RIA VR80 coming in 2019

[AverageJoeShooting]

43 minutes ago, outerlimits said:

because no one wants to remove the comp every time you need to change a choke at a match.

Umm..just stick with modified. Sure you wont have a huge spread up close but that means taking like a few extra shots. I legit havent changed from the modified choke since it came out and I've never had any issue in matches 

[AverageJoeShooting]

44 minutes ago, outerlimits said:

because no one wants to remove the comp every time you need to change a choke at a match.

And frankly theres one brake on the market that can do that and it's the taccom one that is not that good at breaking the recoil 

[Underwood]

I also only u mod choke.. 

[Jaskajokunen]

I'm having some talks with our national supplier for Derya here in Finland about ordering me a new barrel and parts related for 2021 season.

After about 7k rounds the chroming or some other surface coating has started to chip away from the barrel where the gasses flow.

 

I had the idea last night that might as well order up a shorter barrel. I have scrounged the internet for information on the effects of barrel length on a shotgun but with little luck.

Most of the topics revolve around 20"-28" barrels. Barrels that could be available for me are 14" and 16".

I suppose the 16" barrel would be the safest choice.

 

I'm mainly concerned that i would not fulfill the PF requirements in IPSC shooting. My main competition ammo for birdshot is 28g (1oz i believe in American). Second thing would be the shot patterns with birdshot/buckshot and accuracy with slugs to 100m (about 110yd).

 

Also my competition rifle has a 16" barrel so that would bring some uniformity to grip lengths and handling.

 

Does anyone here have any hands on experience with shorter shotgun barrels?

 

Pictures of shotguns with 14" and 16" barrels that i'm trying to get the barrels from below.

Edited March 11, 2020 by Jaskajokunen
Grammar part2

[AverageJoeShooting]

14 minutes ago, Jaskajokunen said:

I'm having some talks with our national supplier for Derya here in Finland about ordering me a new barrel and parts related for 2021 season.

After about 7k rounds the chroming or some other surface coating has started to chip away from the barrel where the gasses flow.

 

I had the idea last night that might as well order up a shorter barrel. I have scrounged the internet for information on the effects of barrel length on a shotgun but with little luck.

Most of the topics revolve around 20"-28" barrels. Barrels that could be available for me are 14" and 16".

I suppose the 16" barrel would be the safest choice.

 

I'm mainly concerned that i would not fulfill the PF requirements in IPSC shooting. My main competition ammo for birdshot is 28g (1oz i believe in American). Second thing would be the shot patterns with birdshot/buckshot and accuracy with slugs to 100m (about 110yd).

 

Also my competition rifle has a 16" barrel so that would bring some uniformity to grip lengths and handling.

 

Does anyone here have any hands on experience with shorter shotgun barrels?

 

Pictures of shotguns with 14" and 16" barrels that i'm trying to get the barrels from below.

All I know Is that shorter barrel means less distance for the gas to dissipate from which means more recoil 

[Jaskajokunen]

2 minutes ago, AverageJoeShooting said:

All I know Is that shorter barrel means less distance for the gas to dissipate from which means more recoil 

 

Not a major issue. Of course i will port the barrel and place my brake to the end of the muzzle.

More gasses with higher velocities for the brake to work with = profit?

[AverageJoeShooting]

15 minutes ago, Jaskajokunen said:

 

Not a major issue. Of course i will port the barrel and place my brake to the end of the muzzle.

More gasses with higher velocities for the brake to work with = profit?

I guess. V6 is supposed to be coming out with a mid barrel break at some point. I imagine that would make then chop the barrel down 

[Jaskajokunen]

Just now, AverageJoeShooting said:

I guess. V6 is supposed to be coming out with a mid barrel break at some point. I imagine that would make then chop the barrel down 

 

Mid barrel comp works better with longer barrel shotguns then a muzzlebrake because of the gas pressure differential in different parts of the barrel.

Using both to capture all the gas available is not wrong in my opinion.

I have my own mid barrel comp that works well, but i will probably redesign it according to the barrel area i have to work with.

[Nelsonh]

 
Mid barrel comp works better with longer barrel shotguns then a muzzlebrake because of the gas pressure differential in different parts of the barrel.
Using both to capture all the gas available is not wrong in my opinion.
I have my own mid barrel comp that works well, but i will probably redesign it according to the barrel area i have to work with.

What size holes do you use for porting? And how many?
Does it cause any issues with the plastic wadding?

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk

[Jaskajokunen]

9 minutes ago, Nelsonh said:

What size holes do you use for porting? And how many?
Does it cause any issues with the plastic wadding?

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk
 

 

Picture below. Measurements in millimeters.

I haven't seen any plastic residue inside the comp or the ports if that's what you mean.

 

I have to make up my mind but at the moment I'm thinking about bigger but fewer holes in a different configuration.

[Underwood]

[outerlimits]

5 hours ago, AverageJoeShooting said:

Umm..just stick with modified. Sure you wont have a huge spread up close but that means taking like a few extra shots. I legit havent changed from the modified choke since it came out and I've never had any issue in matches 

you need to shoot some different flavored 3 gun!  we change all the time.  try shooting some flite control buck out of a mod comp...you'll love the pattern.  or door breach stick at 15'.  y'all don't shoot clays from toasters much, do ya?  

Edited March 11, 2020 by outerlimits

[Nelsonh]

Has anybody found pouches that will hold the 20 round drums?

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk

[Nolan]

On 3/10/2020 at 10:00 PM, matteekay said:

Boy howdy, I'm late to this party. I just picked up a VR80 (also my first semi-auto shotgun) and I'm looking for a little guidance on:

 

• Break-in procedure
• Cleaning
• Ammo preferences
• When to use the "heavy load" vs "light load" gas ring

 

The manual is a little... wanting.

 

Is there a good "starter" thread for these guns? I'm sure there's a ton of info here but it's a little hard to extract from 59 pages and counting. Thanks!

 

The short answer for breaking in a new VR80.

Completely break it down and clean ALL of the shipping goop off of evertything.

While it's apart

deburr and ream the gas ports to .112" diameter.  I think most of the break in process most people have to go through is burning away all the burrs and junk in the gas ports.

check the extractor fit.  Mine would not hold the case rim while hand cycling the action.  The shell would just fall off the extractor before it got to the ejector.  I got a spare from Advanced Tactical and filed the inside pad until it would actually touch the rim of the shell.  

Polish and break the sharp edges of the lower receiver feed ramp with a Cratex pointed bit.

Carefully polish and break the sharp edges around the extractor cut in the barrel with the Cratex bit, but don't get too aggressive.

Lube the action slides and moving bolt surfaces with a light gun oil like Lucas red or Mobil One.

Zero lube on any part of the gas system.  Use the Light piston.

 

Go shoot a couple boxes of heavy trap loads, anything one ounce and 1/8th over 1300 fps, and under 1450 fps.  That should be all the break in necessary.

 

Nolan

[AverageJoeShooting]

8 minutes ago, Nolan said:

 

The short answer for breaking in a new VR80.

Completely break it down and clean ALL of the shipping goop off of evertything.

While it's apart

deburr and ream the gas ports to .112" diameter.  I think most of the break in process most people have to go through is burning away all the burrs and junk in the gas ports.

check the extractor fit.  Mine would not hold the case rim while hand cycling the action.  The shell would just fall off the extractor before it got to the ejector.  I got a spare from Advanced Tactical and filed the inside pad until it would actually touch the rim of the shell.  

Polish and break the sharp edges of the lower receiver feed ramp with a Cratex pointed bit.

Carefully polish and break the sharp edges around the extractor cut in the barrel with the Cratex bit, but don't get too aggressive.

Lube the action slides and moving bolt surfaces with a light gun oil like Lucas red or Mobil One.

Zero lube on any part of the gas system.  Use the Light piston.

 

Go shoot a couple boxes of heavy trap loads, anything one ounce and 1/8th over 1300 fps, and under 1450 fps.  That should be all the break in necessary.

 

Nolan

When I first got mine I just shot 500 1600 fps slugs through it lol

That was back before they came with fancy pistons tho....

[matteekay]

On 3/11/2020 at 10:16 AM, Nelsonh said:

{snip}
 

 

14 minutes ago, Nolan said:

 

{snip}

 

 

This is awesome information. Thank you both!

[Weilme]

Mine eats win AA 1 1/8oz 1300 fps reliably, still messing around with the gas and buffer systems to run the lower velocity stuff, but for now it's the AAs

[meeesterpaul]

If opening up the gas ports lets lighter loads run reliably that seem good but if it's allowing more recoil to occur it defeats the purpose. I'm going to stay with stock ports (mine are .105) and chrono different loads. I'll try with and without the buffer and perhaps a less cushioned stock as well. I expect porting the barrel will be a good effect and I'll compare that before/after on the chrono and damaged rotator cuff. 

 

[Weilme]

I opened my gas ports from .106 to .111 and did not feel a difference in recoil or see a difference in reliability. We ran it in a local match a couple weekends ago and I think it had one maybe two malfunction so i think I'll run it a few more matches how it is and see if it will run the lower velocity after that. 

[outerlimits]

4 minutes ago, Weilme said:

I opened my gas ports from .106 to .111 and did not feel a difference in recoil or see a difference in reliability. We ran it in a local match a couple weekends ago and I think it had one maybe two malfunction so i think I'll run it a few more matches how it is and see if it will run the lower velocity after that. 

That’s nothing.  Mine are drilled to .132

[Weilme]

7 minutes ago, outerlimits said:

That’s nothing.  Mine are drilled to .132

Did you notice any difference in felt recoil? I actually bought all the bits to step up to a number 29 but stopped after the first one. It's a little unnerving taking a drill bit to a new gun that there is not a whole lot of parts available for.

[Underwood]

1 hour ago, outerlimits said:

That’s nothing.  Mine are drilled to .132

mine are about that

.135

no noticable difference in felt recoil just runs damn near anything i feed it..

its runs the 1oz stuff and Walmart federals all day long.. 

Edited March 14, 2020 by Underwood

[hump]

15 hours ago, Underwood said:

mine are about that

.135

no noticable difference in felt recoil just runs damn near anything i feed it..

its runs the 1oz stuff and Walmart federals all day long.. 

I agree. If your worried about recoil you don't need a 12ga shotgun. A gas operated shotgun doesn't have a lot of recoil to start with. 

[matteekay]

I've been a good(?) little boy and read through the whole thread! A few quick follow-up questions:

• What's been more popular for opening up the gas ports - #32 drill bit (.116) or #29 (.136)? Is there any fear of going too big?
• It looks like most people regard the perpetually unavailable Advanced Tactical long compensator as the most effective. Has anyone used their medium version? It's actually in stock, but the porting looks wildly different. I guess the Grizzly Gunworks one is the only other option.

 

Thanks again for the wealth of information!

[Ming the Merciless]

17 hours ago, matteekay said:

I've been a good(?) little boy and read through the whole thread! A few quick follow-up questions:

• What's been more popular for opening up the gas ports - #32 drill bit (.116) or #29 (.136)? Is there any fear of going too big?
• It looks like most people regard the perpetually unavailable Advanced Tactical long compensator as the most effective. Has anyone used their medium version? It's actually in stock, but the porting looks wildly different. I guess the Grizzly Gunworks one is the only other option.

 

Thanks again for the wealth of information!

 

Start small and see if it works.  You can always go bigger, harder to make a hole smaller.  

Taccom makes a good muzzle brake, it's in stock, you can change the choke without removing the brake and it's less than half the price of the Grizzly.

https://taccom3g.com/product/vr80-ulw-brake/