gigs

I agree with that. The only case insert issue that can damage rims is it they aren't fully inserting and then they advance while not being fully in the shellplate so that the next station button forces them in at an odd angle. Can also be caused by debris in the shell plate not allowing them to fully seat. But you'd probably notice that since it causes a big racket and sometimes cases fly out when that happens. A damaged shellplate could cause it (for example crushed by a stray decapper pin), but you'd notice it most likely because the brass wouldn't freely enter and exit one station. Check each shellplate station for easy insertion and removal, and take a little piece of wire or a dental pick and run it around the bottom of each case holder groove to clean it and check for burrs/damage.

They are 1050 rods. The tips are the same as far as I know though, and that's what wears out.

I told him to call you guys so hopefully he took care of it. Thanks for the confirmation.

Yeah I'm aware the really old ones had a different design, but the newest design should still have them right?

I had a customer call me to say that Dillon has changed the design of the case feeder, and that his was missing the metal tab that I recommend sticking an allen wrench under for 300 blackout in my listing for the shim washer: I told him closing that window is far more important than tweaking the shell plate height and not to buy the thin shim washer until he calls Dillon to confirm that the metal tab really isn't supposed to be there. He never got back to me. I see that the curved plate goes inside the bowl on their feeder on some pictures on their web site (as opposed to being screwed at the top), so they have revised the design, but is it really the case that the metal tab on the dropping window isn't supposed to be there anymore?

Yeah, they wear out. I have quite a collection.

He did say 9mm so swaging might be an issue. Depends on if he wants to sort out mil stuff.

You can carefully bend the end of the switch lever out slightly with two thin screwdrivers to give it a little more solid action and prevent it getting stuck if it happens again or if you start getting overruns because it's not closing. Just a little bit is all you need.

Sorry to necropost, but my order from April 2014 still hasn't been filled. He did email me in February after I posted here, but I haven't heard anything since.

On my motor presses the nuts do get loose sometimes. I still use the Dillon style nuts, but I got a 1 inch deep socket so I can get them tight easily and loosen them easily without busting my knuckles any more. The GSI wrench is nice as well, but the socket makes it easy on the dies that aren't really tall.

With 45 pistol and not actually swaging you shouldn't need the clutch really tight. The only time you really need to crank the clutch on a drive tight is when you are doing actual swaging or sizing rifle brass.

I have a heck of a time with CCI #41. Brass has to be swaged really good to take them. I prime brass with them because people seem to want them, but man they are annoying.

Aren't they clear anyway? The only issue is that the clamp might crack the polycarbonate if you don't pad it. Normal non-transparent hoppers are HDPE or the like so they aren't brittle.

I was working on a whole decapper die to fight suck-back, but the prototype was a hassle to use. I need to take it back to the drawing board. In the mean time you can bevel and polish your decapping pins and help with this to a large extent.

There's several ways to mount it: High mounting option, sorry for bad picture:

Yeah I agree his problem isn't just the sticking, but the sticking does happen. Usually results in rings or punctured primers though, not broken or stuck pins.

Milkmyduds yes the primers can "glue" in if they dry too slowly or you wait too long before decapping. It's best to dry as quickly as possible and decap promptly (within a week ideally). I wet wash with primers in but I tumble dry the outsides then oven dry in a PID temperature controlled oven at 230F. They are completely dry in less than an hour. Be careful trying to emulate this with a regular oven though, often the temperature sensor is at the top and the heating element is at the bottom. If you put too much cold wet brass in between the two, the heating element can stay on for a long period of time and give your brass some surface pinking from radiated heat (guess how I know). If I were doing it in a regular oven, I'd cut the temperature down to 150F, make sure to let it preheat fully, and leave them in much longer (2 hours or more). Just setting them out overnight does not dry primer pockets in most climates. Around here they'd take 2-3 days to dry naturally with primers in. You can decap them while still slightly wet and that doesn't hurt much, and then they do dry much faster (within an hour or so after being decapped in my experience).

I seriously doubt you have broken a part of the main machine assembly. If you had any idea of the abuse I put my motorized 1050s through! It is possible you switched a universal decapping die with one that has a neck expander ball? That could cause a catch on the upstroke if this is rifle. You didn't say if it was rifle or pistol that I saw.

I'll take another one. It depends a little on how you set it up, but because it's convex it's not super sensitive to the angle you view it from.

http://ballistictools.com/store/dillon-press-enhancements/Brass-See I have these up for sale now. Lets you see into the hopper without straining. I built one for myself and thought other people might want one too.

I've managed to video, in slow motion, primer suck-back. This is where a primer sticks on the end of the decapping pin which can cause it to draw back into the primer pocket causing a jammed progressive press.

Drum tumblers actually work best when they are about 80% full. Same with vibratory tumblers, most of them work best when nearly full as well (as full as you can get it with the brass still "rolling over")

Caliber change on the 650 isn't really more involved than the 550. Consider just buying case feeders for your 550s if you don't already have them. You really won't gain that much speed going from a 550 with case feeder to a 650 with one, and you'll have a raft of new problems to deal with. The 650 has what I consider the highest learning curve of any Dillon press.

The new ones just break the linkage cam thing instead of the shaft. The shaft is $105 from Dillon. I believe the linkage is even more.

35 pounds is enough torque for even rifle?