Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

CHA-LEE

Forum Dealer
  • Content Count

    5,982
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About CHA-LEE

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    rezman@hotmail.com
  • Website URL
    http://www.bigpandaperformance.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Parker, CO
  • Real Name
    Charlie Perez

Recent Profile Visitors

7,575 profile views
  1. Possibly. It all depends on how much "Meat" in on that portion of the new barrel. If the barrel channel in the frame has been cut back too far then it doesn't matter if you put a new barrel in it or not. You will have to either swap the frame, or weld some material on the barrel. As I said before, this issue can be an expensive fix.
  2. The 1911/2011 platform wasn't designed so that the full force of the barrel unlock and drop down force is slammed into the barrel link and slide stop pin. The most common and easiest "Bad Effect" produced is excessively worn or broken barrel links. The less commonly found issue is the gradual ovaling of the slide stop pin hole in the frame because excessive front to back force is slammed into the slide stop pin every time you fire the gun. You can build stuff with bubble gum and bailing wire and it will "Work". But does that justify building it that way? NOPE!!! If you are spending a decent amount of money on a 1911/2011 pistol its up to you to DEMAND that its been built correctly. For what its worth, I have performed this test on many guns over the years and seen it fail the test on an alarming amount of guns from a wide range of manufactures and custom gun builders. I don't want to turn this into a mud slinging thread calling out specific brands or builders. All I am trying to do is give people a simple test to perform so they can verify the build quality of the barrel fit. KNOW the quality of build in the pistol you are buying by verifying this stuff up front. To me doing that is no different then test driving a car before you buy it to ensure that there are no glaring issues with it.
  3. The sad thing about these 1911/2011 pistols that are built incorrectly and break barrel links is that it happens WAY more than it should. Fitting a barrel or cutting a frame properly so it unlocks and bottoms out on the frame instead of the link should be gunsmithing basics. But this error during the build happens A LOT more often than it should. I think the majority of the time they get away with it because the barrel links are actually very tough and last quite a long time getting abused. Not many casual shooting "plinkers" will shoot enough ammo through the gun to break a link when that stuff is fit incorrectly. Any time I look at buying a new or used gun I perform the barrel unlock/bottom out test I listed above while checking it out. If it fails that test I will refuse to buy the gun because it can turn into an expensive fix to resolve the issue properly. Surprisingly not many people know how important that test is so they don't do it when buying 1911/2011 pistols. Test this stuff out the next time you are looking to buy a 1911/2011.
  4. Once again, if you are breaking barrel links, the barrel to frame fit wasn't done correctly. Feeding guns that break barrel links more links isn't a good long term solution. Its a band aid for a significant build quality issue.
  5. When you replace the link you can easily test it to see if the barrel is bottoming out on the frame when fully unlocked (as it should) or if its bottoming out on the link (which it shouldn't). This can easily be tested by taking the slide stop pin out, then reinstalling it so the pin portion is installed properly in the frame and link, but the lever portion is hanging down towards the trigger guard. Then place the tip of the barrel against a solid object, like a bench, then push the gun forward until it stops and hold it in that position. This will generate the correct barrel unlock & bottom out position scenario. While holding the gun forward firmly in the unlock & bottom out position, rotate the slide stop pin by pushing the "Lever" portion front to back. If the barrel has been fit to the frame properly, there should be ZERO resistance while moving the lever portion of the slide stop front to back. If there is resistance while moving the slide stop lever and that resistance corresponds to how much forward pressure you push the gun into the bench, then the barrel is bottoming out on the barrel link instead of the frame. The barrel bottoming out on the link in this scenario is the #1 reason why barrel links break. To fix this issue you need to weld more material to either the barrel or frame where they should bottom out against one another. Sometimes this isn't possible and a new barrel or new frame is needed to fix the issue and both parts must be fit properly to one another.
  6. Still having as much fun? Absolutely!!!
  7. Moving targets around a little bit, changing the shot difficulty by adding or removing partial targets, and switching up the start position location can dramatically change how any particular stage can or will be shot. Activated moving target timing and strategy can be "Figured Out" by simply videoing the activation then reviewing the footage. Getting to a major match at least 1 day early so you can do stage recon is the key to success. If the exact same stage designs, target presentations and start positions are being used in club matches and left standing to be reused for a major match then that is blatant cheating per the USPSA rules. I am not cool with that. But if things are being switched up for the major match I am fine with it because it will be a unique configuration for everyone at the major match.
  8. First stage meltdowns due to being nervous are primarily caused by people giving themselves too many first run mulligans in practice. If you don't put REAL pressure on yourself to perform solidly on your first run in practice then why would you expect a different result in a match? The next time you go out to practice, define a tangible penalty for not performing solidly on your very first run while giving it an honest effort at performing well. The "Tangible Penalty" will need to be something unique to you that serves as a real penalty for failing. Doing this should produce the same mental challenge you face in a match when you WANT to perform well and you THINK that performing in the match is somehow more important than doing it in practice. Here is an example that I had to use on myself as a Tangible Penalty. I was struggling with shooting too aggressive on medium distance target arrays and would have random misses in both practice and matches. I would bring $100 in $5 bills to the range with me and every time I had a miss, I would take $5 out of my wallet and put it in a jar. When I ran out of $5 bills, I forced myself to quit the practice session and go home. When I got home, I took the money from the jar and gave it to my wife to do with whatever she wanted. As my skills improved and my mikes got less, I increased the per mike "cost" from $5 each to $20 each while maintaining the $100 limit. When I ran out of money by racking up misses, I would force myself to end the practice session. Sometimes this would only be 20 - 30 minutes into the practice session which sucked after driving an hour one way to the range. The tangible penalty of every miss literally costing me money and ultimately it leading to the practice session being cut short was enough to make it a priority to stay on the sights and call my shots so I wouldn't have excessive misses all the time. If the "Tangible Penalty" for screwing up isn't punitive enough, then you will never fix your issues. How painful you need to make it depends on how stubborn you are.
  9. For most shooters burn out is a combination of unrealistic expectations mixed with an unsustainable participation level. Do yourself a favor and keep those two things in balance with one another.
  10. This past weekend was a bust from a Match and Live Fire practice perspective. We got hit with a cold front just before the weekend started and it continued through today. I got my Gallant Bullets in last week and needed to verify the velocity of the new load so I braved the cold on Saturday to chrono the new load. It was about 30 degrees and the wind was howling during this chrono session so all I did was run out there, setup the chrono, then shoot the test loads through it quickly. Once the 20 or so rounds were shot across the chrono then I packed it all up and hit the road. BURRRRRRRRR!!!! The good news is that I got the load figured out for new Gallant Bullets. I am using their 180gr 40 Caliber bullet with Prima SV powder at a 4.2gr drop and 1.165” OAL. This setup produced an average velocity of 945pfs which is good enough to make Major PF reliably. It also helps that the Gallant 180gr bullet weight averages about 182gr instead of 180gr. This will put me in the 171 power factor range where I like to be when traveling to major matches across the nation. Since I got the Gallant Bullet load figured out I loaded up 2500 rounds over the rest of the weekend since I couldn’t do any live fire training outdoors. Since I have been going reload crazy over the winter I have about 15K of 40 ammo loaded up at this point which is a really good stockpile to start the season off with. I am actually running out of places to store all of this loaded ammo so I might have to back off a little bit in reloading. That or just commit to loading another full 5 gallon bucket with the Gallant Bullets. If these crazy cold fronts keep us from shooting outdoors on the weekends I might just do that with all of the extra free time.
  11. I don't understand your comment. Do I have numbers on what? The time savings of using a Hundo Gauge over a single hole gauge? I am not going to waste any effort timing how long it takes to case gauge 100 rounds in a single hole case gauge then compare it to using a Hundo gauge just to spoon feed you a time savings data point. If you want to know the exact time savings then do the testing yourself.
  12. The time is saved by eliminating the repetitive hand movements needed to put a round in the case gauge then remove it. On a single round case gauge there are at least 2 hand movements and one physical or visual inspection per round. This is three steps per round. Step 1 - Put the round into the gauge. Step 2 - Physically or visually inspect the Go/No Go of the round within the gauge. Step 3 - Remove the round from the gauge. A 100 hole case gauge still requires the same 3 basic steps. But each step is done in batches of 100 rounds at a time. This produces 100 times less of the "Stop & Go" of using a single hole case gauge.
  13. If you haven't used a Hundred Hole Case Gauge then you won't understand the magnitude of time savings it produces. Using a Hundo case gauge will make you wonder why you wasted any time doing them one at a time in the past.
  14. Yep....... You are "Lucky" until your luck runs out.
  15. 40 caliber shooters need to accept the fact that there is no getting around the requirement of either push through or roll sizing the brass before you reload it. Once you start doing that the QC of your loaded ammo go way up and your malfunctions go way down when you shoot it. Yes its a pain in the ass to push through or roll size your 40 brass. But the extra effort is well worth the reward.
×
×
  • Create New...