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Red Dot Choices


RustedFrog

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I am trying to chose a red dot for my new open gun. I know most people shoot the RTS2 or the Delta Point Pro. I am wondering why no little to no one shoots the Burris Fast Fire 3. I know a couple of local shooters who do and are happy with them I am just wondering what everyone's opinion on why is?

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I have four FF3s in 8 MOA, thre RTS2v4s with 6 MOA dots and two DPP 2.5s.   My first FF3 was on my 1911 45.  The small plastic cover over the LED emitter cracked after shooting 40,000 rounds of bullseye (156PF) and major (172PF).   The two pieces fell out soon after.  The dot continued to work and I had no issues with it.  I called Burris because I was a little worried about dirt or soot clogging the hole.  They insisted I send it to them.  I did, and they returned a brand new unit.

 

I originally had 7 FF3s.  I tried them for Steel Challenge and was disappointed with the dot brightness.  What I didn't realize at the time it was due to the battery being week.  Batteries in FF3s last about 3 years.  They drain over time, but the change is so slow you don't notice it.  I finally changes the battery and was surprised to see the dot was now brighter than on the RTS2s I bought to replace some of them.  I still have a FF3 sitting in a box waiting for me to finish a new pistol to put it on.

 

RTS2v4.  I like this sight and the shape of the window, but I took them off my Steel Challenge guns because of dot brightness.  They are all 6 MOA.  One of them will not last an entire match without noticeably dimming, even if I turn it down between stages.  Another will (barely) last the entire match.  The third will last even if I don't turn it down between stages.  None of them are good to go for a second match unless the battery is replaced.

 

DPP 2.5.  A great sight.  The dot blooms at the higher settings, so it appears larger than 2.5 MOA.  Batteries last a long time.  I have them on my Steel Challenge guns, because they are bright enough to see the dot even on white steel in bright sunlight, with the sun behind you.

 

The FF3s and the DPPs hold zero.  At least two of my RTS2v4 drift.

 

Window size:  I used to care.  Bigger was better.  Not so much anymore.  When you are shooting correctly, you look at the target and move the gun.  The dot magically appears on the target.  So window size doesn't mean that much.  If you cannot move the gun to where you are looking and have the dot centered over the target, improving your gun handling skills will do much more than a larger window.  Large windows won't help if you play find-the-dot all the time. 

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

I’ve got 8 FF3’s. Both slide ride and frame mounts. Never a single problem with any of them shooting major and minor. The battery lasted 6 years in my first one, shooting an average of 7 hours a week. Who cares if the glass is a few thousandths smaller than the others. You don’t look at the glass, you look at the target until the dot gets in the way ...  duh!

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On 11/19/2018 at 11:54 AM, Marc82Much said:

I have a Romeo 1 and it turns on and off automatically. Nice feature. Do any other red dots have this feature? I am looking to put a new optic on my new Q5 Match.

Holosun HS507C.  Up to 100,000 hour battery life. 

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  • 1 month later...

One other optic that is solid is the J.Point ( from JP ) I had issues with the small glass at first, but it seemed to force me to focus more, and hold firm, which helped.  Dot acquisition was not difficult once you establish alignment markers.  I have one slide mounted on a SVI open.  the dot is only about 1/4" above barrel.  So If I pick-up barrel in bottom of glass, dot is in middle?  It is all about you.  I prefer side mounted C-more for most of my open guns, but that is because I like the dot low ( c-more about 1/2" above barrel ) and I prefer to move left to right, so side mounted c-more is never in  my field of view.  I am always moving away.  

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On 9/28/2018 at 9:36 AM, RustedFrog said:

A small window is my biggest concern on the fast fire. I have been running an old style delta point for the last three years which isn't the biggest window. But it is still a decent bit larger than the fast fire.

 

Keep in mind that while the window is small, the frame around it is also very thin compared to other systems.  The frame an an EOTECH or HoloSun are easily three times as thick and that blind spot can be more annoying then a small window that blends in and is relatively unnoticeable at speed.

 

I've used a FFIII on 9mm CZ, 9mm Glock and 2 AR-9s for the last 2 years with no problems.  Prior to using them I broke an Insight MRDS which cost more than 3 times what the FFIII.  So everyone has seen something break that shouldn't have.  Even iron sights break off at random times.

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Forgot to mention, the see through cover that comes with a FFIII is also a nice addition if you are using it on a non reciprocating mount.  If you ever have to shoot in the rain or a real low angle sunlight condition you can keep the cover on while shooting.  It would probably fly off on the first round if you kept it on and fired an open gun, but even then, the site would be dry until that point.

 

 

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I’ve been thinking about putting my FF3 on my trubor. I had it mounted on the of slide my Glock open gun, and I never had any problems though probably 6k.  Dots mounted on slides get way more abuse then frame mounted dots, and it still held up. The only problem is the dot is not very bright. I could barely see it on a bright day. My Cmore is super bright and I can see it in any weather. My FF3 is the 3 moa, maybe the bigger ones are brighter. 

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