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What's the best trigger for Gen 5 Glock 17?


DB_Cooper

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43 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:

Minus connector, trigger spring, and a whole lot of practice.

 

Talk to your B class locals and you’ll get a litany of $200 triggerjob options. Talk to the GMs, and they’ll recommend $30 in parts, and practicing with it 30 minutes per day.

 

Might add a 4.5# striker spring at the most, then lots of dry and live fire, the trigger will keep getting better the more you shoot.

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Wolff Reduced Power safety plunger spring 
Wolff 4.5# striker spring 
DIY set screw installation in trigger housing to reduce pretravel (this requires clipping the tab on the factory trigger safety to retain drop safety- I don't recommend doing this unless you know what you're doing, because defeating one of the safeties in the system is bad, m'kay?) 
TTI connector 
careful polish job on internals, STAY AWAY FROM THE SEAR ENGAGEMENT (striker lug and cruciform)

 

 

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Hey! I'm a B class local!

 

No $200 trigger though. Ghost EVO connector, 4.5# striker spring, and reduced power safety plunger spring. I'm very happy with this. A guy in my club recently let me feel his 34 with a new Vogel trigger. I let him feel mine (trigger) after and his face showed which he liked best. (Of course my set up has lots and lots of live and dry fire which likely helps...) 

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10 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

Minus connector, trigger spring, and a whole lot of practice.

 

Talk to your B class locals and you’ll get a litany of $200 triggerjob options. Talk to the GMs, and they’ll recommend $30 in parts, and practicing with it 30 minutes per day.

 

This really goes for a lot of non-glocks too!   

 

 

I say this everytime I talk about Glock triggers. Each Glock is different. Just like all guns but I think it's more so with Glocks. Take a magic trigger from whoever and drop it in two different glocks. They'll feel different. I personally buy a reduced power plunger spring, a 4lb or 4.5lb striker spring. I leave the trigger return spring alone. A connector of choice. Polish the right parts. Don't polish the wrong parts. Also, look for any areas in the frame that are going to cause drag. For instance the part on the back rear of the frame. The trigger bar rides between the housing and that part. Run a Q-tip along the vertical ribs.  If it snags you got burrs. You can use an X-acto knife to trim that area.  Not sure if gen 5 has those. Haven't seen one yet. 

 

point is, you can spend a lot of money!  I have. You may not like it any more than a home trigger job.  

Edited by B_RAD
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Ok, highly recommend Johnny Glock’s Competition Triggers. My buddies and I can’t  believe how close they come to mimicking a 1911’s break. Because of my lack of mechanical skill, I ran into a problem with one of the 4 triggers I changed and within an hour or so he returned my call and personally helped me out.  He has a ton of instructional videos on you tube also. You will not regret purchasing one!

PS

     For the best result, also buy his modified striker. 

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I’ve had a Vanek drop in for about 8 years and really like it. I’ve tried a few of the others mentioned above but didn’t care for them. I don’t understand why everyone wants to mimic a 1911 trigger in their Glocks. I like the Glock trigger. But that’s just me. Everyone’s idea of the “best” trigger varies, and they are all right.

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Mine are both drop-in kits.  I believe DK is the first one that installed allen screws on the trigger itself—for both pre-travel & over-travel.  So the break is cleaner.  During that time, johnny  glock was still using an allen screw in the ejector-housing for the over-travel; and now, he’ll probably do what you request on the trigger.  So, the quality/feel would probably the same.

 

if you really want to see a big-difference; you should compare any of the mentioned trigger kit to a flat trigger.

 

 

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