Triggerslapper999 Posted June 13, 2022 Author Share Posted June 13, 2022 On 6/7/2022 at 6:59 PM, Philip Dedmon said: For Open Gun Gun Butter on Slide & Frame rails Gun Butter on Recoil Rod Gun Butter on Sear Pin, Hammer Pins, Barrel Link Pin & Safeties Gun Butter on Barrel locking Lugs & Barrel Hood Clenzoil Grease on Sear/Hammer hooks (just a dab) Clenziol Grease on Main Spring Clenziol Grease on Barrel Link Boss (just a dab) Clenziol Grease on Comp Sleeve Works for me but I have been told that I am a little weird I’ll have to check out gun butter. Thanks for the suggestion! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vgdvc Posted July 14, 2022 Share Posted July 14, 2022 FWIW Dave Dawson ,about 12 years ago,told me Dawson Precision uses FP-10 oil exclusively on their own Limited/Open pistols. Some have 70k + rounds with little appreciable wear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chgofirefighter Posted July 24, 2022 Share Posted July 24, 2022 Mobil 1 Synthetic oil~ DONE~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigboy69 Posted August 8, 2022 Share Posted August 8, 2022 Grease gets used on machine guns and loading presses Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jschreiber Posted December 11, 2022 Share Posted December 11, 2022 Oil only Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryan45kim Posted December 14, 2022 Share Posted December 14, 2022 Depends on the system and weather. Tight open gun, only oil. Loose Glock, 320, M&P I use grease. Weather below 20 only oil regardless of system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BritinUSA Posted December 14, 2022 Share Posted December 14, 2022 Same with my Walther in CO, I used Slide Glide in summer and BreakFree in winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drdre352 Posted December 14, 2022 Share Posted December 14, 2022 On 7/24/2022 at 1:50 AM, chgofirefighter said: Mobil 1 Synthetic oil~ DONE~ I heard this. Any specific weight… or doesnt matter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Posvar Posted December 14, 2022 Share Posted December 14, 2022 Oil for me. Especially in cold weather. The SSI Cudalube seems to work well in cold and hot conditions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kilrb Posted December 14, 2022 Share Posted December 14, 2022 8 hours ago, drdre352 said: I heard this. Any specific weight… or doesnt matter? I use don't use anything heavier than 20 wt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drdre352 Posted December 14, 2022 Share Posted December 14, 2022 3 hours ago, Kilrb said: I use don't use anything heavier than 20 wt So something like 5w20? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kilrb Posted December 14, 2022 Share Posted December 14, 2022 3 hours ago, drdre352 said: So something like 5w20? Yes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lightj75 Posted December 15, 2022 Share Posted December 15, 2022 I got a sample of gun butter at Area 6 this year and I've really liked it, so much I'm about to buy more. It holds up well even on high round count practice sessions. I use Mobil 5w20 on my xl750 the grease joints get Lucas red Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisstophere Posted December 16, 2022 Share Posted December 16, 2022 Anyone on this thread mark their brass and have it affect the oil's viscosity after a few stages? Has it ever caused a FTF/FTE? I use a thick red sharpie line on my brass for the best visibility in my environment and have found that after a few stages the marker dye is mixing with the oil causing the slide to slow down a bit. A few drops on the rails fixes it, but if I could find a better oil for my situation or a better way to mark brass that still allows it to be highly visible (thick lines vs thin line). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BritinUSA Posted December 16, 2022 Share Posted December 16, 2022 (edited) Never had this issue. Do you lube the cases before reloading, if so do you tumble the rounds afterwards to remove any excess ? Also, what oil are you using and where are you putting it ? Edited December 16, 2022 by BritinUSA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisstophere Posted December 16, 2022 Share Posted December 16, 2022 7 hours ago, BritinUSA said: Never had this issue. Do you lube the cases before reloading, if so do you tumble the rounds afterwards to remove any excess ? Also, what oil are you using and where are you putting it ? No lubing afterwards. The oil came with the pistol. It's some blue stuff. I'm going to give Lucas oil a try next match and see how things fair. I was just curious if anyone else here ran into that before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skeeter44 Posted December 19, 2022 Share Posted December 19, 2022 Y’all should give Gunbutter a try. The viscosity is perfect, it stays where you put it, and the lubricity is on par with anything out there. I encourage everyone to give it a shot at least Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHA-LEE Posted December 23, 2022 Share Posted December 23, 2022 I use Grease and Oil. Slide Glide Lite grease on all of the main parts (Slide, Barrel, Frame, Guide Rod, etc) then Lucas Extreme Duty Oil on the trigger parts (Sear, Hammer, Disconnector, etc). I use a tooth brush to apply a thin coating of Slide Glide Light on all of the main parts, then I add a few drops of Lucas Extreme Duty Oil to the frame rails and barrel hood. The Oil applied in these areas basically eliminates any "stickiness" on the moving parts regardless of range temp (10 deg F - 100 deg F). Yes, I am a freak who still goes out to shoot when the temperature is what most others would consider a "HARD PASS". The Slide Glide Lite serves as a good barrier between the burnt powder and metal which makes cleaning the gun very easy. I never have to dig at or scrape burnt powder off of the main parts. The only part that I need to scrape burnt powder off of is the extractor hook which is to be expected. Everything else comes clean by simply spraying CRC Electronic Connector Cleaner on it. I can fully disassemble, clean, inspect, lube and reassemble a 1911/2011 in about 20 minutes. In Open, the main advantage to this lubrication package is that there isn't a bunch of oil to get flung around as the slide cycles. This means no oil getting flung onto the glass of the red dot. It will also maintain proper lubrication for at least 1000 rounds on my Open gun and at least 2500 rounds on my Limited gun. Most "Motor Oils" will fling off or weep out of the gun well before 500 rounds. Motor Oil is also a very poor barrier against burnt powder residue. The Lubrication package you use should correlate to your Shooting vs Cleaning schedule. If you only shoot a few hundred rounds between cleans, then Motor Oil will get the job done. If you shoot thousands of rounds between cleans then a more robust lubrication package is needed like the combo I am using. I don't know about you guys but I would rather spend my time shooting guns vs cleaning them. So I use a robust lubrication package that allows me to do that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaX_1 Posted January 10, 2023 Share Posted January 10, 2023 Open Gun -> Oil only. I use Weapon Shield CLP, no issues, 10 stages straight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lacivilian Posted January 12, 2023 Share Posted January 12, 2023 On 12/23/2022 at 5:57 PM, CHA-LEE said: I use Grease and Oil. Slide Glide Lite grease on all of the main parts (Slide, Barrel, Frame, Guide Rod, etc) then Lucas Extreme Duty Oil on the trigger parts (Sear, Hammer, Disconnector, etc). I use a tooth brush to apply a thin coating of Slide Glide Light on all of the main parts, then I add a few drops of Lucas Extreme Duty Oil to the frame rails and barrel hood. The Oil applied in these areas basically eliminates any "stickiness" on the moving parts regardless of range temp (10 deg F - 100 deg F). Yes, I am a freak who still goes out to shoot when the temperature is what most others would consider a "HARD PASS". The Slide Glide Lite serves as a good barrier between the burnt powder and metal which makes cleaning the gun very easy. I never have to dig at or scrape burnt powder off of the main parts. The only part that I need to scrape burnt powder off of is the extractor hook which is to be expected. Everything else comes clean by simply spraying CRC Electronic Connector Cleaner on it. I can fully disassemble, clean, inspect, lube and reassemble a 1911/2011 in about 20 minutes. In Open, the main advantage to this lubrication package is that there isn't a bunch of oil to get flung around as the slide cycles. This means no oil getting flung onto the glass of the red dot. It will also maintain proper lubrication for at least 1000 rounds on my Open gun and at least 2500 rounds on my Limited gun. Most "Motor Oils" will fling off or weep out of the gun well before 500 rounds. Motor Oil is also a very poor barrier against burnt powder residue. The Lubrication package you use should correlate to your Shooting vs Cleaning schedule. If you only shoot a few hundred rounds between cleans, then Motor Oil will get the job done. If you shoot thousands of rounds between cleans then a more robust lubrication package is needed like the combo I am using. I don't know about you guys but I would rather spend my time shooting guns vs cleaning them. So I use a robust lubrication package that allows me to do that. This is how I oil/grease my open guns and have never had an issue. I have switched to Lucas red N tacky instead of Slide Glide Lite however. I also only shoot in sub 50degree temps maybe once a year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azshooter44 Posted March 15, 2023 Share Posted March 15, 2023 I use lightweight automotive oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racerkan Posted March 24, 2023 Share Posted March 24, 2023 I would use lighter weight oil on cooler weather and heavier weight oil on hotter weather Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaseyj5056 Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 Thick oil all day. If your 2011 can run on grease, its not tight enough Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
392heminut Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 1 hour ago, kaseyj5056 said: Thick oil all day. If your 2011 can run on grease, its not tight enough Yeah, maybe for a bullseye gun. For the kind of shooting we do I think the owner of this site would disagree! He has been selling a 'gun grease" for years. It's called "Slide Glide". I don't think the stuff would have stayed on the market for 20 years if it didn't work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boomstick303 Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 1 hour ago, kaseyj5056 said: Thick oil all day. If your 2011 can run on grease, its not tight enough Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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