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So...why not Mobil 1?


bisonresq

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Anyone using motor oil mixed with slick50? I heard of people using that with good success and would like to try it. If so, what weight oil and what ratio mix are you using? Thanks.

Synthetic ATF is better.

But not as good as Tufoil

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Anyone using motor oil mixed with slick50? I heard of people using that with good success and would like to try it. If so, what weight oil and what ratio mix are you using? Thanks.

Synthetic ATF is better.

But not as good as Tufoil

Interesting read. Using it straight or in a mix with a synthetic oil? Tufoil looks like a competitor to ZMax, which I already use.

One of the benefits of ATF is the better detergent package.

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Odorless Mineral Spirits, Non Chlorinated Brake parts cleaner to remove crud..

Mobile 1 mixed with Lucas transmission fluid to for lube on all my guns ....i mix a light viscosity for cold weather.

or any stuff i get from the price table :ph34r:

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I have used it on and off..........found that if I clean and lube before a shooting session it is great. If I lube and store it runs off, and dries up into a tacky yellow film.

During a shooting session, freshly placed Mobil one is still on a hot barrel, while other lubes have disappeared.

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For oil I like to make a mixture of half mobil 1 with half ATF and half trufoil.

I usually use slide glide on the rails but in the winter time it's too sluggish so I cut 2/3 slide glide lite with 2/5 of the above oil mixture. It's a great combo.

Be sure to heat to ambient temperature... celsius.

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I must have missed the bus on this one but when did motor oil(mobil 1, etc) replace gun oil (hoppe's etc) as a lubricant?

When a bunch of us discovered it works better, and is far less expensive. :)

YEAH! What he said!

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I have used Mobile 1 in the past, and to me the stuff is very slick. However, it may be just me, but I don't think mobile 1 stays where you put it for very long. It is so thin that it runs off the pistol a lot faster than other synthetic gun lubes like Kelube or Militec.

Maybe I was using the wrong weight? 10W-40 is what I was using.

FWIW.

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I use a mixture of FP10 and STP. The FP10/STP combo really stays put. It does not drip out the rear of 1911 frame rails like most oils.

When I run out of FP I will switch to Mobile 1 and STP.

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I love learning new things. I would have never thought to use motor oil on my guns. But as already stated, if it can protect a piston moving 133 miles per hour or 11,000 feet per min and reaching over 1400 degrees then it can protect a gun.

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Try the lubes in dental equipment. Tolerances are much tighter than automobiles and the rpms are many.

Look at this link: www.bluemagicoil.com This stuff is about 1000 times more expansive than Mobil1

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Try the lubes in dental equipment. Tolerances are much tighter than automobiles and the rpms are many.

Look at this link: www.bluemagicoil.com This stuff is about 1000 times more expansive than Mobil1

Paul, why would you want a lube that is more "expansive?" That sounds like my waistline.

As for lubes, as long is it stays put, I'm happy. Nothing like having all the lube run out of your gun on a hot dusty day.

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I am real happy using Castrol motor oil

Just wipe case with whats on your fingers

You can go 5 to 6 cases with the residue left from the first case

I just dip the neck in about 1/8" of oil in a medicine cup

Try it its cheap

DennyB

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A very nice way to deal with the cleaning ritual is a great, small, parts washer that Safety Kleen makes. It is a bench top parts washer that uses automotive "safety solvent". Nice way to deal with the cleaning routine in a very safe and low lead hazard way. The metal cabinet with the pump and filter sits on top of a 5 gallon plastic solvent container, kind of like a "Jerry Can" laying on it's side. The solvent is recirculated through a filter and then a nice stiff bristled brush. Except for seriously baked on carbon, this will strip everything off the metal and render the gun ready to come back together with clean lubricant. It is the most painless way I've ever found. This deals nicely with fire hazards that other methods of using solvents do not. The best part is that whenever the solvent becomes too contaminated to use, you call safety kleen and they sell you a new container of solvent and reprocess the old you return to them. Simple and no noxious disposal problem.

Please remember that solvents of the type discussed above are often "trans-dermal" That is, they can be absorbed through your skin. Because they also denature your skin, it makes it easy for the solvent to carry a "payload" think lead and other troublesome byproducts of shooting. Many of these, once in your system target liver, kidney's and central nervous system preferentially. At least wear nitrile mechanics gloves. They are cheap and relatively impermiable for this application. The standard ones are blue but there are newer ones that are black and are thicker. They will hold up to multiple uses.

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In one of those one ounce squeeze bottles you get with the super duper gun oils mix half and half Mobil 1 and Militec. So far, so good.

I will surely get cancer one of these days because as a mechanic who has soaked his hands and other body parts in various used oils, greases, automotive paint reducers, solvents, cleaners et al for well on 38 years now, I must be a walking candidate for something nasty.

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