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  1. lgh

    Generic OAL question

    Thanks for clarifying.
  2. lgh

    Grip technique/pressure

    It was a good episode. Lately, the grip issue has been dominated by those promoting a vice grip approach. In reality, that might not be the right approach for everyone. Big hands, small hands, Glocks, 1911's ... you get the picture. IIRC, Brian writes about a balanced grip being good. Also, when people talk about "70% support hand", it is not clear that is actually what they are doing. Jake, who posts here often, had an idea to put pressure sensors on the stocks ("grips') to measure what people are actually doing rather than trusting their perceived exertion of "70%". Good idea if you have the need to know your grip pressure. Maybe those people are only balancing their stronger non-support hand. When I hear of people losing their grip after a certain round count, that is not a strength issue. It's an endurance issue and that is trained different than strength. Along those lines, Kim and others (Eric Grauffel comes to mind) talk about the old push-pull technique (from an isoceles) being less fatiguing. I also recall seeing at least one top shooter using his support hand index finger in front of the trigger guard. I tried that and for me it moves the support hand higher on the frame and facilitates a stronger push from the support hand. It is also more comfortable. Still trying it out. Your mileage may vary. All this makes a strong argument to experiment with what works best for you to keep vertical and horizontal movement at a minimum and still allow you to get the gun aligned with where you are focusing your visual attention. But as my instructor once said, he doesn't mess with what is working.
  3. lgh

    Generic OAL question

    Why do you say that? Powder type/charge, bullet weight, case volume, and a bunch of other things will dictate what COAL change will do to pressure change.
  4. lgh

    Shortening OAL after ammo is loaded

    I've done it on about 1000 rds of 45 (don't ask). I just seated them a little deeper to pass a plunk test. Never a problem but the crimp was not too tight and the rounds were not loaded to max and so I wasn't worried about shaving off the coating or pressure going up due to reduced volume. The bullets were Precision. Oh yeah, it was really boring.
  5. Yes, that can be an issue. The best way to sort it out for you is to experiment with keeping it off to the side, perhaps on part of your index finger, and see if that matters.
  6. lgh

    New guy’s stupid reloading question here....

    If you have the option of always picking up your own brass, buy new and keep using it over and over. Same headstamp and same # of rounds through each piece of brass. Maybe even the same chamber. That will keep things consistent if that is important. But if you can't conveniently pick up your own brass it can be a PITA sifting through others' brass to find yours. I shoot on my own property and have a gravel covered range and so it is easy for me to just buy new or separate once shot by headstamp and still keep things simple. Having said that, I have so much brass separated by headstamp that I never anticipate buying more brass and haven't bought new in decades. Many guys who post here shoot mixed headstamp of uncertain history and it serves their purpose well.
  7. Ain't that the truth! Shooting RDS for a while and this week "tried" to shoot some open sight stuff (that's what I carry). OK for COM at 10 -15 yds but that's about it. Picked up a S&W Victory for a good price but I can see already it will need a RDS. Shooting rimfire is just fun. And I have a rimfire Texas Star that needs to be shot a lot. I can shoot it all I want without disturbing the neighbors. And my wife likes it!
  8. This happens with some of us when we move from a single action to a Glock. Pulling the trigger from near your knuckle rather than the tip of your finger is a common and inexpensive solution. For me, I also find that a flat trigger like the ones from Overwatch Precision helps pull the trigger straight back but I solved the shooting left problem before buying the trigger just by moving my finger in ("more finger on the trigger"). Here's PatMac explaining it.
  9. Why do you say this?IIRC, NRA has ventilation standards for indoor ranges. Have those been found to be ineffective? (I agree that brooming brass should be done with some care. It's stirring the pot so to speak.)
  10. Thanks guys. Exactly what I wanted to know.
  11. Because I have high cheek bones, my cheek weld puts my eyes low. I need a RDS that sits low. A Vortex Venom sits low but I am not sure if a Holosun 510 does. Anyone in a similar situation have any experience with a Holosun? It would go on a Ruger PCC or Henry lever action.
  12. Skelt - Unless you have really, really precise and accurate calipers, it is probably not possible to measure accurately to 1/10,000. The calipers might read to that level but that does not mean it is accurate to that level. So in your example, the comparison is more appropriately 1.142 to 1.143.
  13. With all due respect to the great people at Dillon, many people have found that mixed brass changes OAL. Maybe theoretically it shouldn't matter but when applying the infallible method of trial and error, it matters. I haven't measured the oal variation on my 650 in a while but, IIRC, it is way less than 0.010 when I use single headstamp 9mm brass.
  14. I did not state that correctly. The re-sizing/decapping die in Station 1 is set at the top of the ram movement and is setting on top of the shell plate. If there is nothing in Station 1, the shell plate will have more wiggle in it. Obviously, this will have a greater effect if there is already a lot of wiggle in the shell plate. So get the wiggle out and always have a shell in Station 1. Dillon recommends always setting Die 1 first and having a shell in it when adjusting other dies.
  15. lgh

    Long range pcc

    357 - Do you check the drop at 100 vs zero at 50? I think that was the OP's question.