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mioduz

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About mioduz

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    Finally read the FAQs

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    chris miodus
  1. To those of you recommending outsourcing my case prep: From my research I will be paying in the neighborhood of 45 per 1k for brass prep + freight if necessary. Wouldn't the investment in a 1050 be a better use of funds (assuming I'm willing to put the work in). At the end the cost appears to be the same and I'm left with a new press. Just speaking out load and.looking for feedback
  2. Working on that as we speak. There is a local with an autodrive 1050 seeing what he would charge to just prep the brass. May be my best bet
  3. Let me ask you why would i need 2 1050's. Wouldnt just one for deswaging and brass prep do the trick (if no automation is elected) I should have said in the orginal post that I am in no hurry to do this tomorrow. I hope to set up the equipment necessary and load what ever i can over winter. I want to work in an efficient manner that makes sense. Probably going to stay away from automating as thats not in the budget at moment but open to it in the future.
  4. Haven't been actively reloading in about 2 years due to.....life. during the pandemic sold a few thousand of my commercially loaded ammo stash because some people wanted my ammo more than they wanted their hard earned dollars. I was going to rebuy, when I realised I should take a look at what I have on hand in terms of reloading. I have 50k small rifle primers here. So I am going to reload some 556. I currently have 2 650 xl with case feeders and a super swager. If you where going to take on this task how would you do it?? My biggest concerns are trimming and swaging (not sure if this is accurate). should I bite the bullet and buy the 1050/1100?? Or swage on 650 with a swage it attachment??? rt1500 power trimmer???? Any advice is appreciated
  5. I think i may have found the critical dimension. Center of Pin to sear face .4045 +0/-.003 Is this best practice for determining sear "life" remaining
  6. In the process of bettering a previously fit sear, my results are not getting me where i would like to be. I fear too much material has been removed to go any furthor with this part. Is there a standard measurement that can determine if the sear is now just too short
  7. Hopping I am not regretting my decision to ditch my hornady LNL for the dillon 650 New setup for 38 Super. Using the 9mm/38 Super Caliber Conversion. About half of my brass (mixed brands) will not feed past the Brass buttons. It seams to be too large. I double check all to make sure they where not Super Comp Brass. Any advice here??? Most of the time with a good bit of force I can push it past the bind up with the pin, Few times it locked up pretty solid. I measured the rim of the cases. They where all around .400 +/- .002
  8. SOLUTION Problem was the trigger over travel backed its way out. When the Disconnect moved down as the slide cylcled backward, the trigger moved back furthor, and somehow jammed up the disconnect.
  9. I have built several guns before but can't get past this issue on this gun. Its a 1911 Single stack 9mm with a Bull Barrel from KKM, STI Frame, STI Slide, Most of the fire control is STI as well, using a Wilson Combat Mag. Problem: With slow deliberate fire where I hold the trigger back through recoil the gun fails to feed nearly 100% of the time. The majority of the time the round is still left in the mag, sometimes it makes it up the ramp and into the chamber a bit, but never fully. If I fire quickly as in shooting "double taps" drills there is no feed issue (shot 50 rnds flawlessly). My inclination is the the disconnect is the problem. I have polished the the trigger bow, flat on triggerbow side of disconnect, flat on disconnect that contacts sear spring, and the top of the disconnect that rides against the slide. All polished to mirror shine. And a light oil on reassembly. Any other advice???
  10. I have a design idea for an open gun I want to try out but I am concerned with removing too much material off the sides of the slide. Ideally I want to remove about .015 of material on each side of the slide, along the entire length. I am not intending to to go all the way down to the rails, and I planned on leaving the bottom .250 at the original dimension. My primary concern is around the chamber and ejection port where the material is thinnest. Has any taken material out of these areas? If my description of what is intended is not clear let me know and ill draw a picture.
  11. I shoot a match locally in the winter where they have set up multiple knock down rubber targets. The rubber is approx 3/8 inch thick. I am sure its recycled from some industrial purpose. Some of the plates have doubled up rubber. They have all sorts of plate racks and a Texas star as well. All in all its quite impressive and gives great practice for those of us who live in the snow belt. The only downside is that sometimes the bullets pass straight through and don't knock the plate down. This is mainly observed using rifles due to the increased velocity Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2
  12. Thanks i did that and i will try to get to the range to test out before the next match Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
  13. I think its time to change your extractor and ejector Figured as much. I was thinking about trying an aftec extractor but they are super/super comp specific. Anyone have luck running one with both types of brass Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
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