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RIA VR80 coming in 2019


Rudukai13

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1 minute ago, Ming the Merciless said:

 

Start small and see if it works.  You can always go bigger, harder to make a hole smaller.  

Taccom makes a good muzzle brake, it's in stock, you can change the choke without removing the brake and it's less than half the price of the Grizzly.

https://taccom3g.com/product/vr80-ulw-brake/

And not very effective at breaking the recoil. As quoted by several people in this thread. I had the same experience with it as well. Maybe you can change the chokes without taking the break off...but what good does that do when it doesnt serve its primary purpose of breaking recoil. Also I still cant understand why anyone needs anything more than a mod choke. I've never had any issues in any matches running only a mod

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I saw a video where someone tested 5 muzzle brakes. They had very interesting results and a bunch of people said I want that VP unit. Then someone said oops your calculations are off, the other one the GK 03 should have won. Here is a recent email they sent me saying that they have them in stock again. https://ivantactical.com/shop/weapon-accessories/weapon-rails-and-tuning/muzzle-devices/akademia-vepr-12-ilyin-gk-03-muzzle-brake/
I'm just going to go with porting.

Edited by meeesterpaul
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Hey fellas, newbie here, got my VR80 this past Friday. Read thru the posts, here, extremely helpful. Was starting to break it down tonight and for the life of me I can get the receivers to separate. I feel like I'm missing a step. I've pulled both receiver pins out 'til they click. It's acting like something is bound up towards the stock side. I say this because at the front I can get maybe 1mm of gap; while the back is moving only enough for some liquid to squeeze out. I've tried some degreaser/cleaner. Any ideas? This is also my first long gun so I'm wondering if I'm totally newb'ing something here. Frustrating because I've watched 3 different videos and each one the damn things nearly just fell apart when the pins were pulled out. TIA, Mac

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3 hours ago, Mad74Mac said:

Hey fellas, newbie here, got my VR80 this past Friday. Read thru the posts, here, extremely helpful. Was starting to break it down tonight and for the life of me I can get the receivers to separate. I feel like I'm missing a step. I've pulled both receiver pins out 'til they click. It's acting like something is bound up towards the stock side. I say this because at the front I can get maybe 1mm of gap; while the back is moving only enough for some liquid to squeeze out. I've tried some degreaser/cleaner. Any ideas? This is also my first long gun so I'm wondering if I'm totally newb'ing something here. Frustrating because I've watched 3 different videos and each one the damn things nearly just fell apart when the pins were pulled out. TIA, Mac

 

I grabbed a video hoping someone would see something I'm doing wrong. Pulled the buffer tube to no avail. Thanks in advance for any ideas. Otherwise I guess I"m calling RIA tomorrow.

 

 

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7 hours ago, meeesterpaul said:

I saw a video where someone tested 5 muzzle brakes. They had very interesting results and a bunch of people said I want that VP unit. Then someone said oops your calculations are off, the other one the GK 03 should have won. Here is a recent email they sent me saying that they have them in stock again. https://ivantactical.com/shop/weapon-accessories/weapon-rails-and-tuning/muzzle-devices/akademia-vepr-12-ilyin-gk-03-muzzle-brake/
I'm just going to go with porting.

What are you talking about? 

 

It has completely different threading than anything vepr-12. 

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3 hours ago, AverageJoeShooting said:

What are you talking about? 

 

It has completely different threading than anything vepr-12. 

ok. I didn't look that close since I only plan on porting. I would think them producing one for the VR80 would be likely. It's effectiveness was distinctive so it could be worth considering. 

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18 minutes ago, meeesterpaul said:

ok. I didn't look that close since I only plan on porting. I would think them producing one for the VR80 would be likely. It's effectiveness was distinctive so it could be worth considering. 

I mean...if they made something I'd definitely give it a try, but ria would have to sell them rights or something

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18 hours ago, meeesterpaul said:

I saw a video where someone tested 5 muzzle brakes. They had very interesting results and a bunch of people said I want that VP unit. Then someone said oops your calculations are off, the other one the GK 03 should have won. Here is a recent email they sent me saying that they have them in stock again. https://ivantactical.com/shop/weapon-accessories/weapon-rails-and-tuning/muzzle-devices/akademia-vepr-12-ilyin-gk-03-muzzle-brake/
I'm just going to go with porting.

 

I think they should take in to account the weight of the muzzle brakes they are testing. Usually they are testing barrel rise on a bench with some grid paper behind.

The GK-03 weighs "just" 208g. 8g heavier then the first muzzle brake I had on my Derya for the first year. It was a copy of this made to fit the MK-12: https://www.atlanticfirearms.com/products/x12-shotgun-compensator.

 

Of course they will affect barrel rise if there is a hunk of metal at the end of a 20" pole. My scrawny wrist had it's work cut out to it every time i had to back up (run backwards) on a stage.

 

In my opinion the best test would be to measure the directional force of directed gasses from the brake. I have seen some flow simulations made with some common brakes but i don't know how accurate they are.

 

I have limited skills in math but i used this to make my own brake: https://apps.dtic.mil/dtic/tr/fulltext/u2/838748.pdf

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15 hours ago, Mad74Mac said:

 

I grabbed a video hoping someone would see something I'm doing wrong. Pulled the buffer tube to no avail. Thanks in advance for any ideas. Otherwise I guess I"m calling RIA tomorrow.

 

Are you still fighting this problem? The rear pin has nothing around it in the lower. If you have the buffer pulled off, take the detent out from the back. It’s a 2mm Allen screw. Get that out of the way and drive the pin the rest of the way out. I’m guessing you’ve got a chip or bur at the inside of the hole or stuck in the pin slot. But as I said, with the detent gone, there is nothing else there besides the pin. Good luck

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20 hours ago, Mad74Mac said:

Hey fellas, newbie here, got my VR80 this past Friday. Read thru the posts, here, extremely helpful. Was starting to break it down tonight and for the life of me I can get the receivers to separate. I feel like I'm missing a step. I've pulled both receiver pins out 'til they click. It's acting like something is bound up towards the stock side. I say this because at the front I can get maybe 1mm of gap; while the back is moving only enough for some liquid to squeeze out. I've tried some degreaser/cleaner. Any ideas? This is also my first long gun so I'm wondering if I'm totally newb'ing something here. Frustrating because I've watched 3 different videos and each one the damn things nearly just fell apart when the pins were pulled out. TIA, Mac

From your video it appears the bolt is not fully forward and the tail of the bolt carrier is sticking out through the rear of the lower receiver.  Push the bolt/bolt carrier forward until the tail is clear of the receiver and see if that releases the upper.  Your take down pins are fully extended so that isn't the problem.

 

 

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4 hours ago, Mad74Mac said:

Thanks for the guidance all - should be home from work in a few hours to try these out. Will advise. 

 

Holy hell I finally got it apart. Had to hold upside down and tap the front protruding tab and work it like hell. Nothign was hung up remarkably, just the rear connection to upper/lower where that pin was going thru is extremely snug. Thanks for the tips on barrel removal and detents, ultimately couldn't have gotten there without all that. 

 

So I've never worked on a gun like this - is it as simple as sanding the upper receiver part to fit less 'snug'? Or should I just take it to a local gun smith and tell them to make it work right?

Edited by Mad74Mac
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I’d just take a flat file and make a single pass at a time until it fits together well. Check and make sure there’s not a blemish under the finish where that back pin block is on either the upper or lower. If there is I’d try to remove it...otherwise just smooth the upper portion that goes into the lower portion. Should be easy. The finish comes off easy and clean

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Ok it seems that adding weight to the buffer does decrease felt recoil a lot but can make the gun finicky.
What I did was weld a 8 ox pice of metal to the carrier (forgot to account for the weld) so now my gun won't cycle 00buckdhot at 1345 fps.
I'll start trimming and weighing till I get to what I want to shoot

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk

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32 minutes ago, Nelsonh said:

Ok it seems that adding weight to the buffer does decrease felt recoil a lot but can make the gun finicky.
What I did was weld a 8 ox pice of metal to the carrier (forgot to account for the weld) so now my gun won't cycle 00buckdhot at 1345 fps.
I'll start trimming and weighing till I get to what I want to shoot

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk
 

 

Or make a buffer with adjustable weights? The original is 41g. This setup is about 70g.

Bufferi enos.jpg

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If I had a lathe I would. I don't do I went the route I did and will test and remove till I get we're I like. It was softer than a 556 with 00 buck at 1345 fps but a little touch weight to fully eject and pickup another shell. Shouldn't be to hard to hit the target, going to get at least 1300 fps for sure and may possibly go down to 1200 but no lower for what I want.

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk

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Ok took just a little over 3 1/2 oz off the weight and now cycled supremo 00 buck 9 pellet 3010 fps smooth as butter. Just fired 30 rounds from the drum and all perfect, even locked the bolt on empty mag.
Think I'll stop right there.
Boy this gun is fun, now to find some anti walk pins to replace that stupid splined hammer pin.

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk

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If I can find it I used to have one of the at bianary triggers, may more the hammer and disconnector to work in the VR and see what that's like with this light recoil lol.

Oh the at hammer is to short and not wife enough to teach the firing pin and the disconnector will hit the hammer before cocking. Can probably just modify the hammer just above the disconnector hook and it should work just fine in the vr80

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk

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Another mod I did was cut the tail off the disconnector as it was setup just like a m16 disconnector and I just wasn't comfortable with this in my gun, there is no need for the tail on a semi auto ar style gun.
May just be me being overly cautious but I in no way want to run afoul of the laws do the tail is chopped.

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk

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15 minutes ago, Nelsonh said:

Another mod I did was cut the tail off the disconnector as it was setup just like a m16 disconnector and I just wasn't comfortable with this in my gun, there is no need for the tail on a semi auto ar style gun.
May just be me being overly cautious but I in no way want to run afoul of the laws do the tail is chopped.

Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk
 

Now start up your own shop and start charging people to mod out their vr80 and shoot the flattest possible 

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