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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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    Parker, CO
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    Charlie Perez

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  1. My Dillon RF100 Auto Primer filler works like a champ and has done so for many years..........
  2. As I said in my post of the slow motion video, more tuning is needed on this config to make it optimal. When I get it back my primary goal is to eliminate the muzzle dip when the slide snaps forward (Recoil Spring) and to maintain a minimal amount of slide bashing to still create a little bit of muzzle flip (Hammer Spring & FPS) so that the dot moves in a smooth vertical streak while staying in the glass.
  3. Here is my Atlas Chaos in slow motion. The dot is staying in the glass through the whole cycle of the slide. This blaster could be even "Flatter" with a heavier hammer spring and less angle on the FPS. I am waiting to get it back from getting Black DLC coated to continue my tuning and load development process. For what its worth, this gun is setup with no popple holes in the barrel and the Atlas 2 port comp. https://www.instagram.com/p/B69vlgXpiKc/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
  4. As zzt has stated already, it is possible to produce a near zero muzzle flip setup with an optimized gun/ammo/spring config along with a MAN level of grip pressure. I was able to produce exactly that on my 9Major shorty open gun setup. I thought that zero muzzle flip would be better than having muzzle flip because the dot "Should" simply stay where it started. What I found is that this setup became nearly impossible to call my shots effectively because the dot would explode into a super unpredictable pattern within the glass due to the vibration and concussion as the shot fired. All of the violence of the shot firing has to go somewhere. With that failed experiment I found that a minimal amount of muzzle flip is best as it allows the dot to stay a dot and also track up and down within the glass in a very smooth and predictable manner. A predictable vertical streak of the dot within the glass is much easier to call shots with. Regardless of muzzle flip magnitude, what matters most is that when the slide snaps back forward the muzzle should return exactly to a level position with the dot centered in the glass.
  5. A "Stroked" gun simply provides a longer movement path of the slide which produces a larger window of opportunity for the recoil spring to resist the slides rearward movement. Think of it like giving a car a further breaking distance before it smashes into a wall. Its still going to smash into the wall but will be doing so with less velocity because it had a little more distance to slow down. This extra slide movement distance makes the felt recoil as the slide bashes into the frame "Feel" softer. Realistically though, the same amount of felt recoil reduction "Stroking" does can be achieved using much cheaper methods. Such as adding more weight to the non-reciprocating parts (Barrel, Frame, Guide Rod, Grip, Magwell, etc). In my testing the same felt recoil reduction that "Stroking" produces is about the same as adding 2 - 3oz of weight to the gun. 2 - 3oz of weight can easily be achieved by switching to a tungsten guide rod or a steel magwell. The fun and frustrating thing about 1911/2011 guns is that there is an endless combination of parts available on the market today. Your testing with all of these different parts to see what they do to change the felt recoil is usually restricted to the thickness of your wallet.
  6. Since tuning all of these springs and FPS's is confusing for people I made a video of what all of this stuff does a while ago.......
  7. The recoil spring has an affect on the slide velocity but not as much as the hammer spring or firing pin stop angle. The recoil spring weight should be tuned to optimize the snapping forward motion of the slide so that the muzzle returns directly to level. If you put a heavy recoil spring in there to help reduce the slide velocity it will likely help in that part of the slide movement but it could also ruin the forward motion of the slide by making the muzzle dip low as the slide snaps back forward excessively hard. Once again, observing the movement of the gun during the cycling process via slow motion video one frame at a time will tell you exactly what is causing "Movement" in the gun.
  8. The quantity and size of comp ports or popple holes ONLY affects the initial muzzle rise right as the shot fires and before the slide starts to move rearwards. The vast majority of Open guns out there start to muzzle flip when the slide hits the full rearward position. By the time the slide hits the frame in the fully back position the bulk of the gas from the spent round is already gone. Excessive rearward slide velocity is the number one contributor to muzzle flip or in other words "Flatness". You can go comp and popple crazy to try to tame the muzzle flip. But it isn't going to make much of a difference if the slide velocity is crazy. Controlling the rearward slide velocity is just as important as tuning comps, powders and popples. If you don't believe me watch just about any slow motion video of an open gun firing one frame at a time. The bulk of the muzzle flip will happen when the slide slams into the frame in the rearward position.
  9. Here is the easy answer on if a Double Sided mount is needed or worth it.......... Does the dot stay fully contained in the glass when you shoot? If it does, then you will likely prefer a double sided mount because it helps reduce dot "Noise" on the glass from the concussion & vibration induced by the shot firing and slide cycling. If the dot lifts and leaves the glass completely then comes back down into the glass after the slide cycles, then it likely doesn't matter if you run a single side or double sided mount. This is because you are allowing the gun to muzzle flip and bounce around excessively due to your grip pressure and angles. This excessive gun movement will mask any minute vibration induced dot movement caused by a single sided mount.
  10. A common root cause of support hand "slipping" or "displacing" during rapid fire is downward pressure on the support hand from the strong hand thumb. If your strong hand thumb lays on the heel of your support hand palm when gripping the gun it is very easy to displace your support hand by mashing your strong hand thumb into your support hand. The best way to test this is to simply point your strong hand thumb upwards so its not touching anything while gripping the gun and shooting aggressively. I also want to point out that its very hard to diagnose this issue without seeing a picture of your grip on the gun or slow motion video while shooting aggressively. A slow motion video will give you the best feedback on what is really happening.
  11. Do the standard 1911/2011 hammer follow tests. If those pass then its likely a bump fire. Light triggers + heavy gun + loose grip = High Bump Fire potential.
  12. Stop looking for holes on the targets to confirm your hits before you transition to the next target. That is wasting more time than your draw........
  13. Calling Shots has been discussed MANY times on this forum in excruciating length. The search function on this forum is your friend.
  14. You can partially close your Left eye which still allows you to see peripherally out of that eye but not focus on anything. This is what I do which allows me to shoot with both eyes "Open" but still maintain a right eye dominance without seeing double sights or targets. I also want to point out that there are several top shooters in the practical shooting sports that fully close their non-dominant eye when shooting. If you can't figure out shooting with both eyes open, embrace the reality that you may simply need to shoot with only your dominant eye open.
  15. I shot an indoor USPSA match at the Whistling Pines gun club last night. This was a match of frustrating events in my performance. On the first stage of the match I nicked a no shoot right next to the A zone of a distant target. Then I couldn’t reach my mag release button during the reload and had to shift my hand to get to it. By then I was already entering the next shooting position. Darn stubby thumbs. On the second stage of the match I had a mystery miss on a partial hard cover target that I shot at three times but only had one hit. Evidently the two other shots went over the top of the target. I think this was due to the lighting not being optimal and it resulted in me pointing the muzzle high to “See” the front sight and I kept it high while shooting. Then on the last stage of the match I got into blasting at brown mode and racked up 4 Delta hits and a bunch of C’s. Points donation to the max simply because I didn’t pick a place to aim at on the targets. I think this was primarily due to having given up on doing well for this match before I shot the last stage. I was in “Lets just get this match over with” mode by the time we got to the last stage. It was one of those nights where it seemed like nothing was going right for whatever reason. I guess sometimes you just suck or are simply unlucky and there isn’t much you can do about it. The good from the match is that we laughed and had fun while on the range which made the match fun overall for me.
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