I immediatly regret buying a 1050

[darkmod]

I was feeling a little whimsical last month and bought a 1050. I had been on the fence about it for a long time due to the price and 1 year warranty, but I was prepared to make the investment to have the convenience of swaging primer pockets on the press, and also have a fine machine that is faster than a 650. Caliber changes are incredibly expensive, but its ok, because I know it will be set up to do .223 and nothing else. What really sealed the deal for me was that it came with dies and was, according to Dillon, set up from the factory to produce a SAMI spec round. I wouldn't have to fiddle an unfamiliar machine to regulate primer seating depth, swage depth etc.. I could just buy the thing and it would be ready to go. This would give me time to learn the 650 I bought with it and I could still produce .223 ammo while I progressed through the learning curve of the 650.

Oh Dillon 1050, how you have disappointed me! let me count the ways:

1. The instructions are terrible. Half the time your staring at a schematic flipping back and forth to instruction page to see what they are talking about. For someone who has never used a 1050 (Or a Dillon machine at all in my case) this adds an hour to the setup time.

2. You would think a machine set up at the factory to produce a SAMI spec .223 round would come with a powder measure capable of throwing a 21+ grn charge of powder. Not so. You are practically forced to mangle the small powder bar in Dillons maddeningly overcomplicated powder measure system armed only with the vaguest directions from Dillons 1050 owners manual. OAL of a trimmed piece of .223 brass shouldn't vary enough that you would have to adjust the powder die either, but lo and behold it required quite a bit of adjustment.

3. For a machine set up from the factory to produce a SAMI spec .223 round the primers seat EXTREMELY proud. So much for not having to tinker with a strange new priming system. I expected to have to adjust the seating die a bit to compensate for the variation in ogive, but the 1050 came set up from the factory to produce a round that was significantly longer than COAL. I don't even know if its swaging primer pockets correctly, so now I have to fiddle with the swaging rod too to make sure its actually doing what its supposed to.

4. The machine FLINGS powder if you don't return the handle with the utmost smoothness. This results in the machine operating slower than a 650. The remedies to this include altering my powder charge so the case isn't as full, and performing surgery on the machine to clip a spring. Ive got my charge where I like it so im not changing it, and it will be less frustrating for me to just load on the 650 and swage the primer pockets the old fashioned way than to disassemble the whole machine and hope I put it back together right.

I expected more from Dillon on this, I paid $1700 for a press that is essentially a 650 with a built in primer pocket swager, only its slower and only comes with a 1 year warranty. If I cant find a relatively easy fix for these problems im getting rid of it and buying a couple new guns.

Edited July 10, 2014 by darkmod

[Paul-the new guy]

I will trade you a fully loaded 650...

seriously, sorry you are having so many issues. If you bought it through Brian call him or at least call dillon

[gregshin]

I believe you need to use a larger powder bar when using more then 20gr of powder.

[Ssanders224]

The 1050 is an amazing press. Really.

- As far as the setup from the factory, I guess ive always taken that with a grain of salt. I dont honestly expect ANY press to arrive at my door completely ready to make perfect ammo.

- The powder measure is complicated? Hardly. Their powder measure has always worked wonderfully on all 3 of my Dillons. I really dont know why you are experiencing any complications in adjusting it? Maybe be more specific and we can help.

- Primer depth adjustment could literally not be any easier on a 1050. bump the set screw with an allen wrench until you achieve the desired depth.

- Play with the shellplate nut. Add grease to mating surfaces, and add a little more tension on the shellplate. This works fine for me and I'm loading .38SC with a nearly full case. If you still have problems, add the $10 bearing kit that most 1050 users recommend. It seems to cure shellplate snapping problems.

You have one of the finest manual progressive loading presses money can buy. Just learn its ins and outs, and you will be able to really crank out some ammol.

[Hi-Power Jack]

I wouldn't have to fiddle an unfamiliar machine to regulate primer seating depth, swage depth etc.. I could just buy the thing and it would be ready to go.

I am NOT handy enough to try a 650:(

Wish I were, but it's Square Deal for me - I find that intimidating at times,

despite the fact that I have been using one for 20 years:((

I DO NOT feel comfortable "fiddling with a 650 much less a 1050).

That's why I won't buy one. Never.

If you don't like to fiddle - I'd get rid of it right now - you will have to fiddle and fiddle

with that machine.

And, I bet the 650 with all the fixings is probably almost as fast as the 1050.

[pjb45]

I have a 1050.

1. The instructions suck, no doubt about it. Even downloading the manual does not provide enough information. However, everything is pretty logical and with some time and effort can be solved.

2. Rifle reloading requires the larger powder bar. It is pretty easy to replace the smaller with the larger. I am not sure of your issue other than they did not replace it at the factory.

3. A simple allen head driver adjusts the primer depth. Start with a high primer and just keep turning the allen screw/bolt until you get the right depth. The OAL is a product of the bullet profile. Again, did you expect it to be exact or just in the neighborhood. When I take my tool head and shell plate off, then put them back on, I have to readjust the seating die. I took the swage bar off. It was a PIA. If you are using different makes of brass you may have to readjust the swage. I just used a super swage. BTW: for .223 I had two different tool heads, one for sizing and trimming the other for priming, powder, seating and crimping. It was worth the investment for the second tool head.

4. Powder flinging, I do not have this problem so I do not have any comment other than it is a PIA.

I was pretty lucky in the fact I have a good friend that bails me out when I get in trouble with my lack of knowledge about Dillon. I can honestly say I love my 1050 and I hate reloading .223.

In fact, I hate it so much I will not do it and sold my extra tool head.

Bottleneck cases require extensive case preparation as opposed to straight neck pistol cases, e.g., Sizing, depriming and trimming (I added the vaccum attachment to the Dillon trimmer) are all done on a separate tool head. Super Swaging is next. Then the first tool head comes off and the second is put on the machine. This again requires fining tuning the dies.

In time as you learn more about how your 1050 works, you will appreciate it more and more. I load 9mm, 40S&W and 45ACP on mine with very few issues. I generally do thousand and thousands rounds at a time. BTW: get use to the crappy priming system, it pukes about 5,000 rounds. I use Federal primer exclusively and that has cut done on primer issues.

Good luck with your new machine.

It is worth the price.

[Youngeyes]

IMO you are over gunned amigo. I don't own a 1050 but I've loaded many rounds on Dillon presses. The 1050 is not the best press to start with. All the Dillons need some TLC and there is a learning curve on getting the proper settings for dies and powder throws and primers. Do a search and see how many people have used this great forum to learn to use their press. Take your time and the press will churn out great loads at a great speed. You bought a Ferrari. Now you need to learn to drive it. No press will work perfectly right out of the box. Factory set or not.

[kneelingatlas]

A friend who sold his 650 to buy a 1050 said he regretted so I bought a 650 and could not be happier with it

I started reloading on a friend's 550, but I'd never want to go back!

[Ken_Bird]

Well, I feel your pain. I fought with my 1050 for more time then I care to omit. The longer it took the more frustrated I got. I bet I called Dillon a dozen times. STOP NOW !

Call dillon and ask to Speak to Gary, there are two and the one you want is the manager. Tell him your problem, work with him and before you know it you will be a BLUE guy as well.

I had so much wrong I sent mine back to Gary, he had it about a week. and my friend, when it got back it was spot on perfect. I sent him the brass I used, the bullets, and primers. Did not send powder they had that. So they all the components they needed to get my machine running as it should.

Yes, be it a 550 / 650/ 1050 there is a learning curve, but when the light comes on you home.

If that all fails, email me and I will buy it from you.

JMHO

[RonofVa]

My machine came with the DVD on assembly and set up. I watched it during the assembly and several times before I ever attempted to load any ammo. It is quite helpful. If you didn’t get the DVD with your machine, you should get one.

I found the machine complex as a whole and a little intimidating at first. But you have to go around the unit and understand the function of each station then it is pretty simple. It is just that so many things are happening at one time.

I have had more trouble with the primer system than anything else.

As for adjusting the swage rod, I cut out the bottom section of a shell case for each caliber I was loading, and make adjustment visually. Adjust the back-up die first, then the swage rod. That is not in the video. Also the last time I changed from the small to the large swage rod, I measured the stick out distance from the machines base (without the shell plate installed and handle down) to the top of a properly adjusted swage rod, and found the distance to be .160” in both cases. Minor tweaking may be needed, but that distance worked in both cases for me.

Also, in the video the instructor suggests that you tighten the shell plate nut until it stops, then back it off ¼ of a turn. I found that 1/8 works better.

I understand why Dillon won’t adjust your powder drop measure. Liability.

I personally would never buy Dillon dies again. Not there is anything wrong with them, it is that I like Redding micro adjusting seating dies for rifle, and a seating with taper crimp for pistols. Seating with taper crimp, allows me to use one station for two functions, leaving one station open for my homemade bullet drop dies.

You will not have any trouble selling the 1050 if it continues to get under your skin.

[darkmod]

Thanks guys, I think I just need to put in my time and learn the thing from the ground up. I don't really expect Brian or dillon to do anything because the machine isn't defective, the defect lies in my expectations.

I can see that it would be quite rewarding once it's going good, so I'll use the forum or dillon ca to tackle the problems one at a time till I'm happy.

And just to remove any confusion: the powder measure came with the small charge bar installed, I was using a wrench the nut for my desired charge and it went to the end of the travel then snapped the nut. I then realized I needed to change out the charge bar but the dillon instructions weren't easy to follow and it led to a lot of frustration.

[Ken_Bird]

I will be happy to offer any help I can. I am not as good as Gary, but have dealt with this long enough now to know most of the issues. Feel free to contact me at your leisure.

[Ssanders224]

Same here. I know the workings of a 1050 intimately.

Feel free to PM me if you have questions.

[safeactionjackson]

Take your time and learn the s1050, out of the box they will all need some adjustments. I know mine required a minor change to the OAL of the cartridge, as well as the primer seating depth. The test round that was included with my press did not have a primer, therefor it did not have powder, which was more than likely not actually tested for obvious reasons.

Trust me, once you get it dialed in you will wish you had another one

~g

[Why1504]

I got mine back in December and only got it running well in the last 45 days. First go buy these:

http://ballistictools.com/store/three-gage-pack

Swage 10 pieces of brass, adjust. Then 20. Adjust, continue adjusting until you hit 100%.

Next remove the ratchet form the rear of the machine.

Then call Gary and get him to assist in getting the primer feeding properly and changing the charge bar on the powder drop.

Lube your brass.

Keep the machine lubed well.

Now when you run the machine think smooth, slow and deliberate. Smooth slow and deliberate will let you run at 600 rounds per hour without breaking a sweat.

Edited July 11, 2014 by Why1504

[Brassaholic13]

Buy the maintenance kit, and extra index pawls. You'll need em.

[RangerTrace]

This was probably said previously, but the absolute best way to start is with an extremely experience reloader who will set your press up from the start. I had never loaded anything on anything when I bought my 650 from Enos. Lee Neel set it up for me about 4 years ago, gave me some instruction, watched me load 200 rounds and I've never looked back. I couldn't even imagine opening all those boxes and trying to get going by myself!!

Good luck!!

[ipscjoe]

Send it to me.

[deuc224]

I immediately regret NOT buying my 1050 earlier. Seriously if you think it should have come from the factory ready to roll, you should have known better sir. The dvd is very lame but very very handy( dillon really needs to update it). Like someone said earlier, i watched it 3 times before i even set up my press.

[Service Desk]

I have a lazy thousand bones that I will swap for it..... And take the chance.

[RaylanGivens]

Buy the maintenance kit, and extra index pawls. You'll need em.

I just hit 15,000 rounds of 9mm on my s1050 and have never replaced an index pawl. It looks like the index pawl is the part that actually rotates the shell plate at the end of the handle up stroke. What causes them to go bad? Wear?

I bought a spare parts kit, but it doesn't have an index pawl in it.

[gigs]

Buy the maintenance kit, and extra index pawls. You'll need em.

I just hit 15,000 rounds of 9mm on my s1050 and have never replaced an index pawl. It looks like the index pawl is the part that actually rotates the shell plate at the end of the handle up stroke. What causes them to go bad? Wear?

I bought a spare parts kit, but it doesn't have an index pawl in it.

The 1050 spare parts kit sucks. It contains few of the parts that do break and lots of ones that I can't imagine ever breaking. It seems like the criteria for what was included was "hey we have a lot of extra of these".

The index pawl can bend/break due to a partially decapped primer jamming the shell plate, or a not fully seated primer.

It can also happen if you adjust the undocumented "index limit" set screw too far in, which just makes the pawl ram into it at the end of the index. This is a very long set screw that many people don't even realize exists under station 6 that limits the index action to prevent over indexing. If you have a motorized press just take this set screw out immediately, and use your stroke adjustment and shellplate nut tension to adjust indexing action.

Oh the index pawl is something soft as well, either zinc or aluminum. It gets scored by the shellplate quickly and definitely after the first jam it hits.

Edited July 11, 2014 by gigs

[RaylanGivens]

Buy the maintenance kit, and extra index pawls. You'll need em.

I just hit 15,000 rounds of 9mm on my s1050 and have never replaced an index pawl. It looks like the index pawl is the part that actually rotates the shell plate at the end of the handle up stroke. What causes them to go bad? Wear?

I bought a spare parts kit, but it doesn't have an index pawl in it.

The 1050 spare parts kit sucks. It contains few of the parts that do break and lots of ones that I can't imagine ever breaking. It seems like the criteria for what was included was "hey we have a lot of extra of these".

The index pawl can bend/break due to a partially decapped primer jamming the shell plate, or a not fully seated primer.

It can also happen if you adjust the undocumented "index limit" set screw too far in, which just makes the pawl ram into it at the end of the index. This is a very long set screw that many people don't even realize exists under station 6 that limits the index action to prevent over indexing. If you have a motorized press just take this set screw out immediately, and use your stroke adjustment and shellplate nut tension to adjust indexing action.

Oh the index pawl is something soft as well, either zinc or aluminum. It gets scored by the shellplate quickly and definitely after the first jam it hits.

Thanks...

I didn't know about the index limit set screw, but I don't have a motor either...

Guess I better buy a couple... Now that I know about it I'll probably need one...

[jmorris]

Buy the maintenance kit, and extra index pawls. You'll need em.

I just hit 15,000 rounds of 9mm on my s1050 and have never replaced an index pawl. It looks like the index pawl is the part that actually rotates the shell plate at the end of the handle up stroke. What causes them to go bad? Wear?

I bought a spare parts kit, but it doesn't have an index pawl in it.

He is running an autodrive. I haven't had to buy any myself (after who knows how many thousands of rounds), also running autodrives but I can see how they can be damaged if the clutch is set too tight.

I can see how a 1050 could be overwhelming for a new to progressive loader person, or even one who has been loading for a while. Just treat it like another press and start setting it up one station at a time. You will have a lot better luck than just filling everything up and start cranking.

Think of it more like a racecar and less like a microwave. A little testing and tuning is required vs. throwing the popcorn bag in and hitting the button.

I understand the frustration though, just take a breath, walk away and get back to it when the frustration subsides.

Edited July 11, 2014 by jmorris

[John Wayne]

You should post your location in the profile area on the left. I have had members here bring brand new machines over and place them on my bench. An hour later all is well and they're on their way, friends for life.