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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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Everything posted by matteekay

  1. In case anyone missed it, they're predicting a round count of 470. I'm bringing 700 because I suck (600 shipped, 100 with the guns). In case you need the shipping address... “Your Name” c/o Universal Shooting Academy USPSA Nationals 4330 Hwy. 630 East Frostproof, FL 33843 UPS and FedEx Ground look to be the only options for sending ammo. UPS requires you to go to a customer center and not a UPS Store (or other third party). UPS will also pick up hazmat as part of a regular route, though I believe that you can't request a pickup. Get chummy with your local gun store!
  2. I just converted it to 1/16 and ran a roll pin through. I might see if I can flare the ends a little, too (old school hammer nose style). Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk
  3. Exactly. I run Rhino's in ESR and ICORE - I'd absolutely get a snubnose version for BUG-R, but I'm not messing with downloading to 5 rounds.
  4. Ah, right, forgot about that blanket coverage. Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk
  5. I think the real question is - could you run .38 Short Colt? It IS a .38 or larger case It's NOT (technically) trimmed as it's a production cartridge (currently made by Fiocchi and Remington, historically made by others)
  6. Impossible to run without a moonclip, though. Brass wouldn't eject without the clip, and you'd have to reload individual rounds as there's no such thing as a 9mm revolver speedloader (as far as I know).
  7. Thanks! My sight keeps working its way loose so I think I might drill it for the bigger pin and be done with it.
  8. Possibly a dumb question, but for those of you who have switched over to a 1/16" roll pin - do you need to open up the cross pin holes in the barrel, as well? Or are they already oversized?
  9. Totally true. If I may throw out one more personal anecdote from dry fire, though - I'm finding that my first two shots are less accurate because my finger hasn't settled onto the trigger in the same position it winds up in for shots 3-8 (which tend to be more accurate). I'm trying to correct this by just working the last steps of my draw, focusing on pushing the gun forward and sliding my trigger finger into place.
  10. Those are all super helpful! This one is somewhat perplexing/alarming: Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk
  11. Actually, no specific concerns. Before shooting IRC out in Mesquite I was warned of the winds and the dust and I didn't know if Frostproof had any issues like that. Even hearing that it's the middle of nowhere is helpful - I'll stock up on supplies before driving in. Lucky me, I'm staying up near Orlando because kids + Florida = Disney. It's gonna be a haul. Hot and humid? In Florida?! Surely you jest. Ah, bummer. We had that at the IDPA state championship this year and it was really weird - I expected to see my hits shining through the targets ("The Quick and the Dead"-style) but instead it was just blinding, lol.
  12. First time shooting out at Frostproof. Anything specific to consider? I've been working on condensing how much I carry at matches in preparation of flying out to LoCap Nats but I wasn't sure if there were any range tips to consider.
  13. +1 to everything Pat said - he's given me lots of good advice, but this is probably the best. My groups get better as I go on like yours do. I'll actually slow down my first two shot pairs if it's early in a match. Only a fraction of a second or so, but it helps me get everything locked in for the rest of the stage. I can even see some wobble in my dry fire on the first shots after the draw – working on it, though.
  14. I couldn't find any info on their website so I sent them an email. No reply yet but it's only been a couple days.
  15. Still nothing on ammo shipments? I'll be running them off this week but kinda need to know where to send it, lol.
  16. Hannibal and I are looking into this one. Hoping I can get back out there!
  17. You sunnuva.... Lol. Toolguy has saved the day! I'm also going to make a solid retention screw per everyone's suggestion. It really is a bummer that Smith invented a new point of failure just to save time/money on assembly. Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk
  18. I had an interesting reload while competing at the USPSA state championship last weekend. Running into the last arrays on my last stage (because of course), I popped the cylinder open, ejected a spent moon, and went to drop in a new one only to find that I didn't have a cylinder any more. After taking the zero on the stage and finding all of the pieces of my gun, we figured out that the crane slipped past the yoke screw (S&W 627 with the new plunger-style screw) and out of the gun. It looks like there were a few contributing factors - the screw had loosened somewhat, the plunger/spring had separated from the screw, and the crane was sporting this shiny divot: I've been experimenting at home and I can get the crane to repeat this by loosening the yoke screw two turns, opening the cylinder all the way, and then pulling it straight out of the gun. I've already ordered new yoke screws and I'm looking into sourcing a new crane now (the new style is proving hard to come by). If anyone has any creative ideas on how to spare this crane I'm all ears, but I don't see a way to fully guarantee it won't happen again. Does anyone know what would cause this damage to occur?
  19. I've finally, finally starting doing this. It's a really good way to learn how fast is too fast, as well. Unfortunately, for me, too fast is probably "slow" in the grand scheme of things, lol.
  20. A polymer frame, Glock slide, and striker operated firing system. Only half kidding. I absolutely adore 19/2011's and don't even own a Glock, but chasing reliability on a 100+ year old gun seems like a tougher proposition than going with a modern platform. XD's aside (ducks). Having said all that, my RIA doublestack was completely reliable in competition. The key thing for me was using the correct recoil spring for my load; it's been a minute, but I think it was an 11# spring with a 147. I've never heard of 4" being more reliable but I guess it's possible? Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk
  21. I believe it's regular blued steel. My Charging Rhinos have some kind of silver coating but I dunno what it is. I'll drop you a PM in a bit, and thanks! Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk
  22. I think this is the most likely culprit, exacerbated by a less than ideal moon/brass fit and potentially bullet profile and size. I just ran the Rhino at the IDPA state championship and, even though I brushed it out after every stage, I still had a moon or two that were stubborn going in (at the most inopportune times, of course). I'm not confident in my ability to run a reamer so I'm looking into smiths at the moment (for a honing at the bare minimum). I've just about used up my 40 bullets so I might try out some .400" FMJ's just to see if I notice any change on that front. Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk
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