gino_aki

There have probably been a lot of threads started like this one, so sorry if this is "old hat" but I'm feeling a bit put out at Old Man Time. Oboy, I'm doing it aren't I? Throwing in all the lame "old" references. Anyway, age related physical issues have contributed to my not really shooting a match since last year's state match and I sucked at that one, too. I mean, REALLY sucked. And the old bod just hasn't recovered since then and seems unlikely to on account of the issues actually getting worse no matter what I try to do to remedy them. I never thought I'd have to give up active competition this early. Waiting on summer to get here and if I can't even go surfing anymore on Maui's south shore I may just give up and pack it in already. Had to give up winter surf because I just didn't feel confident enough to charge anymore...nevermind not being able to get down the cliff at Honolua. What I wouldn't give to be able to be transplanted into a twenty-three year old clone body. Oh, well. Stay in the present, guys, the future will arrive to kick you in the butt soon enough. A hui hou, Skye

I have that cheat!

It's perfectly legal, to answer the original question and several members of my local club do it. I am still waiting for the time the gun goes "bang" when they do it while I'm holding the timer, and the odds are on my side. Granted it hasn't happened in my 34 years with this game but there's always that first time.... As for "Make Ready" procedure, I just load up and holster. If after this long, I don't know what my sights/dot look like superimposed over a target at whatever distance I'd pull a sight picture on, I should probably just get out.

Troy sent back our stages for the State Match we have coming up noting I had to re-word all the WSB's (I'd submitted the stages before the 2019 Rules went into effect) to state that "safety applied" had to be added by rule, amongst other things. I couldn't find the rule he meant either under 3.2 or 8.1. I queried him after I made the changes about what rule he meant, seeing how "safety on" is the default ready condition for all single action firearms including PCC's. My question concerned why it would be necessary to include such wording in a WSB for PCC's when it doesn't have to be for handguns. The only reason I could parse out (since he didn't answer my question) was that it was a safety precaution since PCC is the only Division in handgun competition where the firearm starts in hand. Not sure what this adds to the thread except that perhaps it bolsters the "false start" interpretation and not the DQ.

Totally off topic, but the only restriction I want to see lifted in Production is allowing slides and frames with Accu-rails.

I also found out Area 6 is going to be on or near the weekend of our match? We're getting a lot of requests to withdraw. Oh, well. There's always two years from now, since we host on Maui for odd-numbered years. For those who are still attending...mahalo.

I'm surprised there was only one mention of the "other" Jerry. Barnhart won a bunch of WS's and Nationals too. And his battles with Rob were legendary.

I took the OP's question as asking what to recommend to a NEW shooter...of which I see some every month in my IPSC 101 class who really ARE novices at anything to do with guns, let alone USPSA-type shooting. Being in a restricted state myself, I have started to recommend L-10 to them. It starts them out in a division that they can use pretty much any stock as well as customized gun they may own or acquire, they can modify their gun to make it easier to handle, and they can use whatever rig and equipment placement they want that meets the distance from belt rules. This helps to remove or allay some of the sensory overload they will experience at their first few matches...where I'm sure being competitive is not one of their priorities since I hammer into them the importance of safety, and the crawl-walk-run method of advancement. Anything that contributes to easier gun-handling while they're concentrating on safely negotiating the stages is a plus in my book...they're more likely to have a successful day and return. I actually tell them that Production division as it has evolved is an expert's division, given the level of accuracy and speed one needs to attain to be "competitive." I also stress the importance of training at home; if they only touch their guns at the range (like I do) they will only BE average like I am. If they want to proceed with other divisions anyway, I just tell them it will take even more practice at home. As they progress and become better at shooting and running stages they can always challenge themselves by moving to Production. Or Revolver.

We're getting a bunch of drops...some because apparently Area 6 is going to be held the same weekend, and others because folks say they can't afford it. Oh, well.

My Taurus .38 Super was unramped, unsure if the 9mm is also, but it would seem likely.

After shooting with the beveled profiles that come on Novak Lo-Mounts both fixed and adjustable, I find that going back to the big blade on my Bo-Mars just felt like I was hiding too much of the target...so I beveled the corners on all my Bo-Mars and LPA's. I don't know if I shoot any better but I like seeing as much of the target as I do with them set up like this.

Nope, I'm still using the OEM that came with the gun...traditional style but tuned like it's supposed to be as far as the hook, polishing and tension.

No. Both the allen head and torx head ones strip out the holes under any normal type torque when tightening. Aluminum will fail at the threads, either welding themselves to the bushings, or worse bushings to frame. Get quality steel ones and save yourself the headaches.

Depending upon how you set up your extractor and ejector, .38 Super and Super Comp will run the same, at least they do in my gun. Unloading mags is a bit harder with Super than SC, but that's the only discernable difference I've run across.

I have a railed Taurus: Only the frame, slide, grip and thumb safeties, and slide stop remain. Aluminum mainspring housing ICE magwell, G.I. length polymer guide rod, Dawson fixed sights, titanium fire control (yeah, I know you can't find them anymore, but other lightweight alternatives exist), plastic trigger. Undercut the trigger guard and finished the checkering. Shooting Star mags with the Shaw type plastic pads. Comes in at 42.5 oz on the nose. It is the stainless slide and frame, not sure if that makes a difference. What DOES is the fact that the frame has the large cut-outs in the grip portion like the original Colts. That meant I didn't need to lighten the slide...but I could have, with flat or tri topping. If the SA has the same features, it should be doable.

Hey Guys, Well, I haven't been here in forever... Anyway, our State Match is up on Practiscore and USPSA but the last time I looked, I don't think Troy had approved our Level II status. Ten stages plus chrono, two days in half-day shooting format. I believe we're doing trophies and perhaps modest prizes and that's mostly because we in VISSC all suck at asking for prizes. I noticed another (closed) thread about traveling here from a potential entrant and I won't deny that the registration process is a little annoying, but I'm pretty sure that those who've come to shoot it in past years will tell you they had a good time. And it is Maui, after all. You can take what HI5-0 said as most accurate. The place you go from the airport is 55 Mahalani Street, Wailuku HI 96793. Park in the lot, go in the glass doors facing the flagpole and turn right. At the windows to Records, inform the person who's there that you need to register your gun(s). Have an appropriate photo ID: driver's license or passport. You will also need proof of citizenship, like a birth certificate (yes, I KNOW). The $42.00 FBI Rapback fee has to be in a certifiable form like a cashier's check or cash. The person will give you a form to fill out with the gun's info: caliber, barrel length, S/N, etc. or she may just ask you to open the case and take it herself as she gets the S/N. Once you're through, you don't ever have to re-register that gun or pay the fee again...good if you DO have a good time and wanna come back sometime. As of right now, the match is full, and we're wait-listing people, but only about two-thirds have paid so I expect there to be slots if you want to get in. If you REALLY want to come shoot with us, drop me a line and I'll see what I can do. Any other questions, same thing. Aloha, Skye p.s. Any questions about that signature, especially if you remember me differently, just ask.

What he said. Even better with a .38 Super shooting minor. I don't even gotta change mags. I just get to shoot twice on everything which means I get to try out two stage plans, and shoot for four minutes versus two. Makes the four hours setting up and tearing down more worth it somehow.

If you can find a tungsten one piece go with that, however some of them were brittle and would break...other than that any of the one piece ones from EGW or Wilson should work.

I use our Forum sponsor's Slide Glide on my mainsprings (the light one). Works great and keeps me buying the stuff... Other places to save weight: look for a brand whose frame mimics the original Colt in the grip frame area...with the full cut-outs. Use a grip safety that has the contouring cuts on the sides like an STI's. Use a plastic (if you can find one...I bought ten on eBay and have not changed out or seen any appreciable wear on the one I'm using since I put it in when I built the gun...and put on a CP buff just for peace of mind but it doesn't even look like I needed to) STANDARD length guide rod. Use a thin flange bushing, and cut off as much from the other end as you feel comfortable with...you only really need about a 1/4" of skirt. Use a Commander size spring guide plug with the hole in the end for a FGR. If you don't need the fancy high fiber optic front and bulky adjustable rear, go to lower profile fixed. You need ambi's use the tactical profile ones. If you have to machine: the slide can lose a lot of metal, but so can the frame. If your front strap isn't checkered, have it done and the trigger guard undercut and contoured. Mill or Dremel out the grip frame under the stocks like the original Colt (go to Caspian's site and look at their "classic" frame if you don't know what I mean). If you're going minor, consider contouring your barrel like the old Springfield Armory ones, or even going to a pencil barrel profile (like the original 9mm Commander barrels) with a custom bored thin flange bushing from EGW. Bevel the pin side hole for your slide stop and then cut the slide stop off flush with the frame. Have your barrel crowned with a deep, flush with the bushing bevel like Wilson does theirs. Have your gun "melted," will save some weight and also make it feel more comfortable...might even make it slicker out of your holster. Are you feeling rich? Use one of Caspian's titanium frames in your next build. Finally, if you're good enough or want an even tougher challenge...build your gun in Commander length. You can really push the rules if you do that since the 'bull barrel" length is only .05 inches shorter than a standard commander barrel. Use a railed government length frame, cut a government slide to proper length and you can go bull barrel with a full length guide rod with pretty much no worries on weight...and can still use all the other weight saving stuff above if you need to.

My Taurus railed .38 Super comes in at 42.5 oz. with CMC mag and a Shaw pad. Weight saving: Titanium fire control including older STI Titanium hammer (love them things and snap them up every time I see them on eBay), Dawson gap Ice magwell with the aluminum mainspring housing, a plastic standard length guide rod with commander size spring plug made for full length guide rod (hole in the end), and the Taurus frame itself since it has the same large cutouts in the grip portion of the frame that original Colt frames have. I could save more weight if I need to with lighter stocks (standard VZ Gunners) or lightening up the slide by flat or tri-topping it.

I know custom guns from the awesome gunsmiths that everybody has named inspire great pride of ownership and confidence since it'd be more likely it won't be a lemon...but what about the one you customize yourself? Does that still count? Even if you can't make it it as pretty as the ones you can buy, does it matter if it shoots? I still get a kick out of finishing higher on the overall with one of my frankenguns over someone else with a purchased custom.

I must be the last dinosaur shooting my SS in .38 Super. But I also have a .45 And a .40 L-10 gun that would only need a barrel, and magwell swap. .38 Super just gives me peace of mind on feeding. None of them are guns you can buy as they are all frankenguns I put together myself. The .45 is the most accurate and I actually do better with it since I need points being so slow now. Yeah, .38 Super and Comp is expensive but I shoot at a good club where I get most of it back. The club is also small enough that classes don't matter...order of finish rules even if the PCC guys skew the results since they're the only ones who can shoot hi-cap. I'll finish one or two places higher with the .45 than the .38 Super.

If you're considering entering our match there are still quite a few slots open...and still time to get fairly cheap airfare. We'd like to have your entries by February 3rd if you want a match shirt in your size. I know a lot of major matches are happening around that time frame, thought we'd avoided that. Oh well. For those that are coming, we'll see you in March. Aloha.