darkmod

I don't buy powder from local businesses unless its an emergency or I really wanna buy just 1 pound to do some testing. I was fortunate enough to stock up pretty well before the panic hit and I haven't run out yet. I did buy a couple pounds of CFE pistol because my local range had them for $29 and I really want to try it. Pistol powder seems to last forever, Im just now finishing an 8 lb jug of 231 ive had since before the panic. Still have plenty of bullseye and unique. 8lb jug of h110 still has like 20% left too. Im sitting pretty until powder valley is stocked up again.

Ok, ive moderately fixed the situation. The jam was primer related, i had to raise the lever while jiggling the primer shuttle arm and it went into the up position. From there i was able to dissasemble (and learn alot about the priming assembly in the process) an reassemble everything again. That fixed the jamming problem, the shellplate stil flings powder everywhere, ive tightened it down to the point the shellplate locks, then backed off 1/8 of a turn. No avail. I will just have to reconcile myself with the fact that i need to operate the 1050 much smoother, and therefore slower, than a 650. If i go super slow there is a very minimal amount of powder spillage, but now im thinking i just chuck this thing off a cliff, buy another 650 toolhead, and load on the 650. If it wasnt for the swaging operation i would have thrown this thing in the garbage disposal already. Or maybe there is a clever way to only prep my brass on the 1050 and load on the 650, that would fix the problem i guess since there would be no powder charge to spill. Only bummer is id have to prelube the cases and make a mess of my case feeder

Great guys! Thanks! I'm going to try all these suggestions. I live in Tustin, ca by the way. I was loading .223 when this happened and when the press fully locked I was trying to cycle an empty Shellplate.

Hi guys, been having nothing but trouble with my 1050 since I got it. I'm about to throw it off a cliff Long story short: I'm still not able to cycle the machine without it throwing powder everywhere. I bought a bearing system that just created more problems, when I uninstalled it, it ran strangely for like 20 rounds then jammed somehow..... The toolhead wouldn't go down more than halfway without feeling like it hit a rock, I didn't force it because it was a very affirmative stop that it came to. At any rate, I took the tool head off along with the Shellplate and sprayed, vacuumed, and cleaned everything. Put it all back together and not it won't go up more than 3/4 of the way. It won't go all the way down either. It did crush a .223 case right at the shoulder though, it's literally stuck between 1/2 and 3/4 of its stroke. I'm at my wits end with this thing. I'd call dillon but they only happen to be open at the exact times I'm at work, and they are closed when I happen to get off work. Any help?

Ok I removed the bearing last night and fiddled with the tightness of the nut until I got it fairly smooth. I found the opposite of what everyone was telling me: that looser was better. Ill see what happens when its full of brass and if the problem persists ill tighten it down more. Thanks for the help guys!

Sounds good to me, I think ill remove the washer and fiddle with it until its smooth. Thanks!

Hi guys! I was having a powder spilling issue caused by jerky shellplate rotation. On the recommendation of another forum member, I bought and installed a circular bearing washer between the shellplate and nut. The shellplate now rotates a bit smoother, but now im getting pressure at the bottom of the stroke. Its akin to what you feel when you screw down a sizing die a little past where the shellplate meets it to get camover. I cant really tell where the pressure is coming from since the sizing die mouth is right up on the shellplate, but im thinking maybe the nut is meeting the toolhead prematurely from the extra space generated by the 1mm thick washer. At any rate, its kind of bothering me, and im prepared to remove it if none of you can figure out a remedy for me. If I remove it, is there a better option for smoother shellplate rotation? I noticed the 1050 has a ball bearing much like the 650, and I know a common remedy is to clip half a coil of the spring. Is that a viable option on the 1050? The other thing is does anyone prep their .223 brass on the 1050 and load on the 650? Im thinking this may be an option, but I cant see how it would work without having to prelube the cases. Currently I prep on the 650 using an rcbs lube die, size/decap, Dillon 1200 trimmer in that order. I then tumble to remove the lube and burrs from the brass, and dump them into the 1050 with a universal decapping die instead of a sizing die to eliminate having to lube the brass (the decapper is just to punch out any media stuck in the flash hole). Any wisdom from you guys would be greatly appreciated.

If you are loading pistol adding the roller bearing to the shell plate makes the spiliing go away. If your loading rifle, what powder are you using? Tell your not using varget. Of course im using varget haha. Other powders i use would be 4895 and benchmark. They are all very simlilarly profiled and have similar charges. I know spherical powder meters better in a dillon measure, but thats a little depressing that i cant use extruded powders in the finest home reloading progressive press ever made. Maybe i should use the hornady powder measure with the 1050, never had a problem with it

Yeah lol, that was the pic i took when i had everything mounted. I destroyed the small powder bar trying to drop the appropriate charge, and have since removed the powder measure paperwork and installed the large powder bar. Ive tinkered with the 1050 a bit more and have it pumping out .223 like a champ. The one thing holding me back is it flinging powder. That and its propensity to let extruded powder dump when the handle is raised. Im going to have to come to terms with using a ball powder i guess.

The priming system push rod is threaded into the tool head, not trying to be anal but it will help with describing future issues using the names Dillon gave them.Powder will drop almost instantly. Loading a round with a small case mouth (like .223) using an extruded powder (Varget, most IMR powders and others) can cause bridging. The powder measure drops the charge but some or all of it may get held in the drop tube as the "sticks" clog the mouth. When you lower the case (or with the 1050 raise the tool head) the backed up powder then has somewhere to go and falls onto the shell plate. If the powder is bridging like this, no amount of dwell will help. However, a ball powder like 748, TAC, x termanator and others will not bridge like the extruded powders will. What powder are you using? On the 1050 you can't complete the stroke if the shell plate is not lined up. Dowels in the tool head must pass through holes in the shell plate, so I don't see that being your problem. This is a video of my .223 1050 loading, no waiting on the powder. Yeah I think you hit the nail on the head: I use almost exclusively extruded powders for .223. Mainly varget and 4895, sometimes benchmark. I began working up loads with blc2 a few years ago and didn't finish the process.

Sorry about that, im in Orange County, California. Ive actually recieved several offers already to help which i greatly appreciate. The BE forums seem like an excellent community. A bit of an update: Ive adjusted my primer seating depth to my liking, and it couldnt have been easier. Its just a single allen screw on top of the shellplate. I came to terms with having to adjust the dies, mostly because its not an unreasonable requirement and it only took a couple of minutes. The biggest problem im still having is powder spillage, so i have a few options to look into i guess. Havent even bothered messing with the swaging arm, I havent noticed any difficulty in priming (But maybe i wouldnt on a 1050...) so ill just take it at its word that its working properly. The other thing thats kind of an even bigger problem is periodically the powder measure will dump half the charge onto the shellplate when i lift it up. Im pretty sure im leaving it in the down position long enough for the powder to spool all the way through the charge bar. Its happened twice and now i have quite a bit of powder in the little nooks and crannies of the press. By the way, heres a picture of my current setup (I always appreciated it when others posted pictures)

Thanks guys, I think I just need to put in my time and learn the thing from the ground up. I don't really expect Brian or dillon to do anything because the machine isn't defective, the defect lies in my expectations. I can see that it would be quite rewarding once it's going good, so I'll use the forum or dillon ca to tackle the problems one at a time till I'm happy. And just to remove any confusion: the powder measure came with the small charge bar installed, I was using a wrench the nut for my desired charge and it went to the end of the travel then snapped the nut. I then realized I needed to change out the charge bar but the dillon instructions weren't easy to follow and it led to a lot of frustration.

I was feeling a little whimsical last month and bought a 1050. I had been on the fence about it for a long time due to the price and 1 year warranty, but I was prepared to make the investment to have the convenience of swaging primer pockets on the press, and also have a fine machine that is faster than a 650. Caliber changes are incredibly expensive, but its ok, because I know it will be set up to do .223 and nothing else. What really sealed the deal for me was that it came with dies and was, according to Dillon, set up from the factory to produce a SAMI spec round. I wouldn't have to fiddle an unfamiliar machine to regulate primer seating depth, swage depth etc.. I could just buy the thing and it would be ready to go. This would give me time to learn the 650 I bought with it and I could still produce .223 ammo while I progressed through the learning curve of the 650. Oh Dillon 1050, how you have disappointed me! let me count the ways: 1. The instructions are terrible. Half the time your staring at a schematic flipping back and forth to instruction page to see what they are talking about. For someone who has never used a 1050 (Or a Dillon machine at all in my case) this adds an hour to the setup time. 2. You would think a machine set up at the factory to produce a SAMI spec .223 round would come with a powder measure capable of throwing a 21+ grn charge of powder. Not so. You are practically forced to mangle the small powder bar in Dillons maddeningly overcomplicated powder measure system armed only with the vaguest directions from Dillons 1050 owners manual. OAL of a trimmed piece of .223 brass shouldn't vary enough that you would have to adjust the powder die either, but lo and behold it required quite a bit of adjustment. 3. For a machine set up from the factory to produce a SAMI spec .223 round the primers seat EXTREMELY proud. So much for not having to tinker with a strange new priming system. I expected to have to adjust the seating die a bit to compensate for the variation in ogive, but the 1050 came set up from the factory to produce a round that was significantly longer than COAL. I don't even know if its swaging primer pockets correctly, so now I have to fiddle with the swaging rod too to make sure its actually doing what its supposed to. 4. The machine FLINGS powder if you don't return the handle with the utmost smoothness. This results in the machine operating slower than a 650. The remedies to this include altering my powder charge so the case isn't as full, and performing surgery on the machine to clip a spring. Ive got my charge where I like it so im not changing it, and it will be less frustrating for me to just load on the 650 and swage the primer pockets the old fashioned way than to disassemble the whole machine and hope I put it back together right. I expected more from Dillon on this, I paid $1700 for a press that is essentially a 650 with a built in primer pocket swager, only its slower and only comes with a 1 year warranty. If I cant find a relatively easy fix for these problems im getting rid of it and buying a couple new guns.

Captial advise, i shall try it forthwith

Hi Guys! I suppose this will be my first post here. At any rate, ive traded in my hornady ammo plant and bought a 650 and a 1050. Im using the 650 to trim brass with a dillon 1200 trimmer. My problem originates when the case drops onto the shuttle guide (im not sure if this is the correct nomenclature). Fairly often the shuttle that slides the brass in to station 1 will jiggle it before it contacts the rails and cant it sideways resulitng in the brass falling over by the time it reaches the shellplate. Ive looked around and cant find an adjustment to make the shuttle move slower, maybe i can trim the spring that pulls the whole assembly towards the shellplate? Ive only had the 650 for a few days so im not terribly familiar with it. Im running .223 through it by the way, and the press came from dillon set up for .223 if that helps.