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About Clint007

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    Looks for Range
  • Birthday 09/23/1965

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    Scottsdale, AZ
  • Real Name
    Scott Tannehill

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  1. I'm 8 years into a 1050, and 3 with a Mark 7 on it. I have over 250k rounds on this press now. I strongly suggest you run the 1050 by hand for 5-10k rounds first to break it in. They are temperamental sometimes, and you'll learn the nuances easier by 'feel' that way. Read the 1050 manual operation and troubleshooting sections. Every jam is unique but typically consistent, and every problem is magnified with automation and speed. There will be something every 5-10k, sometimes it's frustrating, but everything works out eventually. And as with many things in life, everything is better with proper lubrication. C
  2. I've had this happen too, with Mark 7 automation. I assumed years of high speed and the occasional jam just wore on the threads making them sloppy. Loctite worked. also suggest inspecting the entire assembly in this linkage: the tappet, the rocker arm, and the primer punch and primer punch bushing to make sure they appear in good condition, because all of these share the load of this part of the process. But if you just changed over to 9mm from .38 I assume your parts are relatively new.... C
  3. I've had a Mark 7 1050 PRO since 2016. I have depriming sensor, swage sense, and bullet sense. I have an RF100 primer filler. I was wondering if the current EVO is more or less temperamental than my current set up. I don't know if I'm an outlier with things, but it's rare than I can load more than 500 rounds without sometime happening that takes anywhere from 5 sec to 15 min to fix. I've probably got 125-150k rounds through this set up. Things that happen include cases getting hung up as they enter the shellplate, upside down cases jamming the shellplate between station 1-2, primers getting jammed in the primer slide station, the snap ring on the Dillon depriming die breaking or the primer pin bending on a titled case or debris in a case, primers getting 'stuck' in the tube and I don't realize it until I see powder on the shellplate, etc. I just installed the emi filter kit and hope this will stop the sudden re-boot of the tablet which is a pain, also. Basically I'm happy with this machine, but I was wondering how much genuine improvement an EVO will make over my current process. I'd buy the EVO manual press and the conversion kit etc to use my current autodrive, so it's be ~$4k total now (in addition to the ~$3k I spent in 2016 plus the sensors as they became available). I just don't know if the improvements warrant that. And how much time does it take to change calibers (pistols only...9mm to 45 ACP etc)? Clint
  4. I run my MBF on my Mark7-1050 pro at 1/2-2/3 speed, it keeps up easily to a speed of 2200/hr loading 124 plated round nose. (Speed set a 2400 but with a dwell pause resulting in 2200 or so ‘real’ speed.) maybe post a video of your MBF I]running.....that might help explore what’s happening.... C
  5. Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean they aren't out to get me... Yeah they emailed me and apologized, this was an automated feature related to, I gather, their website changes. Never should have gotten that email afterall...still a let down! Impressed they emailed over the weekend. Solid company, good guys. Probably suffering from quick and a bit overwhelming success...well, hopefully the Evo will be available soon, and not too much more $.... C
  6. I have a 1050 PRO and enjoy it greatly. I decided to order an Evolution and use their conversion kit to attach my current Autodrive. I t hen discovered the Evolution was back-ordered. I was invited to go on a waitlist. I recently received an email saying it was back in stock, and I went online and couldn't order an Evo machine alone (without an autodrive). I contacted them and they informed me that they were no longer selling the Evo but expected to offer it again soon at a different price. So that was just a bit irksome to me. But I guess we'll see what happens in a few months. Probably a price hike, since they are obviously in demand. C
  7. What’s the first part(s) of your hand that contacts the magazine/carrier during a reload? ive tried to study video of pros, but there are actually limited numbers of videos with good slow speed visualization of this process. Bob Vogel is one with a good view of his technique.... For years now, I have swept the cover and dropped the base of my palm atop the base pad of the magazine to initiate the ‘pull’. lack of consistency despite much practice with this technique led me to try a different technique. instead I am experimenting with an inside cover sweep and starting the reload by putting my index fringe onto the side of the magazine such that my index tip is actually on the carrier side, followed quickly with thumb and fingers 4-5 wrapping around the base of the magazine as I pull it up and out. i know there are many styles and pros/cons....but what do you do, and what thoughts do you have on those techniques? c
  8. Here's my data with BE86 using a 124 gr plated round nose from Berrys, all in fps. All new starline brass with WIN SPP. 1.115" Ran Mark 7 at 2100 per hour, with bottom dwell of 1, index speed no reduction. I use the little rubber discs on the locator pins to reduce wobble, so there is no spillage influencing these figures, and I cleaned and watched each round. This is WITH a return spring on the powder bar. I did NOT weigh all these drops, however. I just loaded and chrono'd with my LabRadar. 16 shots max 1079 min 1015 ES 64 Average 1048 SD 20 What kind of ES and SD are folks seeing with pistol ammo loading at 'higher' speeds on their mark 7? Anyone notice any variations with SD and ES based on Mark 7 speed, bottom dwell, etc? I have noticed that if the system sits still for awhile (meaning more than a few minutes) the next charge is often higher than it is during continuous run. I assumed it was because powder was settling in the bar from the hopper, and that was the reason I added the return spring, to see if that 'snap' back would maximally settle the powder to reduce this variation. C
  9. I’ve noticed this variation with Titegroup, N320, 231, and BE86 so far. I assume this correlated with my high SD on chrono.... i just did a disassembly- clean- reassemble. And added a spring to help snap back the powder bar a bit....several posts on that little mod on a few forums... will be checking results tomorrow with weighing charges and then chrono...
  10. Anyone have experience with how their Mark 7 use impacts the consistency of your powder charges? I’m doing pistol loads and wondered if others had identified relationships between this and the various settings (bottom and top dwell, rate, index speed, etc). I’m seeing a bit more variation recently and am working on things independent of the Mark 7 (adding a powder bar return spring system). But wondered if there were known Mark 7 aspects... C
  11. The IDPA tech site itself states that things on that website are NOT official. Until it makes it into the official IDPA.com and ass'd rule book. The tech does lead the idpa.com a lot but dont' start running matches based on idpa.tech info that isn't official on idpa.com yet. That's how I read this. But I''m just a grunt... http://www.idpa.tech/idpa-would-like-to-address-some-confusion/ C
  12. I was just thinking that...I added a mark 7 to my 1050 shortly after it was available, and I love it. Dillon has a great product and great support...but...Mark 7 is a threat because they are more innovative (and risk, admittedly) and 'modern'. Now they are not enhancing Dillon but supplanting them. It'll be fun to watch... C
  13. For 2018 nationals what is the time frame to accrue points? C
  14. ‘I didn’t realize I could add Apex parts without their trigger. So it will improve the trigger but still look stock? c
  15. Looking for recommendations To give me a light crisp and short reset comp trigger job for a 2.0 M&P. Has to look stock for IDPA SSP. I did recently confirm that Dan Burwell is NOT currently taking 2.0s for trigger work. I have his trigger on an M&P (1.0) and it’s terrific but I need to find another artist for the 2.0 the stock 2.0 is very nice, I will admit. But I’m used to very light and tight triggers for competition. any recommendations would be welcome. It would be nice to find someone who has proven success with a 2.0 comp-level trigger. I have one 2.0 I had to take back to stock after a failed trigger job by a local gunsmith whose proclamations of skill didn’t pan out. thank you C
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