Why1504

No question get the 1050 with the 223 dies installed. I find the Lee pistol dies to be great. I have found the Dillon 223 dies to be the best.

When I ordered my 1050 I ordered the Powder Check. I unwrapped it but never installed it. You can use one with the a Bulletfeeder but you need a combo seater/crimp die. I am almost certain you can load lead with Mr. Bulletfeeder but I haven't done this. I only load copper.

One last thing, you want the Dillon 223 carbide dies. And I would skip the Powder Check.

Nice... Where do you think the best place to buy a Mr. Bullet Feeder is at? I got mine from Shooters Connection.

Bobby, I would reach out to Brian or go directly to Dillon. That's a long list and there are different ways to approach how you fulfill this list. Honestly, I would get the press with one caliber install it, get it running and run a few thousand rounds. Next get a Mr. Bulletfeeder and get it working. Then add all the rest. It may not take you that long to get it all running t that's how I would approach it.

This has improved every aspect of the operation of my 1050. It has solved multiple small problems.

Over the holidays one of my goals has been to stabilize my 1050. This began with adding another layer of plywood to the top, more screws into the wall... All the normal stuff. This did help but not as much as expected. I got my best results from adding a brace to the case feeder. Instead of following the pack and bracing to the wall, we angled this down to the table. The press doesn't move at all now. The brace is set at about a 60 degree angle from the top of the case feeder square tube down to the table. We used aluminum square tube with a U bolt at the top and a fabbed angle bracket at the bottom that is screwed into the table.

The plunger is not binding at all. There is plenty of grease. I believe the spring is weak. I will call Dillon tomorrow.

My case feeder isn't pushing the shells into the shell plate adequately. I think the spring has worn out. Any suggestions?

I had similar issues when I first got my 550 a few years back. It never really ran great until I completely disassembled the machine. I also disassembled the machine yesterday and carefully lubed the whole machine. I know the complete tear down insured all the moving parts were lubed to the same degree.

Only if you know what you did to cause the improvement. I think it was the smoothing of the primer slide area that made the big difference. I also think I tuned the indexing a bit finer that it was before. This is the first time I had zero primer issues and the machine just ran much smoother.

1500 rounds with zero failures. It looks like I finally am headed down the right path here.

Whatever I did this morning it seams to have gone a long way towards a solution. Over 900 rounds. Zero primer problems only a couple of kernels of powder on the shell plate. I have been going slow. I think I will load another 500 9 MM and see how she loads

All back together. Adjusted the Pawl. Machine feels very smooth. About to load some primers and see how it runs. Maybe I have made some headway.

Thanks Jim. Since you live 5 minutes away can you run over and assist?

This morning I tore the machine all the way down. I found a small high spot it the primer slide. Polished that out. On the timing pawl there are 2 significant grooves. Do I need to order a replacement or can I adjust this out?

IMO powder is the main culprit but I have had the press slow down without powder or a primer Jam (it is bound up now, not much powder on the shell plate). It is worse with 223 (fine powders such as TAC go everywhere, I have never loaded a stick powder on the 1050) no I can't define why. In the last 3 days I did order the bearing and ball kit some have had success with. My bench is double thickness of 3/4 plywood, it is attached to the wall. Should I build a bracket to tie the press to the wall?My work travel will slow over the next month with only one more work trip this year and I hope to sort this out.

Between 800-1200 rounds the machine will stop. This is due to powder (I regularly brush or vacuum the spilled powder), the primer system jams, or the case feeder is locking up bad enough that I have to pull everything apart clean it and restart .

This is what I thought. I wet tumble also. With 223 powders the turnover is shorter, while with Titegroup and 231 it is longer. I will call Dillon again....

AL foil won't do much of anything until you ground it even then it isn't a good shield.First thing I would check is the plugs you are plugged into with a plug tester. Make sure they are wired correctly. Different power strips shouldn't make a difference. If you plugged into different circuits and the were wired differently it could raise hell. My bet is one system or the other has a floating ground. I would try to isolate the case feeder motor from the frame or try to conductivity isolate the case feeder frame from the rest of the system. The UPS might help. you could also try grounding the frame or go to Radio Shack and get a power cord filter.

If you own a Dillon Super 1050 how many rounds do you run between disassembly and cleaning. Generally I have to do this between 800 and 1200 rounds regardless of caliber (223, 9MM, 40 S&W) I normally don't have a bad powder spill except with the 223. If I do, I stop and vacuum it up. After cleaning and re-lubing the press will run fine for another 800-1200 rounds. Primer failure is often the problem but not always.

I have an Accuracy International AT with both a 308 barrel and a 6.5CM barrel. I have made a I mile shot on 18x30 steel with the 6.5 CM barrel and hit steel 5 times in 12.8 seconds at 420 yards. I have not shot PRS but have shot 3 Gun, USPSA, IDPA... I haven't handled the Ruger. This gun represents a junior AIAT. Now, will it perform as fast or as far as my AT? I kinda doubt it but the AI cost 3.5 times as much as the Ruger. The Ruger has some great features, foldable stock, 3 lug bolt, user changeable grips, forearms, etc. You can mount a Magpul PRS stock on it. Honestly I wish it was a bit lighter. I would mount a NF ATACR 4x16 F1 (high end) or a Burris XTR II (low end) on it and go to town. I might look at a lighter forearm. With replaceable barrels, I would bet we will see custom barrels for her at $600-$700 dollars. In short order I expect we will see replacement triggers. The point is, this is going to be a rifle that you can shoot out of the box or hot rod without much effort. I think it is a total winner.

Here is the gun: http://www.shootersconnectionstore.com/STI-40-Tactical-LITE-9x19-Stocked-Item-P2638.aspx Looking at the post above, the barrel is 4.26 inches and I think that puts it out but I am still not sure. The reason I am so interested in this particular gun is I have a 5 inch 2011 in .40 I am using in USPSA that I love. It is not IDPA legal and I wouldn't carry it. The tactical identified above I would be comfortable using as a carry gun as well. In the end, I may be chasing a rainbow and should just buy the Eagle and be done with it.

I am considering the purchase of a STI 2011 Tactical 4.0 in 9MM. This gun has a full length dust cover but it comes from the factory like this. Would it be legal for use as in IDPA competition as an ESP gun? If not, would a custom 2011 without the dust cover that fits int he box be legal? Thanks!

I am thinking one of these choices. My question is bling factor aside what is the reason for chrome plating on the Edge? It is a $300 option after all. On that CRP chrome Edge deal you are basically getting the CRP package ($2,140) with the chrome upgrade for $200 instead of $300. The hard chrome is for durability not for bling.