Brassaholic13

Nope, it's just poor tolerances by Dillon. Your press is just like every other press out there. Bearings should have an interference to light press fit. In reality, you don't have a bearing, you have a bushing.

As designed on our press in house, it has 0.020" based on SAAMI specifications. We cannot help manufacturing tolerances of the press manufacturer, unfortunately. Only so much we can do. Glad you found something that works. Yes, plastic is often difficult to file, but most people try to use metal files. Wood files work better.

File the slot. Not all Dillon's are machined the same, unfortunately.

First, have a spare on hand in case you cut off too much. Then, remove the entire bottom "base" coil. From there, start cutting 1/4 coil off at a time. Usually 1/4 or 1/2 of a coil will suffice. The goal is to remove tension from the coil. The spring's only job is to keep the index arm from dragging the shell plate backwards. Any pressure more than that only contributes to shell plate snap. Bearings/O-rings, and low mass detent balls are also gimmicks.

More items to lighten your wallet and not address the issue. If you want to smooth the indexing, tune the index spring. It's way over powered and is what causes the snap. Everything else is a gimmick.

That's not a boring bar. That's an end mill with a "socket" over it.

That's because Titan didn't do a good job at copying the Honey Badger. There's a bit more to it than just the outer dimensions and putting a hole in the center.

Dillon has engineers? Since when? They have yet to figure out what clearance to use on a bearing to bore on the 1050. The slowest speed on the Bosch is 8k, and it leaves a perfect cut.

Bearing kits increase snap, as do the lightweight balls. Those parts are designed to do nothing but lighten your wallet. Gimmicks. Putting grease under your shell plate is doing nothing but asking for problems by collecting dirt. If you want to decrease snap, tune the detent ball spring. The detent ball is only there to prevent reverse rotation of the shell plate when the index arm retracts. Any additional pressure above and beyond that only contributes to shell plate snap.

Wayne, to advertise here, you have to pay.

Bronze isn't a metal? Hmm....

Right off their page. I've printed the carbon fiber filament, and it's some damn tough stuff. I'd use it to print a polymer frame if I had the need/desire. Supported materials – PLA, ABS, PET, HIPS, Flex PP, Ninjaflex, Laywood, Laybrick, Nylon, Bamboofill, Bronzefill, ASA, T-Glase, Carbon-fibers enhanced filaments, Polycarbonates...

My Prusa can print metal filament.

No idea, I didn't buy something to tinker with, or a facsimile thereof. As such, I have no experience with the A8, other than to see people constantly asking for help with it on the Facebook 3d printing groups. I've had my MK2 Prusas, upgraded to MK2S specs now for almost two years. No issues. I slice the models I want to print, load them onto the memory card, and hit print. Prints come out dimensionally accurate every time.

Buy once, cry once. I have a pair of genuine Prusa MK2s printers. https://www.prusa3d.com/ If you hate the Lee Loadmaster, buying a cheap 3d printer is not for you.

When you're using it to make money, you figure out how to do things a bit quicker.

Yeah, and? It takes about 20 minutes to clean one.

Well, if it was on an auto-drive, 20k per day in a production facility.

I have a Hornady... It's a POS.

If he's only loading 100 or so rounds, he may as well use his fingers.

So, you want someone to steal the design and print it, because why again?

Check the shuttle. Make sure the very end is not bent outwards. Check to make sure it's square.

If it's getting stuck all the way to the rear, most likely the "Hook" has been bent outwards, towards the ram.

Yup.

Put 2 more 1/4" holes in the bottom, 90 degrees from the mounting holes. They were added about a year ago to allow vacuum to be pulled through the trimmer adapter, preventing swarf pull up by the end mill.