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adamriser

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Everything posted by adamriser

  1. Don't need to hit the lottery, because saved for a few years and bought it one item at a time... Rifle: JP CTR-02 with a Proof carbon barrel and a XLR stock Optic: Vortex Razor HD II 1-6 Pistol: STI DVC 3 Gun Shotgun: TTI Benelli M2 If money was no object, I would probably get a custom 2011 built, but the STI is pretty damn good. As for the rest, I wouldn't change a thing. Adam
  2. I also use the TTI magwell, and it's great. Way better than the Dawson, which I switched from. It may be a bit hard to do a fast mag change with mags that don't have extensions on them. You can use standard mags, but you can't really drive them home with your palm, you have to push them in with your thumb. And you're really in trouble if they don't fall free.
  3. I've shot the 13 extensively and just got the 15 about a month ago. The new one is a big improvement and definitely worth the wait. Last shot lock back, much bigger magwell, easier mag eject button. I recommend going with the dedicated 9mm milled upper as well. It's extremely nice.
  4. Was the iron sight pistol the way to go, or did I lead you astray?
  5. I used a Way Of The Gun sling and liberal amounts of gaffing tape for my M3000. It worked just fine. You can make that sling work on anything.
  6. Here's a good video from Brian Nelson that will tell you pretty much everything you need to know about running a sling in 3 Gun.
  7. I think you would be better served with an iron-sight pistol. There's a lot in that class about vision that applies specifically to iron sights, and everything else can be applied to either platform. I wouldn't get too wrapped up in practicing before you go. A lot of what you know to be true will change during the course of the weekend. It did for me. There are lots of subtle things going on with stance, grip, and so on that aren't covered in the videos. Hope that help. Have fun at the class. You'll learn a lot. Adam
  8. Be careful that you don't go too budget on glass. Scopes really matter, especially for the long stuff. If you can wait a bit for it to hit the shelves, the new Vortex PST Gen II 1-6 is a great scope, especially for the price. I got a change to play with one last fall, and it impressed me.
  9. MGM Targets. My buddy and I went in 50/50 after we shoot the Ironman a couple years ago.
  10. After doing this to my Razor and not even losing zero, I'm sticking with Vortex...
  11. Having tried loading for spinners, I would warn you against it. The extra hassle of running two loads in no way paid off. Now, I shot the same minor PF load for everything, but I actually know how to shoot spinners. My suggestion, buy a spinner. That's what I did, and it was worth every penny.
  12. I've been running TTI base pads on my AR and my Glock 34 for years. Some are so smashed up from being dropped in gravel that they're barely recognizable, and they still run perfectly. When I got a set for my 43, they threw in some springs just to say thanks. When they accidentally shipped the wrong springs for my full-size glock on a different order, they overnighted the right ones, and spares, so I would have them for a match. When I droped my pistol from my workbench and broke the front sight, I had to talk them into charging me for the replacement, because they tried to warranty it for free, and it was clearly not a warranty issue. So, when the time came to upgrade the shotgun, I didn't think twice about ordering a TTI M2. I have never had anything but extremely positive experiences when working with TTI. Buy the good stuff the first time. You won't regret it.
  13. After fighting with two different shotguns over three years, I finally just gave up and called TTI. Just order direct, have then do the work, and you won't be disappointed.
  14. Squad with the best shooters you can. Ask questions. Watch everyone shoot. Reload your mags the second you are done shooting a stage. Help reset. Do not run out the next day and buy thousands of dollars worth of guns. And, if you decide that 3 Gun is for you, take a class as soon as you can. It will drastically speed to the learning curve and save you tons of time and money in the long run.
  15. I use a Safariland 3 gun case for my guns and loaded mags. I preload the mags the day before, and only loaded mags go into this bag. It also holds chokes and chamber flags, but basically nothing else. I have small screw-top containers to hold the day's pistol and rifle ammo. Shotgun shells stay in factory boxes. My ammo, spare mags, eyes, ears, food, water, and some tools and spare parts ride in a backpack to each stage. In the truck is a large bag with the rarely-needed rifle mags, more parts and tools, and so on. Plus ammo cans of 223, 9mm, and a case of birdshot and lots of slugs. You can never have to much ammo.
  16. For my 20s I use an old MFT coupler from the bottom of seowitz's gear box. I cut the middle out of it so the top and bottom sections could stack close together and fit on the small amount of mag left exposed below the magwell. There are better options, bit it works great.
  17. Stock trigger group, recoil spring, slide release, extractor, sights, and more mags than I could possibly need on a single stage. Plus, I have a whole backup gun just in case I need extra parts or something happens that I can't fix on the range. A
  18. I stuck with duces in matches until my quad loading was constant enough that I could be sure of my load every time. Not only does droping shells add to your stage time, it also has the potential to screw up your load plan if you don't get the right number in the gun before you start shooting again. Running dry with a bird in the air is no fun. Now my quads are now fast and consistent, but there are still times when I will load duces or pull from a 4 shell caddy if the situation calls for it. Every method is valid. Use the one that's the most consistent until you have them all down and can use the one that's most appropriate for the stage.
  19. If you find a cheaper one with an MRAD reticle, I'll trade you straight across for my JM version.
  20. For me, it very much depends on the stage. For a straight-up stand-and-deliver as you describe (shooting only from one location), then I would definitely load first. However, if I need to shoot 8 rounds or less from the first position and then have some movement before the next, then I will generally save the load until I'm moving. Basically, I try to avoid loading while standing still if it's possible. One of the tricks I've picked up for those times when I will load first is to stage the shotgun upside down (lifter up). Not only does this make it very easy for me to pick up the shotgun and throw in a quad (I load weak hand), but it's also a good visual reminder in the event that I forgot I was going to load first. Either way, the 12 round tube is a huge advantage. When it switched from a 9 to a 12 it opened up lots of loading options that were not there before. A
  21. For me the biggest leap in skill I experienced was from taking a class. There are lots of people who can help you shave years off your learning curve. Find one you like, save up the money, and go. Until then, you need to take a hard (and very honest) look at your own performance and figure out the one thing that's costing you the most time. For example, it won't do you much good to shave .2 off your draw if you can't call your shots, have to take three pokes at every popper, and get 5 Ds per stage. Early on I was extremely fast but dropped tons of points. Eventually I figured out that my own problem was in stage programming (as opposed to planning). I would program the pace I imagined shooting, and I found myself shooting that pace regardless of what I saw. Now I program the acceptable sight picture for each shot I plan to fire. The speed ends up being the same in most cases, but now I know where all the bullets went.
  22. I don't run a magnet, so if I need to put 2 on the belt I simply stand where I am going to stand a the buzzer and get a grip on the mags (while they are in the pouches) the same way that I plan to put them back. I index the left one the way I normally do. For the right one I put four fingers on the outside and the thumb on the inside. Then I remove the mags from the pouches, and place them on the table a few inches apart. When the buzzer goes off, I simply reverse the motion. There may be slightly faster ways, but this has been extremely consistent for me. Here it is in action...
  23. Having just switched from the PST to the Rasor HD II, I will tell you that the difference is night and day. It's worth every cent to get the Rasor is your budget allows.
  24. I own a suppressor and a .22 upper for my competition pistol, and I do not use either for practice, only for fun. For both options, the weight and recoil are very different, and the sights will not lift or return in the same manner as they would with unsuppressed/full-power live fire. My suggestion would be to simply do as much dry fire as you can stand, and get in (quality) range time when life allows. But, you should still buy a suppressor
  25. I shot the Viper PST 6-25 with an MRAD reticle for years before I finally threw down the cash to upgrade to a Rasor HD II. For the money, I think the PST is an excellent scope. I've used it to take my .260 AI past 1000 on several occasions without any issues. My only real issue was that I got a bit of glare when the sun was to my front, but simply using the sun shade took care of it. I found the glass to be very good for the money, and I really liked the reticle. But for me, the real seller (and the reason I went to a nicer Vortex and not to another brand) was the customer service I got when I managed to break my PST in shipping. Vortex had it back to me good as new in about a week with no questions asked and not a cent charged. You can't put a price on good service. A
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