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lgh

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  1. I tried a lot of lubes for my 1911's. Settled on Weapon Shield (Actually I have the the original FP10 from when George made it.) That and Slide Guide. There are many good lubes out there but I like George's technology, it lubes like it should, and the guns need zero solvent to clean when I use FP10. Haven't really tried others since I switched way back when.
  2. I've meditated for decades. If I could give a piece of advice it would be, "Don't think about it too much". I think Suzuki says to, "just meditate". Good advice. A lot of other things follow.
  3. These are good uppers. Mine is very reliable and accurate. My brother shoots Bullseye with his. My Marvel is also great. I had a Victory that was 100% with any ammo and accurate, too. I just couldn't get used to the grip.
  4. Not likely primers are seated too deep on a 650. High primers are a known problem with 650's and much more likely if it is a seating problem. Put the suspect rounds on a flat table surface and see if they rock and you will know if they are high. Be sure your primer seating assembly (below platform) is snugged up and tight. That is usually the culprit on a 650 if the primers are too high. If it is not snugged up, that is the problem. I've never had a problem with any primers in a stock Glock unless the primers were too high. OTW the primers are probably wet. You can probably figure out how I know all this.
  5. I know a lot of people here get their reloading info from BE but I still think a manual is a good idea. Learn the basic concepts. They are intuitive to some but not all. Sometimes stuff on the internet is wrong or flat out dangerous. IIRC, some time ago on BE there was a discussion of mixing powders. For a newbie to think that is OK is a recipe for disaster. The manuals also encourage record keeping, an absolute necessity when working up loads and/or if you reload multiple loads.
  6. I have a DW PM9 and its quality is way up there, almost on par with my nearly $4k custom 45. $1100 sounds like fair price. If you want a good SS 45, go for it.
  7. You might double check to see if the problem is isolated to one headstamp. Internal dimensions can vary among different headstamps and so a plunk test with the brass alone won't pick that up.
  8. I don't do much competition these days but my game Glock and carry Glock both have Overwatch Precision flat triggers. The only difference is the gamer Glock has a - connector. I like a wall and not a rolling break. In dry fire I shoot the two guns +/- the same speed with a slight edge to the gamer. I never aspire to greatness in games. I am more serious about defensive shooting and so the games are just fun and training. A super light trigger does not matter to me because it might interfere with defensive shooting. I also shoot 1911's (4 - 4 1/2# triggers) and have pretty much learned to transition between a Glock and a 1911 without difficulty. You would never confuse throwing a football with throwing a basketball. You pick up the 1911 and you immediately know its not a Glock and treat it differently.
  9. I have had similar problems with some mounts and RDS and found that it might be the blue liquid loctite. It appears to run off small screws and bolts. My son recommended the two part wax-like sticks. One is a catalyst and the other the adhesive part. It seems to work much better.
  10. Nicest looking base pads I've ever seen.
  11. I also got one a couple of weeks ago, sans your magwell and golf ball grips. Very, very nice gun. Nearly on par with my $3500 custom 45. It requires a long 300-500 round break in, not unexpected given the tight fit.
  12. Same here for 5". If there's a problem feeding, it is usually the mag. No problem at all getting good accuracy. In fact, my 1911s are the most accurate pistols I have.
  13. There are many people who use mixed brass and your issue has seldom if ever been i.d. as a problem, at least not here at BE. Basic steps with any Dillon problem is clean, lube, tune (including replacing worn parts).
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