Mark7 Evolution - Tuning & Troubleshooting

[slavex]

@Thetimb nice!

 

[Steyrarms]

On 6/29/2020 at 9:41 PM, Thetimb said:

So with the help of everyone here and some guidance from Mark7 I think its actually fixed. I haven't run any ammo through it due to time but it seems to be running 90x better. I had to realign the top plate and adjusted that bracket that the onboard primer collator bumper rides on. I also adjusted the index as well. 

 

https://imgur.com/gallery/gVrH59m

 

 

Well done, now she runs even better than my press

 

[Thetimb]

This made aligning the top plate super easy. M7 sells this on their website in the maintenance section.

 

https://imgur.com/a/m12TLET

[MikeyScuba]

Fixed the issue I was having with the primer orientation sensor.  Turns out the index was off and the plate was engaging the tab on the sensor. 

 

Over did the pawl to .085 -no good

Set it at .065 and all is good.

 

Now on to bulletsense.

[mioduz]

Does anyone anyone happen to have the files to 3d print steyrarms 9mm tool head stand??

 

I've messaged him but he hasn't read it yet, and thingiverse has an error on the 9mm tool head stand

Edited August 6, 2020 by mioduz

[cperazza]

Got a Mark 7 Revolution and couldn't be happier, but a few things I have noticed:

- Shell plate wouldn't move...primer plug out of synch.  Readjusted primer plug, everything in synch again. Issued solved.

- Bulletfeeder upside bullets, added a few more spacers...issue solved.

- Intermittent motor light...The white 6 Pin connector sparks when it moves.  I noticed the 6 Pin connector has been loose.

  -- M7 recommendation: It seems like you are arching at the 6 pin connector and this will cause electronics communication problems that will cause varied OAL’s, primer seating depths and bullet seat depths. We can usually resolve this with a cable replacement. Its usually just the 6 pin cable and the DC power cable that need replaced inside the console unit (black plastic box you plug everything into).  Issue fixed.

- Spilling powder when end of cycle at 2500/3000/3500 rpm... recommendations from M7, haven't applied it yet.

  -- See attached video to adjust the bumper support, the bracket should just barely kiss the wheel as it comes around: https://www.dropbox.com/s/yuw9jnvluoshg2v/bumpersupport.MOV?dl=0

  -- Then try the index of 1-5 and top dwell between 1-5.

 

Hope this helps...

 

[Clint007]

I have an Evolution Pro set up with the automated priming system. I'm currently using a resizing die, with the depriming assembly removed, as a 'back-up' die at Swage and Priming stations. So I'm running brass through a resizing die three times in a row. This does reduce the shellplate flex and has further reduced the primer seating variations I saw, even with the shellplate screwed down as tight as it could be consistent with being able to move by hand.

 

An engineer friend said the shellplate flexion was the issue, not the case, so why not use a Lee universal decapping die - with the decapper removed- screwed down OVER the brass so it prevents the shellplate flexion by physical contact on the shellplate. This will work the brass less and reduce the force (and clutch setting maybe) needed for the system.

 

I was a bit nervous about having that metal-on-metal action for thousands of cycles... but wondered if anyone else had a thought? Then I was envisioning some hard plastic piece for this contact around the brass. Anyone have a solution to this already so i don't have to think anymore?

Edit: I had used a Dillon swage back-up rod, but that worked by pressing on the bottom center of the inside case, and I found there was variation in that height by headstamp...So sometimes it'd trigger a clutch stop, and other times it would allow too much upward deflection of the brass. plus it was squashing down the sometimes curled up inside edges of the flash hole and I thought that might affect performance.

C

Edited August 18, 2020 by Clint007

[Allenmat]

I have an Evolution Pro and was interested in the flex of the shell plate/tool head.  I put a dial indicator on the tool head and have it indicating on the bottom press area next to the shell plate.  What I found was after calibration, I zeroed the dial indicator and it remained on "zero" running the press empty. As the shell plate was loaded with cartridges, the dial indicator progressively got "off zero" by about .025".  As I loaded ammo, it generally stayed at the -.025" from zero, with an occasional .008 variation.  So, I would not worry about metal to metal contact. After the first case hits the sizing station, you will be good. I plan on mounting the dial indicator on my friends Manual Evo to see if the results are the same. 

[MountainMan]

11 hours ago, Allenmat said:

I have an Evolution Pro and was interested in the flex of the shell plate/tool head.  I put a dial indicator on the tool head and have it indicating on the bottom press area next to the shell plate.  What I found was after calibration, I zeroed the dial indicator and it remained on "zero" running the press empty. As the shell plate was loaded with cartridges, the dial indicator progressively got "off zero" by about .025".  As I loaded ammo, it generally stayed at the -.025" from zero, with an occasional .008 variation.  So, I would not worry about metal to metal contact. After the first case hits the sizing station, you will be good. I plan on mounting the dial indicator on my friends Manual Evo to see if the results are the same. 

thank you. That’s reassuring. I can’t visualize who you measure this.... you are measuring deflection of the toolbars or the shell plate?

[MountainMan]

12 minutes ago, MountainMan said:

thank you. That’s reassuring. I can’t visualize who you measure this.... you are measuring deflection of the toolbars or the shell plate?

I have the same issue but can’t get consisten primer seating with using dies to hold down the shellplate . I’ve a new plate from Mark 7 coming.

[Allenmat]

Basically measuring toolhead flex/how a loaded shellplate affects total travel.  Dial indicator is mounted to toolhead and indicates on the lower press body.

[Baragasam]

Not sure if I should start a new thread for this but is anyone having issues with the mechanical powder measure rotary barrel screw? I do not use the powder measure station to flare 9mm or 223 cases and adjust the drop height to have some space between the adjuster (plunger assembly) and housing (main body). I've snapped 2 of the factory stainless steel bolts that connect the arm to the barrel during disassembly (not usage/reloading). The bolts snaps exactly between the threads and smooth shaft. I've since upgraded the bolts to grade 8s from my local hardware store and that eliminated the issue. I do not torque these bolts down, once they stop turning I snug it with a hex key (no "1/8ths extra turn" or anything like that). They also come loose often during reloading and I've had the powdery drum barrel arms come off as the screws back out. The first time this has happened on my pistol drum barrel Mark Vii replaced it for free but the second time this happened they wanted me to purchase a whole new rebuild kit for over $100. I'm attempting to extract the snapped bolt but it will be a tough job being that the screw is so deep and small. Aside from the previously mentioned weak points on the press such as the primer feed shuttle, this is another weak point of their mechanical powder measure. 

Edited November 2, 2020 by Baragasam

[MountainMan]

If the plunger doesn’t advance all the way, is the powder drop any less consistent ?

 

I haven’t had these bolts work loose.....

 

but now I will go double check.....carefully...

[Baragasam]

2 hours ago, MountainMan said:

If the plunger doesn’t advance all the way, is the powder drop any less consistent ?

 

I haven’t had these bolts work loose.....

 

but now I will go double check.....carefully...

 

I have adjusted the plunger assembly to have almost a quarter inch of space between the assembly and the housing. I always weigh my charges down to 0.01 grain consistency, so far no issues with the gap affecting the charge. The mechanical measure is actually very accurate in terms of powder charge especially for flake style powders (typical pistol or shotgun powders). Ball powder (rifle typically) is also very accurate but I've had deviations of as much as 0.3 grains for ball/rifle powder and about 0.02 grain difference for pistol/flake powders. 

 

I definitely recommend using grade 8 screws if you can find any and washers as spacers. The proprietary factory screws are garbage. 

[Sigarmsp226]

Baragasam - If I may ask can you tell me the exact bolt assembly you purchased at Lowes (Lowes part number or at least the bolt thread pitch and length)?  I ask so that I can go and purchase a couple of sets of these bolts now and change out my bolts when my EVO arrives next week....Thanks Mark

[MountainMan]

What scale measures to 0.01 grain? I have that gem pro I picked up at UniqueTek and I thought that was accurate....it goes to 0.02 graduations....

[Baragasam]

Just now, MountainMan said:

What scale measures to 0.01 grain? I have that gem pro I picked up at UniqueTek and I thought that was accurate....it goes to 0.02 graduations....

 

I use something like this

 

https://www.amazon.com/Homgeek-Milligram-Calibration-Tweezers-Weighing/dp/B071GYVQF3/ref=psdc_678508011_t1_B07X1R442K?th=1

 

You are correct, mine fluctuates at 0.02 grain as well. The powder measure rarely dropped with enough deviation to change more than 0.02 grains to show me that it has changed at all for the pistol powder. 

 

Some helpful tips I got were to weigh charges in a room that has little to no air draft, turn on the scale for several minutes (apparently there's a "warm up") and always calibrate the scale before usage (typically that's once a day for me or if I take pauses of hours in between). 

[Sigarmsp226]

On 4/15/2020 at 9:01 AM, BiknSwans said:

Bikn - Thanks Sir for posting this photo - I am about to give this a try as I am about to give up on getting 9mm to feed properly....

[BiknSwans]

26 minutes ago, Sigarmsp226 said:

Bikn - Thanks Sir for posting this photo - I am about to give this a try as I am about to give up on getting 9mm to feed properly....

 

You're more than welcome.  Mine is still working perfectly since I posted the picture and text.

[MountainMan]

Has anyone had the spring for the primer seating punch jam the rocker and fail to return the primer punch back down? If so is there a fix out there, a spring upgrade or something? 

 

Every so often the primer punch doesn't return fully, and I think it's the spring...it's compressed and stuck, and I push the primer punch back down and turn the spring 90 degrees or so and it'll work again for another 5k rounds until it happens again. I've removed and cleaned it, greased the rocker and the spring (but not so high that the grease can get on the primers) and this problem still occurs from time to time.

[Sigarmsp226]

Well I got my Hornady case feeder issues related to cases jamming up in the bowl fixed - After monkeying ( I was like a monkey playing with a golf tee) with the provided spring for at least 90 minutes trying to find that perfect spot - I figured it out with one phone call......I called Scheels and ordered me a Dillon case feeder...Now my case feeding issue will be solved when that package arrives in 4-5 days... Total cost will be minimal because once the Dillon arrives my New Hornady case feeder with plate will be placed in the classifieds for sale...

 

I look at it this way - My Dillon 650 has provided me 10 years of PERFECT case feeding service so if I am going to spend $3k on a loader that I intend to keep and use for many many years, I do not want this to be one of the things I have to worry about every time I turn it on to load.....

 

If you look at the Dillon case feeder design - They figured it out....The cut away the area on the case feeder bowl where case can get hung and replaced it with a piece of curved aluminum to narrow the gag between the case feeder wall and the revolving case plate - but the key to their unit working 100 percent of the time is they mounted this thin piece of aluminum on the OUTSIDE of the case feeder wall on the tall end thus eliminating the “pinch point” where the brass and whatever device you are using in this gap (spring or piece of tubing) does not exist.....Simple Smart Engineering IMO.....

Now to focus on getting my dies set up.....

[BiknSwans]

1 hour ago, Sigarmsp226 said:

Well I got my Hornady case feeder issues related to cases jamming up in the bowl fixed - After monkeying ( I was like a monkey playing with a golf tee) with the provided spring for at least 90 minutes trying to find that perfect spot - I figured it out with one phone call......I called Scheels and ordered me a Dillon case feeder

 

That's very interesting.  My buddy had been using Dillon case feeders for years, and has three at this point.  After he saw how well my Hornady case feeder worked, he's been looking to install springs like the Hornady on his Dillon case feeders.

 

I would have preferred the Dillon design myself, but the Hornady works perfectly for me.

 

You will love the Mark 7.  Be a little careful with the Mark 7 videos from 2018.  A few things have changed since then.

[MikeyScuba]

I hate the Dillon case feeders.  I suped one up to feed a roll sizer but it needs to be babysat.  It jamms up constantly.  The other feeds an automated 650 for processing only.  It jams up too leaving the press running with no brass.  
 

I saved up  my shot brass from the last 6 months and had it all processed and washed by yesterday (10 day job) -ready for roll sizing. So I decided to use the MA 14” feeder I got with my Mark7 a few months ago.  It wasn’t 100% smooth as I didn’t use the controller so it was simply ON. Probably should play with the hose routing as the cases were occasionally catching on where the aluminum mount houses the long coiled feeder spring.  But it wasn’t too bad and did allow me to leave and not baby sit it for 4 hours.

[Baragasam]

On 11/2/2020 at 6:42 PM, Sigarmsp226 said:

Baragasam - If I may ask can you tell me the exact bolt assembly you purchased at Lowes (Lowes part number or at least the bolt thread pitch and length)?  I ask so that I can go and purchase a couple of sets of these bolts now and change out my bolts when my EVO arrives next week....Thanks Mark

 

Hi! Apologies for the late reply. I took the existing bolts to Lowes to use on their thread finder board mounted on the shelves in the hardware aisle. I also got the longer option since there's no exact length match to the factory Mark 7 screws. You also want to get a bunch of flat washers to help everything stay flush. I also use just a tiny bit of blue loctite to hold everything together. Do not and I repeat do not use their factory screws, it's one of the most pain in the ass parts I've dealt with on this press and their customer service in taking care of this is truly lacking. 

[Baragasam]

I too have issues getting 9mm and 223 cases to feed 100% initially. I tried solving this issue on 9mm by vice clamping the factory 3D printed ramp to the bowl and adding the spring in front of the ramp. I still sometimes get 9mm cases stuck and will try drilling a piece of triangle metal into the bowl near the pinch point next year when I get back to it. 223 caliber's main issue is dropping into the feed tube consistently. I can seem to adjust the trap door perfectly to the point where it drops base down. Too far open and my cases sometimes doesn't drop quick enough and causes a jam at the trap door. Also, the amount being put into the case feeder bowl is very important. How much one puts into the bowl affects the collating speed which affects the case drop speed which requires the user to adjust the trap door. Keeping the limits on the amount of brass being fed into the bowl each time I find is also crucial. Honestly a poor design in case feeding which Mark 7 should recall.