GunCat

Ordering directly from Mossberg can be an exercises in patience...make sure they know you want just the elevator (the lifter) - not the entire trigger group. If they tell you its a restricted part call back in an hour or so and you may get a different answer.

Direct from the factory Welded and extended from Sky Tac

This clip, Part #23, fits in a slot inside a slot in the receiver and goes around a groove in the pin Yes, the schematic is a Browning Gold, but the clip and pin are the same as in the FN SLP and Winchester SX2

This one? The #6-32 screw generally uses a #36 tap drill.

+6 Nordic tube on a 24" barrel (+5 underneath for comparison)

Message sent with more details

If you happen upon a 28” ported barrel at a good price you can have it cut down to 24” and re-threaded for the original choke tubes. I know a guy.

Glad to see the sell out popularity. I am looking forward to this one!

Where are you located? Maybe we know others in your area. But in the mean time you are in a good place to ask questions.

Thanks very much! I'm still confused on how to remove the front FO sight on the 1301. Can anybody give me a clue? It doesn't appear screwed in as I can't see a screw. Do I need to remove the sight prior to the metal piece around it? If you have a vent rib barrel the front bead looks something like this and the whole thing is screwed into a hole on the rib.

plus a different spring as well? I'm also in the same boat with a 10 +1 M2. Would like to have the option of extending the tube. Use the full length (45”) Nordic or ISMI spring with a 12+1 tube. You can use that same spring length on the 10+1 set up too, a little extra spring pressure is better than too little in these longer tubes.

A few more thoughts on the topic

Shift the base back 1/2” and drill/tap 4 new holes (I would use 8-40 screws). This will put 2 screws (instead of the original 1) through the thickest part of the receiver. Make sure the screw are long as possible for maximum thread engagement. To add strength to the set up you could run screws up through the original receiver holes into newly drill/tapped holes in the base. (Counter sink the screw heads inside the receiver).

It's a hollow pin on the side opposite the ejection port. You sure get up early or stay up late I am an early riser... And on central time. If there is no clip holding the pin in place then I would run a small tap or screw into the hollow section and pull the pin out of its hole.

Put down the drill. Is the pin solid or hollow? Inside the receiver do you see a small slit across and perpendicular to the feed latch pin area? Is the feed latch and pin on the ejection port side of the gun?

Benelli factory spring Wolff XP (and RP) springs

I use the same Noveske QD setup as Bryan. I use the same setup on my rifle also. Rear QD in the stock With a bit of fitting you can put that QD socket in most shotgun forearms or use something like this on the clamp

You are going to need 3 hands to do this: Make sure the gun is unloaded...completely, then check it one more time. Dry fire the gun, keep the trigger pulled back with the bolt closed, press the bolt release and hold it in, and cycle the action quickly (and keep the trigger pulled back). Did the hammer follow the bolt - or did it stay cocked? If the hammer remains cocked release the trigger. Did the disconnetor hold the hammer back - or did the hammer fall when you released the trigger? Try this test several times to make sure you get the same result every time.

Given the the small number of rounds the gun has on it I would first check with the manufacture to see how they want to handle it. Assuming all the FCG parts are in spec the most likely cause is a disconnector releasing early* (if the hammer falls as you start to release the trigger) or not holding properly (if the impact of the bolt closing causes the hammer to fall with the trigger still fully depressed) * If that is the case there is some amount of fitting/timing that can be done in the disconnector mechanism that might correct the issue. I've had to do so to fix someone's home grown trigger job gone awry.

Welcome! Hope to see you on the range soon.

Back in the day* a firearm was called a “carbine” when it was a shorter version of an existing Rifle or Musket (and both were of the same caliber). We can also throw “Fusil” into the mix. A Fusil (e.g. Officer's Fusil) generally being a long arm both smaller in caliber and shorter in length than the standard issue Rifle or Musket. * The days of of Rogers, Washington and Cornwallis So...had the AR-10 platform only come first we could all be running AR-15 Fusils Yeah...Every now and then instead of “Load and Make Ready” I am tempted to tell the shooter to ” Prepare your Firelock”

To be clear on this... the work we at RAS do on the Nova /Super Nova is the modification that Pat Kelley shared with us. This mod does not shorten the distance that the forearm or action moves, it increases the time frame in which the shell can exit the mag tube when the action is operated. That in turn makes it less likely for you to outrun the function of the shells moving through their feeding cycle.

Who, may I ask, gets $400 + for that kind of work? (my kid's college fund can use that type of pricing)

Aint that the truth! Best stages and the most fun I've ever shot at BRM. Andy and crew, along with the RO staff have outdone themselves with this one. And what about that perfect weather!

I have cut down a M3000 barrel and threaded it for Tru-Choke tubes. Sorry, I don't remember the exact length but I am thinking it was in the 20-22” range (and cut to match up with a rib post)