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Think I'm done with CZ's


TJART

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Well first, a very special shout to Stu for taking my call, and sitting with me on the phone for the better part of a half hour to try and diagnose the issue. We came up with the firing pin retaining pin channel was about .05" too short. He recommended that I file it and she what happens.

CGW called me and says their channel is .199, so that 'shouldn't' be the issue. They suggested I had a timing issue. I couldn't tell any issues when we ran the test over the phone, but they're emailing me instruction on how to possibly remedy it.

Additionally, the trigger support bar had one side not riding in the groove. He suggested bending it until it rides in there.

This has just become an enormous pain in my ***. I'm done with this and most likely going to swap with phoenixsomd.

Again, big thanks to Stu at CZ Customs for trying to diagnose a gun with other manufactures parts. Thats is a real stand-up thing to do.

If you don't mind, can you share this with me? Would like to check the timing on my 97 as well.

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What happens if you load one of the light strike rounds and shoot it again?

If it shoots the second time, you aren't pressing the primers in far enough...

That isn't always 100% the cause. I'm having the same issue as the OP with a 97BD and mine is 100% stock. Does it with all ammo (factory and reloads). On mine if I remove the FPB it runs 100% with both type of ammo.

Edited by MrRick
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What happens if you load one of the light strike rounds and shoot it again?

If it shoots the second time, you aren't pressing the primers in far enough...

Doubt that, does it with some factory, as well.

But a double action follow-up sets them off.

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If your video of the pencil test is right your primers are not the problem!!My SP-01 Custom with a 8.5# main will launch a Pencil at least 1 1/2 feet up.You FPS should not grip the fire pin and also the SP01 Shadows have a different length .I found out when I got RPS from CGW and there was not enough spring length to hold enough tension for retainer to hold FP stop.CGW can set you straight on that.They sent me out the correct ones.So if you have a Shadow SP-01 and it is newer you need the RP spring for a Shadow SP-01 not a FPS for a CZ 75.

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If your video of the pencil test is right your primers are not the problem!!My SP-01 Custom with a 8.5# main will launch a Pencil at least 1 1/2 feet up.You FPS should not grip the fire pin and also the SP01 Shadows have a different length .I found out when I got RPS from CGW and there was not enough spring length to hold enough tension for retainer to hold FP stop.CGW can set you straight on that.They sent me out the correct ones.So if you have a Shadow SP-01 and it is newer you need the RP spring for a Shadow SP-01 not a FPS for a CZ 75.

It's a non-shaddow, but have to damn near force my spring onto the firing pin. It grips it like its a fitted 1911 part.

Here is a better picture of an unfired round; the primers are sat plenty deep. The unfired cases appeared like they were not.

20160112_115032_zps1vrlujlf.jpg

Edited by TJART
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Did you get your reduced power Firing pin springs from CGW?When I got mine from CGW I originally got the RP-FPS on my Shadow it went on to far and pushed over the stop on pin and there was no tension on stop.I called CGW and they said at least the Shadows and not sure if all new SP-01 have a different spring so the sent me out springs #97041 I would call them as this may be your problem?The spring you have may be spreading out at hammer end and causing firing pin to bind inside channel?

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If you can't isolate and resolve the issue on your own, get it to a gunsmith who can solve the problem. Use the $$ in hazmat you saved on the crappy primers and ship the gun to someone who can solve the issue.

That being said, you get what you pay for. Free advice on the internet or over the phone is still only worth what it cost you. That and the S&B primers are cheap for a reason. They are CHEAPLY made. That is the only primer manufacture that I have seen multiple primers missing anvils in a 400 round loading batch. That is pretty crappy quality control not to mention the rock hard cups. Don't be surprised when those same crappy primers give you trouble in a Glock with a tuned up trigger.

Edited by CHA-LEE
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Did you get your reduced power Firing pin springs from CGW?When I got mine from CGW I originally got the RP-FPS on my Shadow it went on to far and pushed over the stop on pin and there was no tension on stop.I called CGW and they said at least the Shadows and not sure if all new SP-01 have a different spring so the sent me out springs #97041 I would call them as this may be your problem?The spring you have may be spreading out at hammer end and causing firing pin to bind inside channel?

While on the phone yesterday with Stu, he had me measure the FP, Spring, and diameter in and out. Said they check ok.

I have to file out some of the channel as he suggested; haven't gotten around to that, yet.

There were a few posts about polishing hammer/frame... did that, zero difference.

I've got to tell you, I seat my primers much deeper

Me too.

Not saying that's the problem though.

Unfired round picture added. I doubt I have any further to go in seating. Post a picture of yours.

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If you can't isolate and resolve the issue on your own, get it to a gunsmith who can solve the problem. Use the $$ in hazmat you saved on the crappy primers and ship the gun to someone who can solve the issue.

That being said, you get what you pay for. Free advice on the internet or over the phone is still worth what it cost you. That and the S&B primers are cheap for a reason. They are CHEAPLY made. That is the only primer manufacture that I have seen multiple primers missing anvils in a 400 round loading batch. That is pretty crappy quality control not to mention the rock hard cups.

There are plenty of people using the S&B with 11.5# spring. I can't light them of with a 13#. Doubt its a primer issue.

Yes, I'm most likely going to send my gun to Stu.

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I am sure there are plenty of rabbits that run across a busy highway and don't get hit verses the ones that do get hit. Does that success/fail rate still make it the "correct" process for crossing a busy highway???

Some decisions are more painful than others. All we can do is learn from the painful lessons and avoid making them in the future. The next time you see cheap crappy primers for sale this current issue should refresh your memory on how much time, hassle, and money they really don't save you.

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I am sure there are plenty of rabbits that run across a busy highway and don't get hit verses the ones that do get hit. Does that success/fail rate still make it the "correct" process for crossing a busy highway???

Some decisions are more painful than others. All we can do is learn from the painful lessons and avoid making them in the future. The next time you see cheap crappy primers for sale this current issue should refresh your memory on how much time, hassle, and money they really don't save you.

tumblr_mx41ejHJ9u1sxviy0o1_500_zpsc15bcd

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What crimp do you have on the loaded rounds, and are you using mixed head-stamp cases ? I am wondering if there is too much crimp that the case may be going a little deep into the chamber.

Mixed brass. I plunk'd these at 1.15X, so I set it at 1.13X and it gives me a +/- variation of about 0.01 either way, with the mixed brass. I barely put any crimp on these. Maybe I should try no crimp at all, as I've not had any feed issues.

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There are so many variables in play when it comes to this issue. While you possibly have mechanical issues going on, you seem to want to turn a blind eye to the simplest variable of all which is primer selection. As others have said, cheap primers are cheap for a reason. I've learned my lesson the hard way with cheap primers and now I wouldn't use them even if they were free. If you want to use them, learn to accept failures. And as I've heard from a prominent GM many times, thank you for your donation in match points.

Anyone that reloads their own ammo should be asking themselves, "What failure rate is acceptable to me?" For me it's ZERO. Six sigma is not good enough for me.

Since you asked, I posted some pics of what my primers look like. I lightly crush seat them in so that most of the radius at the edge of the primer is gone.

3CE5C3EF-A42D-41FF-9A6A-BEB5AE351736_zps8B297C87-A944-4A69-B218-8A49D1A64301_zps

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I have shot over 10K of S&B primers for the last 6 months. I like them better then CCI and especially Winchester. I have had 2 light strikes with S&B. I have had more light strikes with CCI and WAY more with Winchester. (With both Glock and CZ)

I would never shoot them at the matches that I care about, however. Federal only.

Edited by cheby
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If you can't isolate and resolve the issue on your own, get it to a gunsmith who can solve the problem. Use the $$ in hazmat you saved on the crappy primers and ship the gun to someone who can solve the issue.

That being said, you get what you pay for. Free advice on the internet or over the phone is still worth what it cost you. That and the S&B primers are cheap for a reason. They are CHEAPLY made. That is the only primer manufacture that I have seen multiple primers missing anvils in a 400 round loading batch. That is pretty crappy quality control not to mention the rock hard cups.

There are plenty of people using the S&B with 11.5# spring. I can't light them of with a 13#. Doubt its a primer issue.

Yes, I'm most likely going to send my gun to Stu.

FWIW.......My 1st run of 250, of the S&B spp resulted with no issues in my Shadow with 11.5 lb spring . Also with the xtended firing pin to help make sure. So far so good....

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