 3 yard targets doesn't demand super precision accuracy ammo. Rage blasting at 3 yard targets DOES demand super reliable feeding. OAL does have a tremendous effect on feeding quality and yes every bullet type and shape has its optimal OAL to promote very reliable feeding. Ream the throat so you can shoot whatever bullet type and shape you want at a "Normal" OAL that feeds reliably. The cost of a reamer is nothing in comparison to the cost of the ammo shot during a season. Or try to use super short OAL ammo and battle nose dive jams. One solution is more enjoyable than another. Decide wisely.
  11. I think you are missing a very important factor to the Ammo OAL. OAL has a direct correlation to reliable feeding as the tip of the bullet needs to hit the feed ramp at the correct place in order to ensure it climbs up it and chambers. Your "Stubby" ammo may fit in the chamber but also feed like crap while you shoot. Welcome to Nose Dive feeding jams. The proper solution here is to ream the lands to increase the throat distance so that the "High Shoulder" bullets can still be loaded at a feeding reliable OAL and also chamber properly. CZ Shadow 2's have very short lands and many others have experienced your exact same issue. Do some searching on the forum for this issue and reamer solutions.
  12. The heavier the recoil spring the more abrupt the stop is when the slide snaps forward. The harder is slams closed the more everything moves around during that event. In my 9mm LO blasters I am using a 7lb recoil spring.
  13. There is a lot of stuff happening super fast when the slide snaps forward which we can't even see unless super slow motion video is used. Check out the slow motion Slide Lock Drop footage from the below video. It starts at time frame 2:50. I am not promoting this video as gospel as to why you shouldn't slide lock drop a 1911/2011 style pistol. When the trigger is setup properly you should be able to slide lock drop a 1911/2011 without causing damage to the Sear/Hammer. I am referencing this video because it DOES show how the slide bounces back from the full forward position ever so slightly even when a round is being chambered. It bounces worse when there isn't a round being chambered. That abrupt "Bounce" is also being transmitted into the frame and the associated trigger components. This is what causes the nefarious "Trigger Bow Bounce" type hammer fall when a heavier Trigger Shoe/Bow is used on a really light trigger job. This slide Bounce is also depressing and releasing the disconnector. All of this is happening every time the slide snaps back forward, feeding a round or not. I am simply pointing this out because a lot of people think that the movement of the parts is a clean On/Off or Open/Closed event when the slide cycles. It is absolutely NOT happening that way. A lot of extra movement is happening every time the slide cycles when shooting. That is why Sear Spring tension and hammer hook engagement needs to be robust enough to survive the chaos happening as the slide cycles.
  14. I also want to point out that even if you spent $350 on new mags that is only about 1500 rounds of 9mm ammo at 0.23 a round. For most people that is only 3 - 4 practice sessions worth of ammo. Putting the cost of things into perspective is a good thing sometimes.
  15. If you already have 40 Cal 140mm mags, then all you need are 9mm tubes then move the guts and pads over to the 9mm tubes. That is a lot less $$$ than you think. For example Atlas Gunworks 140mm mag tubes are only $50.
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