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Think I'm done with CZ's


TJART

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I've had ZERO issue with any other primer and my press. ZERO.

so you're using the only brand of primers that doesn't work and you're complaining about the gun?

I think I see an easy solution.

Everyone here has had no issue with S&B primers in their guns; even some running 11.5#. I'm running 13# and have issues. Also, as stated above, I have MAJOR issues with the 11.5# and pretty much any ammo, factory and reloaded.

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I've had ZERO issue with any other primer and my press. ZERO.

so you're using the only brand of primers that doesn't work and you're complaining about the gun?

I think I see an easy solution.

Everyone here has had no issue with S&B primers in their guns; even some running 11.5#. I'm running 13# and have issues. Also, as stated above, I have MAJOR issues with the 11.5# and pretty much any ammo, factory and reloaded.

I had issues with 11.5# spring. so i changed it back to the spring that worked and never had a problem again. In general, I try to do stuff that works rather than stuff that doesn't work, regardless of what my friends and neighbors are doing.

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Sounds like a gun problem, but it should be easy to diagnose and fix.

Stick with it

Deflated right now. Feel sick. I just sent an email to David, I'll see what he says.

What kind of CZ?

SP01 Safety, non-anything.

20151212_145600-1_zpsy3gxixhu.jpg

I definitely agree with sanding off any high spot on the sides of the hammer, and in the channel of the frame, then polishing all those surfaces. You can polish the hammer strut too... But what is going on with the hammer strut pin? In the picture it almost looks like it is dragging on something (the frame?), which would definitely cause your reliability issues. Is it below flush on both sides, maybe it needs to be shortened or centered?

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its a block gun without the block.

I would look at the firing pin, make sure it is true and not binding.

make sure the spring is on it correctly and not binding the firing pin.

and the retaining pin. make sure the firing pin or the retaining pin are not peened to obstruct movement.

also not using grease, heavy oil and using sonic cleaner to clean slide without taking it apart.

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its a block gun without the block.

I would look at the firing pin, make sure it is true and not binding.

make sure the spring is on it correctly and not binding the firing pin.

and the retaining pin. make sure the firing pin or the retaining pin are not peened to obstruct movement.

also not using grease, heavy oil and using sonic cleaner to clean slide without taking it apart.

Taking the gun down now, in the mean time, I uploaded a quick pencil test.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GI6XWxTwnQ

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its a block gun without the block.

I would look at the firing pin, make sure it is true and not binding.

make sure the spring is on it correctly and not binding the firing pin.

and the retaining pin. make sure the firing pin or the retaining pin are not peened to obstruct movement.

also not using grease, heavy oil and using sonic cleaner to clean slide without taking it apart.

Taking the gun down now, in the mean time, I uploaded a quick pencil test.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GI6XWxTwnQ

That how my 97 does.

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I put extended firing pins in all of my czs, never had a light strike even with 11-13 hammer spring.

I have one in mine and experience all kinds of issues with the 11.5# or the 13#

Stu;

I took the gun down; I guess I'm not experienced to know what the exact problem is. The firing pin spring seems to bind a little, as in, it seems like a really fit tight onto the firing pin. But I could be wrong - I compared it to the stock one, and the stock one flows freely.

I called the shop, but no one answered. I'll get it to you so you can fix whatever is wrong.

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I could be wrong, but the FP is still held in with a firing pin retaining pin, restricting the distance it can travel, even if the FPB isn't there. The non-FPB models use a firing pin stop plate vs. the roll pin through the slide. I wouldn't expect it to launch a pencil, but both my FPB guns hit a pencil like that.

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I could be wrong, but the FP is still held in with a firing pin retaining pin, restricting the distance it can travel, even if the FPB isn't there. The non-FPB models use a firing pin stop plate vs. the roll pin through the slide. I wouldn't expect it to launch a pencil, but both my FPB guns hit a pencil like that.

i did not consider this. I've never owned one with a fpb.

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Well first, a very special shout to Stu for taking my call, and sitting with me on the phone for the better part of a half hour to try and diagnose the issue. We came up with the firing pin retaining pin channel was about .05" too short. He recommended that I file it and she what happens.

CGW called me and says their channel is .199, so that 'shouldn't' be the issue. They suggested I had a timing issue. I couldn't tell any issues when we ran the test over the phone, but they're emailing me instruction on how to possibly remedy it.

Additionally, the trigger support bar had one side not riding in the groove. He suggested bending it until it rides in there.

This has just become an enormous pain in my ***. I'm done with this and most likely going to swap with phoenixsomd.

Again, big thanks to Stu at CZ Customs for trying to diagnose a gun with other manufactures parts. Thats is a real stand-up thing to do.

Edited by TJART
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Well, a lot of good advise/suggestions above. My 2 cents are:

1. Agree with motosapiens. You are using the only primers that give problems?!?!?!?!?

2. I am using the 8.5# MS, extended firing pin, and reduced power FPS and have no issue with Win SP or SR, CCI SP or SR, or Federal SP primers. Wolfe and Tula a totally different issue. So I'll finish shooting the Tula/Wolfe in practice and use good primers for matches. Tula/Wolfe primer were better with 11 and 13# MS but never 100%. Pistol is SP01.

3. What is the seating depth of your primers? If you said, I missed it. A critical item with 8.5 # MS but less so with 11 # & 13 # spring. The depth should be ~.004"

4. If you have a problem (and, to be truthful, I'm more inclined to say you don't given most primers work fine), you have lots of good advise above on what and where to do polishing and ensure no burrs/high spots/binding.'

Just sayin'


I've had ZERO issue with any other primer and my press. ZERO.

so you're using the only brand of primers that doesn't work and you're complaining about the gun?

I think I see an easy solution.

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Well, a lot of good advise/suggestions above. My 2 cents are:

1. Agree with motosapiens. You are using the only primers that give problems?!?!?!?!?

2. I am using the 8.5# MS, extended firing pin, and reduced power FPS and have no issue with Win SP or SR, CCI SP or SR, or Federal SP primers. Wolfe and Tula a totally different issue. So I'll finish shooting the Tula/Wolfe in practice and use good primers for matches. Tula/Wolfe primer were better with 11 and 13# MS but never 100%. Pistol is SP01.

3. What is the seating depth of your primers? If you said, I missed it. A critical item with 8.5 # MS but less so with 11 # & 13 # spring. The depth should be ~.004"

4. If you have a problem (and, to be truthful, I'm more inclined to say you don't given most primers work fine), you have lots of good advise above on what and where to do polishing and ensure no burrs/high spots/binding.'

Just sayin'


I've had ZERO issue with any other primer and my press. ZERO.

so you're using the only brand of primers that doesn't work and you're complaining about the gun?

I think I see an easy solution.

Link to comment
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Well, a lot of good advise/suggestions above. My 2 cents are:

1. Agree with motosapiens. You are using the only primers that give problems?!?!?!?!?

2. I am using the 8.5# MS, extended firing pin, and reduced power FPS and have no issue with Win SP or SR, CCI SP or SR, or Federal SP primers. Wolfe and Tula a totally different issue. So I'll finish shooting the Tula/Wolfe in practice and use good primers for matches. Tula/Wolfe primer were better with 11 and 13# MS but never 100%. Pistol is SP01.

3. What is the seating depth of your primers? If you said, I missed it. A critical item with 8.5 # MS but less so with 11 # & 13 # spring. The depth should be ~.004"

4. If you have a problem (and, to be truthful, I'm more inclined to say you don't given most primers work fine), you have lots of good advise above on what and where to do polishing and ensure no burrs/high spots/binding.'

Just sayin'

I've had ZERO issue with any other primer and my press. ZERO.

so you're using the only brand of primers that doesn't work and you're complaining about the gun?

I think I see an easy solution.

I bought 8K to save on hazmat, etc.

The 13#, according to CGW, will light anything off. So how was I supposed to know that these would be trouble. Especially when I reviewed them first, and everyone else is having success with them, even w a 11.5# nonetheless.

So you're telling me I can use every primer under the sun, have zero issues, then move to a S&B and have a 30% failure with a 13# and it's not the gun?

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