Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Clint007

  • Rank
    Looks for Match
  • Birthday 09/23/1965

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Scottsdale, AZ
  • Real Name
    Scott Tannehill

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Cool, thanks. I’ll give this a try
  2. Thank you. I see he has the 1.0 slide and 1.0 slide lock lever atop the 2.0 frame. Is that what you meant...using a 1.0 lock and 1.0 frame to replicate the auto-forward? My 2.0 trigger job has the slide’s striker block mod more or less mated to matching frame mods....so I am restricted to using this 2.0 slide and this 2.0 frame. Even a different unmodified 2.0 slide doesn’t work right on this tuned 2.0 frame now. It’s one of Burwell’s test trigger jobs on a 2.0.....which I don’t think he is doing anymore... Or are you using a 2.0 slide and 2.0 frame with the modified 1.0 slide lock? Just so I know before I start filing the inside of that button.... Thanks again C
  3. Ok I actually had some time and swapped the parts...but I can’t get the slide fully on the frame now, with the 1.0 lock installed. This must be the needed file job? Could I beg some photos to guide me? c
  4. I finally got around to swapping out the factory recoil spring and tried a 13 pound spring. I recall hearing the factory is 17#? I have also 11# and 15# . With the 13# spring I noticed the gun shoots flatter, there is less oscillation at the end of the shot as the gun comes back down. I’ve put 1000 round thru and have no malfunctions, testing both slide lock reloads using the sling shot method and (faster but technically improper) pushing down on the slide lock button. But, I do notice that now with the lighter spring, if I do a press check, and release, the slide doesn’t return automatically forward fully into battery, I have to do a manual forward “assist” (Push on it with my thumb). How might I tell, however, if the slide is banging on the frame with this lighter spring, leading to cumulative damage? Thx clint
  5. But will it function normally otherwise...for example locking slide back on empty mag, and remaining open after manual lock back?
  6. Thank you. Another poster on the M&P forum shared the purchase option also. It is odd that Smith and Wes and refused to sell me one but aftermarket companies apparently are selling a factory original specimen. I’m happy to pay $20 to avoid having the gun gone for weeks-months. I never knew the slide locks were interchangeable between 1.0 and 2.0. I will try that. I do miss the auto forward feature. C
  7. Anyone have this happen? I’ve been shooting a comp-tuned 2.0 5 inch in IDPA for several years. Unlike the 1.0 the 2.0 does not auto forward for me. And so I used the slide lock button to drop the slide after a reload, for speed in competition. Not long ago my slide lock lever assembly cracked....very close to the place where the lock button actuates movement of the assembly. Looked like an intuitively weak part of the assembly, knowing where I put pressure down on the button during reloads. It’s my judgment that after LOTS of reloads this way, metal fatigue tools its toll. Yes, this is a faster reload. Yes, it’s not really designed for this function. Yes, if you do this many times, it’ll probably break. No idea when. My advice is to not do it for SD training because it’s a less reliable way (compared to sling shooting) to put the gun into battery. And because you will be weakening that part over time and it’ll break and your gun will probably do what mine did at that event...lock back open despite a full mag and not work thereafter. M&P does not sell this as an individual part. They refused to one-off sell me one when I explained the problem. Not real happy with the reply. It’s a simple part....They want the entire gun sent to them. Instead, for now, I have just swapped out that part from a 2.0 4.25” frame I have. It’s the same part. When I’m done with my competition goals with this 2.0 I’ll send the whole gun in and hopefully they can swap out a new part. They will probably charge me and say it was negligence on my part for using the slide lock button incorrectly. Clint in Scottsdale AZ
  8. I have an email from Rick from 2017 wherein he describes these as 4.5 mm in size. Clint
  9. JDillon, how many round/cycles do you have on your 1050? Feel your pain. I just finished troubleshooting a similar problem. The timing of the primer slide and the primer slide arm assembly was the culprit. In my case, with hundreds of thousands of rounds on the press, the Cam Guide Bolt 12486 had worn the metal down in the arm assembly channel (20488), Resulting in the slide not consistently being where it should be in the cycle, causing primers to not drop clean into the cup. It was especially problematic with fast operation. I replaced that upper assembly completely and the problem is resolved.The cam guide bolt was also worn flat on a portion of its circumference and I replaced that too.And yes, to all of you who are ready to point it out to me, I lube that very generously and frequently. I just have 350,000 rounds on the press, half of which were with a Mark7 auto drive. Every problem is amplified with high volume and high speed. Intermittent priming issues are very frustrating. Once you have done all of the usual corrective measures such as cleaning everything well, ensuring the primer bushing is flush with the bottom of the channel, replacing your primer tube tip, made sure the tab that holds the case is snug, etc, without resolution, it’s then usually a “timing” problem. When you pull the handle that primer slide cycles back-and-forth picking up and then inserting a primer into the case. If the slide does not go where it supposed to smoothly, without friction, and precisely, intermittent priming issues occur because the primer does not drop clean from the tube into the cup (hole) in the slide. If the primer is canted it will get crushed twisted etc, and often jam up against the shellplate under that plastic tab. If intact primers are also occasionally falling out the front or back, it’s almost assuredly a primer slide timing issue. Take everything apart and clean it and inspect all the metal parts for wear. It’s rare but if you have metal scraping abnormally you can damage that slide. I assume you have fully cleaned the press without resolution of the problem. other causes can be malpositioning of the Primer Slide Stop 13108...That’s that half round metal bolt that stops the slide from flying out the back of the press. It needs to stop at a very specific point. Make sure it is screwed in all the way. Make sure the primer upper assembly actuating arm that moves the primer slide is not dragging on the bottom of the primer slide channel. It’s supposed to be contacting the slide at that brass bearing (rubber vacuum hose if you have an old unit and haven’t upgraded) but not extending below the bottom of the slide. Also if you have an older unit with the vacuum hose in the slide, if it’s chewed up you should replace that. Better yet get the brass upgrade from Dillon. Make sure that the primer arm assembly is moving back-and-forth straight and is not twisted on it’s mounting (that aluminum block with the tightening screw) to the primer tube feed body 20773, and that the primer tube feed body is screwed down flat onto the press. some people have found that the primer arm/slide does not come forward properly with cycling and have added a bungee or surgical tubing to pull the slide forward towards the shell plate, crisply. I had that problem but it to was resolved by replacing the entire assembly. I think the springs in my assembly were simply worn out. That problem, is, however, more obvious because it typically causes the press to stop hard and painfully because the slide is not far enough forward for the alignment pin on the tool head to enter the proper hole in the slide which positions the primer precisely for insertion into the case. The Pin instead slams into a solid part of the primer slide. And a slight mis-timing of the primer slide is very commonly going to cause just 1-2% problems. Yes it could be the brass but that is fairly easy to rule out.... Hope this helps. c
  10. Good. Hope that fixes your issue. Since the replacement of this part a couple days ago, my recent systematic priming problem in 1-2% of the cases has resolved. I've done about 1000 rounds since then. This replacement was the only thing I've done since the last demonstration of the problem, so I'm optimistic it will be a durable fix for the isuse. C
  11. I just wanted to share an issue I had with my Mark 7 Autodrive on my 1050. It's technically a Dillon issue I guess but I think more relevant to Mark 7 users. A few months ago, about 100k rounds into my Mark 7 use (and about 250k rounds total on the 1050), I started having 1-2% of cases go unprimed. The primers would spill out the back or jam up against the shellplate. I did all the usual troubleshooting, including calling Dillon several times. Then I took my primer bracket arm assembly in, and discovered there was substantial wear on the metal channel that guides (or times) the primer slide process. Left is the used part, right is the new part. I've replaced this and wanted to share this with others that might be having hard-to-diagnose priming issues. I honestly don't know if this wear pattern is abnormal or not for this volume, but I'm sure the automation enhances such wear. I lube that pin that slides in this channel liberally, so lack of lube isn't the reason. Regards C
  12. I'm 8 years into a 1050, and 3 with a Mark 7 on it. I have over 250k rounds on this press now. I strongly suggest you run the 1050 by hand for 5-10k rounds first to break it in. They are temperamental sometimes, and you'll learn the nuances easier by 'feel' that way. Read the 1050 manual operation and troubleshooting sections. Every jam is unique but typically consistent, and every problem is magnified with automation and speed. There will be something every 5-10k, sometimes it's frustrating, but everything works out eventually. And as with many things in life, everything is better with proper lubrication. C
  13. I've had this happen too, with Mark 7 automation. I assumed years of high speed and the occasional jam just wore on the threads making them sloppy. Loctite worked. also suggest inspecting the entire assembly in this linkage: the tappet, the rocker arm, and the primer punch and primer punch bushing to make sure they appear in good condition, because all of these share the load of this part of the process. But if you just changed over to 9mm from .38 I assume your parts are relatively new.... C
  • Create New...