GunCat

Careful with the no headed targets.....them Kentucky boys might come after ya!We can deal with a no head target. As long as it's only one.Bring one of those cardboard German helmet cutouts, I'll fix it for ya....... Bob, you'll need to fix a bayonet to fix that target... I double dog dare you!

On the flip side Google up the complaints that owners of the 930, 1301 and other similar guns have about those gun's potential to dump shells into the action when the bolt release button is activated at the wrong moment (a function of some hinged shell release designs). That's a problem you do not have with the Benelli design. Just thinking out loud I can envision some type of cam on the bolt that releases the shell release as the bolt cycles. The devil is in the details, but some guy named Browning once came up with a design to make a 1873 Winchester run full auto...

No. The Nova stock is integral with the receiver, the Super Nova stock is a seperate part (more like a conventional shotgun stock)

Weigh the Pro’s and Con’s and make your choice. Pro: The coupler/extension makes it easier to switch mag capacity (especially if you have a clamp on the main section of tube) Also makes it easier to shorten length of the gun and fit it in a case for transport. Con: The coupler makes for one more part to come loose and one more tube junction to potential snag a spring or follower. The is potentially less of a problem with the single +9 tube

Is there a new/updated web site for the 2015 match? http://www.rock3gun.com/ is still showing the 2014 information.

I'm thinking...Who runs and talks kinda sssslllloooow?But wait... is it better to have a slow moving RO so I can keep up....or a quick mover so we don't time out? I tell you what....set'em up and I'll shoot'em...that is the extent of my stage plan at this time. I'm thinking about stage 2 as well. Limited to 25 rifle rounds. I wonder if one needs all 25, or one just cannot have more than 25. Guess that's what pockets are for when you shoot in multiples of 8. Bob, I've seen some 5 round en bloc clips for that General Patton approved rifle you shoot.

Which type/brand of dot do you plan to use?

It pains me to say this as I am a big fan of Ruger revolvers, bolt guns and .22 Mark I and II pistols. As a kid I dreamed of having a Red Label O/U but when the time came I learned that the quality, design, and gun fit was just not there compared to the Beretta and Browning guns in a similar price range. Try one before you but it, ask any other RL owners about quality issues, and see how many of these guns you see in the hands of other shooters.

In the area(s) that you filed down did you also round off any sharp edges that might snag the shell? Removing a lot of metal is not needed, but rounding/smoothing edge of the extractor cut is a common tune up.

Cannot say that I have ever seen one, but any of the hydrographic /dipping refinishers could apply a camo film to your tube. Here is one not too far away

At the risk of explaining something that might be misinterpreted down the road I will just post this from the Carlson Choke tube web site: Pic A) Standard Beretta/Benelli (Ber/Ben) Mobil Choke: - It can be identified by measuring flush mount choke tube. The flush mount chokes in this system are 2” long and have threads located at the muzzle end of the choke (top of choke where choke notches are.) Pic B ) Beretta Optima Plus/Benelli Crio Plus: Identified by measuring a flush mount choke tube. This choke system is 2-3/4” long & the threads begin 3/4” from the muzzle end of the choke. These two chokes have identical outside dimensions, however these chokes are based on two different bore diameters and should not be interchanged. Pic C) Beretta Optima/Benelli Crio: - It can be identified by measuring a flush mount choke tube. It is 2-3/4” long and threads are located at the muzzle end of the choke (top of choke where choke notches are.) The Benelli Crio was in very few guns and is no longer being put into shotguns. Once again these two chokes have the same outside dimensions but are based on different bore diameters and should not be interchanged. Pic D) Beretta Opitma HP: - It can be identified by measuring a flush mount choke tube. It is 2-3/4 long and the threads begin about a half-inch down from the top of the choke. This is a New choke system that you find in the A-400 Xplore shotguns.

It makes for an interesting sight set up, but I was more impressed with your 100 yard off hand shooting!

That is a Kimber 1911 rear sight and the Beretta factory front bead.

I only count 5...you've got a long way to go before you have "too many"

Benelli M2 with an extended magazine tube and C-Rums or TTI lifter.

When testing ammo don't over look the importance of a consistent, repeatable sight picture to reduce that variable. A temporary rear sight can help keep the gun pointed in the same direction every time (we used to duct tape a rear sight on smooth bore flintlock guns when developing a good load)

Barry. The flush style Win/Accu/Invector choke tube is 1.5” long. The Benelli/Beretta Mobil choke tube is about 2” long. To clean up the original choke tube area, removing the chrome lining and making sure to get proper thread engagement on the Accu tube you'll need to cut off 2” or more of the barrel length. Also the OD of the barrel at the spot its to be cut off and 1.5” behind that spot must be .845” or larger to know the barrel wall are thick enough for safe installation of the Accu tube.

Some cheap buck that may be worth a try

Something like this (curl the end into a smaller circle then bend the end down into the center of the spring)

Shot a few (other people’s) guns on the range to verify function and loading after a bit of tuning. Cut and threaded a barrel for a .300 Blackout SBR (for someone else’s gun) then cut a stock and installed a recoil pad (on someone else’s gun) all to fund the game (after the kid’s next tuition bill…) At lunch I loaded up a Wal~Mart shopping cart up with the good Winchester AA shells to take advantage of the $2 rebate (in hopes that I get to shoot some of them myself). However I did get a pair of Salomon Speedcross 3 shoes from Cabelas. I heard those are a good substitute for practice…right?

When the loading hangs up will the next shell start in (partially) and then get stopped? ...Or will it not go in at all? (Which possibly means it is the rim of the shell in the mag tube hanging up on something in the receiver) Did you curl in the ends of your mag tube spring so the spring is free to rotate in the tube when you screw it all together (and not get all kinked up inside the tube)?

Is the barrel out of the receiver? (unlike the Remington 1100 and others the M2 forearm goes on the mag tube first, then the barrel slides into place). If the magazine cap is removed and the barrel is out of the receiver then slide the forearm forward, then push harder, the polymer is a really tight fit the first few times you install the forearm.

Yes - but you have to make a couple of modifications to the carrier (just like you can do to use the standard M2 carrier on the MK3)

The guys above have given good info. I will add that you do NOT need to weld up the lifter. On the Nova/Super Nova guns when loading the tube the lifter remains up until the action is cycled (and in doing so the lifter does not spring back down to hang your thumb)

I'm thinking...Who runs and talks kinda sssslllloooow? But wait... is it better to have a slow moving RO so I can keep up....or a quick mover so we don't time out? I tell you what....set'em up and I'll shoot'em...that is the extent of my stage plan at this time.