TJART

Tanfos and CZ can already dip into the 1# 6/8/10 oz.SA territory. I don't know why people want to continue to chase lower trigger weights. That wouldn't even light off federals if you installed it on a low weight gun...

LOL. Yeah, okay.

PM Kneelingatlas

So about $1150-$1225USD Before supply and demand. Lol

Myself and Taco just tested the two sears, and the EG sear ADDS trigger weight. So basically, the stock sear runs better in the non-extreame guns. You can see your reflection in my EG sear, everything, including the pin is polished. Tacos stock sear, with a T3, has a night and day trigger pull than when installed with the EG Extreame sear.

There are so many shadow fanboi's that no one will see a shadow 2 for under 2K for at LEAST a year, one they hit US market.

I used these on my shadows exclusively. I loved them. They are better than any stipple job, or checkered aluminum, or scales grip. People knock them cause they are prone to crack if the USER over tightens them. I love them. And would recommend.

No, but... I've talked with Patriot about sourcing lower and quantifiable hammer spring for tanfos. Maybe once that's figured out, we can begin to see what other springs can be addressed. Hopefully no more clipping springs off "light" and "medium" springs.

I'm sure Taco bought the costco pack of pens. Lol

Before I did anything to the T3 disco, I put it on and neither SA nor DA would fall. Then I did minimal removal, barely removed the sharpie mark, still neither SA nor DA would fall. I then did a bit more... so on. I did about 5 rounds of that, and still neither SA nor DA would fall. At that point, I realized the T3 disco is probably already ruined, or, maybe I have not removed enough material? I guess the key piece missing is, what behaviors characterize not enough material removed, and what would indicate too much have been removed? I tried PM'ing you, but if you're still having this problem, do the following - remove some material from the wing of the disco, as it is not allowing the trigger bar to slip. I'm going to attempt to fit a T3 with a Titan hammer. Before I do any fitting, what should I see happening with the oversize T3 installed?The double action should function normally? If not, fit the wing as shown above? If DA won't break, hit the wing. Very carefully, lol. Keep hitting the inner disco area if no reset.

Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. You should just give it a shot and make sure it functions. I've run across a few stocks w xtreme parts, specifically w a titan hammer, that are needing wing adjustments.

Before I did anything to the T3 disco, I put it on and neither SA nor DA would fall. Then I did minimal removal, barely removed the sharpie mark, still neither SA nor DA would fall. I then did a bit more... so on. I did about 5 rounds of that, and still neither SA nor DA would fall. At that point, I realized the T3 disco is probably already ruined, or, maybe I have not removed enough material? I guess the key piece missing is, what behaviors characterize not enough material removed, and what would indicate too much have been removed? I tried PM'ing you, but if you're still having this problem, do the following - remove some material from the wing of the disco, as it is not allowing the trigger bar to slip.

All you did was change the angle of the hammer/sear interaction by removing more material. And in the process, probably increased pretravel, which is the opposite of what a t3 is designed for. The PROPER fix, is to file the hooks on the hammer.But clearly you know more than me. Says the guy disagreeing with the designer / manufacturer of the parts your installing. Well, let's clarify; I'm not disagreeing with David. What he told the other gentleman was the 'easiest' fix, not likely to result in irreversible hammer damage. Edit: Let's also clarify design, etc. (since you brought it up). CGW sources hammers from CZC. The CZC comp hammer was not designed to work with a T3 without modification (for the most part, every gun is different). Pretty much every T3 I've fit with a comp hammer, needed some hammer hook fitting. I wasn't trying to be a douche, but I told him the CORRECT modification to remedy his problem. Understandable, because like I said above, David told him the EASIEST fix for a DIY'er, least likely to not result in hammer damage. I've spoken to David about the T3 drop-in-ability and profiles. So don't think I'm trying to throw shade his way, as we've talked numerous times about it. So if you took my comment to heart, understand that I was trying to help you fix a HAMMER issue, not a T3 issue.

All you did was change the angle of the hammer/sear interaction by removing more material. And in the process, probably increased pretravel, which is the opposite of what a t3 is designed for. The PROPER fix, is to file the hooks on the hammer. But clearly you know more than me.

Just my theory. CZ's - 'Cause the shadow 2 has been released and everyone is unloading in anticipation of having to pay a little more that market value when they actually hit the market. Tanfo's - 'Cause most folks aren't that familiar with tuning them to get as good or better than a CZ. The posts and videos that have been going up in the Tanfo section seem to be jus the right catalyst for people to dive in. Also, there were limited aftermarket parts. And I don't care what anyone says, CZ copied the Stock 3 for the Shadow 2.