GunCat

This little tip of the shell stop, is it broken off?

Any variation in the tolerance of the trigger pin and hammer pin locations could cause the sear to release early or the disconnector to not hold. Take the trigger group out of the gun. Pull the trigger while restraining the hammer so the hammer goes forward. Now hold the trigger back and manually recock the hammer. Does the disconnector hold the hammer cocked as long as you keep the trigger pulled back? Slowly release the trigger and let it move forward. When the disconnector lets go of the hammer does the sear catch the hammer in the cocked position, or does the hammer go forward as in firing?

Co-Match Directors Brian Nelson and David Power

The M2 and Stoeger barrels are not interchangeable.

MOA Lightning Lifter in my Benelli M2 https://youtu.be/vg5Sre5BB0I

I'll try to do a comparison of the two when I am in the shop tomorrow. As far as the 120 degree expansions on your mag tube...If that is a factory design it is recent change, I've not seen that on any previous M3000 tubes. (Thomas Hart at MOA Precision would likely know the details)

Barrel mystery solved...this is a M2000 barrel. How do I know? Because we have a M2000 in the shop now with exactly the same lug recess failure. So Kurt, I don't how common this failure is, but we know it happened at least twice.

Normal....just like easing the slide forward on a 1911 or slowly closing the bolt on an AR will keep those guns from going fully into battery The gun's action was design to work at a certain speed so turn loose of the bolt and let the springs do their thing.

If the feeding issues coincided with the lifter modification that may be a good plan. When that U in the lifter is filled in that changes the shell feed angle (raises the shell more) - so the modified end of the lifter is generally bent to accommodate. If you have CRUMS modify the factory lifter he will make the proper adjustments.

That bent lifter lip...was it bent / curved down ? With the trigger group installed is the lifter centered in the receiver? (Verify that the lifter has not become bent to one side) Have you changed the brand of shells you are using? Do your shells have a smooth, nicely rounded crimp - or is the crimp end of the shell slightly bulged like mushroom? (Avoid shells that bulge at the crimp) Does the extractor cut in the chamber have a sharp edge? (Lightly smooth off the sharp edge if present)

I've had a HK imported gun for years that has done stellar service on the range, field, and duck blind. The SBE should run decent quality 1200 fps 1 1/8oz loads. The SBE lifter is longer than the M2 part, the mag tube extension is the same as the M2. The usual 3 Gun mods (port, extended lifter, oversize controls, etc.) can be done on the SBE if you want to do so.

Part I have replaced for shooters while out on the range. (Over the several years, some only once in those years, some parts were just dropped or knocked off and lost) Magazine spring Magazine follower Lifter spring Shell latch Shell latch spring Shell latch pin Firing pin retainer pin Firing pin spring Bolt release button Bolt handle Front sight bead insert D clip spring from the trigger group bushing Trigger group pin Recoil pad 99.8% of the time a magazine spring and bolt handle will be the most used fix-it in your kit.

And they must disintegrate in mid air cause you don't ever find them where they should have landed. ?

A 10 round magazine is still longer than a 24" barrel, and not a problem...but I'm thinking you will really like the 12 rd capacity (unless your matches include a lot of tight spots to get into/out of)

Its been a while since I looked inside a left handed VM, but IIRC its just like the left handed Benelli M2. Take the bolt and trigger group out of the receiver. Look inside the receiver and you should see a slot in the receiver wall near the bottom of the pin. The slot contains a clip that retains the shell latch pin. Remove the clip with a small hooked wire or pin. Push the pin down and out (bent paper clip worked into the bolt raceway)

https://www.mackspw.com/Nordic-MXT-Benelli-20-Ga-Extension-Nut

Which coupling nut do you need?

I don't know what the supply issue "was"...but now Brownells and Midway (only places I checked) have all lengths of tubes in stock.

At this point its hard to tell without the gun in hand. Try that new trigger group and let us know. Being a HK M1 the original could have some wear given the guns age. We once had in a HK SBE with enough wear in the aluminum trigger group that the hammer spring cap was occasionally get past the tab on the drop lever. (That gun exhibited A LOT of wear and use all over)

Can you post a video? Make sure the gun's chamber is empty. Cycle the bolt to cock the hammer. Load a shell in the mag tube. With the gun pointed in a safe direction (yeah its unloaded, but we aint taking chances) pull the trigger to let the hammer fall and lets see what happens with the cartridge drop lever.

Kurt, He mentioned that he can trip the Cartridge Drop Lever manually and shells will exit the tube. If assembled incorrectly (which happens frequently) it would not feed any shells from the tube would it?

Part #19 on this schematic. When the hammer falls the hammer spring cap should engage that little protrusion of metal on top of part 19 (Cartridge Drop Lever). This causes the same movement and release of the shell latch that is going on when you manually depress the lever. Perhaps your Cartridge Drop Lever is damaged

We use the Noveske QD sockets: https://www.noveske.com/products/flush-qd-sling-mount These require a 1/2" hole. Fitting into the forearm may take some modification.

The hammer spring bushing should not be able to get beyond the cartridge drop lever with the pin bushing and D spring installed. That may the cause of the lifter timing and letting the shell rim hang (shell lifter movement delayed as shell exits the magazine tube). I have seen this issues once before, but in that case it was a well worn, well used SBE with the aluminum trigger group housing. The hole for the hammer spring and bushing had worn to the point that the spring bushing was moving side to side allowing the bushing to move past the tip of the cartridge drop lever when the the hammer fell. A new trigger group housing fixed the issue....but I do not expect your housing has worn to that extent. Try the new hammer spring bushing when you get it and lets see if that fixes the issue of the parts getting past the tip of the cartridge drop lever.

Not “required” per se, but the larger bolt release will stay in place (tighter) better and sit a little closer to the side of the receiver if you remove that small dome on the factory bolt release button. You will also need to remove a small amount of material is from the trigger group housing to allow the TTI safety to fully engage.