GunCat

When you reassemble the trigger group into the receiver you must press the bolt release (blue button) in toward the receiver, and hold it in, while you insert the trigger group. This will let all the internal parts line up correctly (and not cause the lock up you originally experienced)

Right handed gun? Either direction will work, but it's easier to push up from the bottom (so the pin exits at the ejection port)

He's right ya know (to quote Morgan Freeman) I keep a 21” barrel and matching length + 5 tube (8 rounds total in the tube) around for the Blue Ridge Mountain match because that match's' rules only allow the gun to hold 8 in the tube - and you are often shooting from confined spaces. Any other match and I use a 26” barrel with a longer 12 round tube (I started out with a matching length 10 round tube but the ability to load 4 after the buzzer often just works so well)

Is the forearm contacting the receiver? When fully assembled the forearm will overhang the reciever just a bit (see the recess inside the forearm)

Position the bolt about half way open ( or half way closed) and the barrel should fully move into place

From the Generation III Facebook page on Aug. 29: Here you go folks. Round count is as follows: 72 rifle, 75 pistol, 65 shot, 3 00buck, 8 slugs, 38 choice of pistol/shot, 10 choice of pistol/rifle, 8 choice of pistol/rifle/shot. You will need a sling for your rifle. Furthest shot is 375 this year.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/143559/kick-eez-recoil-pad-prefit-kz111-benelli-m-1-field-super-black-eagle-franchi-auto-verimax-912-stoeger-black

I saw New4John's 1301 a couple of times while we were chasing this demon. Somewhere between a new trigger group and a new lifter his problem (knock on wood) went away. The weird thing is I put his lifter on my personal 1301and it has never had an issue. I suspect an issue with the specific geometry of the lifter, cartridge latch and carrier catch plunger (#83 on the Brownells schematic) but I can't pinpoint the exact culprit.

I vote for a soft Limbsaver or Kick Eez pad too.

I use a JP trigger, DPMS hammer,and ramped bolt in my 9mm AR

Add another broken inertia spring to the count. A local shooter just called to tell me his M3K spring broke. He had less than 500 rounds through the gun.

When you shoulder the gun do you see any of the ventilated rib in your sight picture? (all other things being equal and assuming you see any of the rib in sight picture then...the more rib your see the higher the guns shoots...so see less of the rib and the POI will move lower)

If you can legally purchase a gun (ie: fill out a 4473) and your local zoning, HOA, etc. does NOT prohibit a business at your location you can generally get a FFL if you have a need. You CAN use you home address, or have the local authority, planning commission, whoever, assign an address to your shop. The ATF does not care if the business is in your home as long as the local regulations allow a business in the home.

I need one...Mitchell Custom says 3-4 weeks for the next availability (and have been telling me that for a month now). Any alternatives? Any in-stock sources - or anyone have one to sell?

I need one...Mitchell Custom says 3-4 weeks for the next availability (and have been telling me that for a month now). Any alternatives? Any in-stock sources - or anyone have one to sell?

And as mentioned the Winchester $2 per box rebate is in season. Around here Wal~Mart has AA shells at $7.87 per box. With a $2 rebates that makes AA shells (at $5.87) one of the best buys...and a much better shell than the bulk pack rounds

Ive seen it happen a few times. Shooter reloads, goes to flip gun over and hits oversized bolt release. Feeds one onto the lifter and one halfway out of the tube. 930s are the most common i've seen it happen to. The 930 is a different animal and will feed a shell when the bolt release is pushed/pressed in about any direction. The Beretta and Stoeger have to be manipulated just so to make it happen

That issue has been all over the .net especially related to the 1301...but has it ever happened to anyone unless you were TRYING to make it happen?

Inertia...everything that can stays in place (including the bolt carrier). The bolt carrier want to remain stationary until the spring pressure (from that inertia spring being compressed inside the carrier) overcomes the inertia force and propels the bolt carrier back away from the bolt. (Ever see a scope move forward in the the rings due to recoil? The scope did not really move, the gun and rings moved backwards and the scope stayed in place.) A Youtube video that explains what is happening: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2UOSB8mwwlQ

Every 1301 I've seen had shot very flat, right down the rib plane. If you have the front bead sitting on top of the mid bead the POI will likely be high.

Does not sound like a magazine issue to me either. With the bolt out of the gun can you manually press a round into the bolt face with reasonable pressure? Sharp edge on the bolt face that slows the cartridge rim from feeding into the bolt face recess? Extractor too far in (or blunt on the end) and not snapping over the cartridge when feeding? Brass, steel or aluminum cased ammo?

I'm just here waiting on the discount codes.

Yes. That is the "the shell release button on the side" that I refer to on the OP. I press that down and the shell doesn't release from the mag tube if it is fully or near fully loaded. It appears that the spring to the rear of the shell latch isn't strong enough to move the latch over when the tube is full/near full. JRB06 thought I was talking about the bolt release. Its likely the front area of the shell latch (where the base of the shell in the mag tube contacts the shell latch) is angled or rough causing excess pressure on the part when the tube is fully load. You have both mag tube spring pressure and the weight of all the shells in the tube for the latch spring pressure to overcome. The radius of the shell latch's movement may even have to move the shells slightly forward to allow a shell to enter the action when you activate the “Cartridge Drop Lever”. Take the shell latch out of the receiver, note where it contacts the shell rim, then polish, or modify the angle, as needed.

The XS sight dovetailed into the rib is quite popular, gives a good rear sight reference without being too much in the way when you don't need it...but if your gun is already shooting high for you then adding any rear sight above the rib (assuming you are looking right down the rib plane the way you shoot now) will make your POI even higher - unless you add a taller front sight to compensate. Taller rear sight = POI moves up Taller front sight = POI moves down Do you see much of the rib in your sight picture now? If you see any rib at all move your head down (change the stock shim to B or C if you've not already) and shoot a group at 40-50 yards to see if that helps. There is one other M2 fix we might bring into play if your gun refuses to shoot “right down the rib” but we can address that later if needed.