Bamboo

I've never had an aftec that didn't need tuning. Good once you get them dialed in, though.

I love the .45, but really enjoy shooting a 9mm 1911. It almost makes me giggle. At local matches I don't feel handicapped at all shooting 9mm in SS.

Maybe they were getting blast or ejecta going through the previous "holy" version's barrel extension and through skeltonized handguards. The new version looks like it would contain the blast and ejecta better. They do recommend that you use their composite handguard which is solid. Over the weekend I ordered a two port pcc comp, and seriously contemplated getting one of their barrels....but, have been happy with my 16" barrels. When I first saw the original ventilated barrel shroud version I kind of thought that it looked like the inner tube of a cherry bomb or glasspack muffler.

I'm not an authority on SVI frames and their differences compared to STI, etc. But, I can say that the SVI I replaced the ejector on will use MBX or STI mags just fine now that there is clearance for the top part of the mag. Actually, it worked fine before as the mag was just a few thousands away from the ejector and I think between insertion and the mag banging against it while firing it cracked and finally let go while I was using dummy rounds. But, I also have STI and Caspian framed guns and had to put a chamfer on the side of the ejector as shown above by EchoTango to make sure the mag didn't bang against it. So, the issue isn't unique to the SVI frame.

Warn are solid winches. Had one on a Toyota pickup and it was a workhorse.

As others have said, an extended ejector will break if the mag can bounce against it. A couple months ago I had to replace a broken ejector in an SVI gun because it wasn't properly fitted so the mags wouldn't hit and the ejector broke when I was running dummy rounds through it to verify the extractor. I saw a little black piece fall out of the ejection port onto the floor and knew it was the ejector nose. Replaced it with a wilson combat which has a shorter nose and clears the mags and all is good again.

Harbor freight - nice black mesh tarp. It was too big and I cut it in half and have two for about 20 bucks total. A bit nicer than the blue tarps.

It took me about 3 years to make Master. At the time I was just ate up with shooting and had access to a nice private indoor range 24/7 and went to every match in my area. I dry fired and practiced reloads, oddball starts, and maneuvering with the gun about 3-5 times a week, and shot about 200-500 rounds per week either for matches or practicing. At the time I wanted to be a solid shooter and do well at matches, getting bumped up in class was just a by-product of that. I should also qualify that I made Master in open with iron sights and a single stack .38 super, and there was no Grand Master class yet. The competition was tough, but we were all friends who helped each other get better. I still keep my open percentage above 85%, but I shoot for different reasons now and my class is pretty much only academically interesting to me.

Or you can use a bent welding rod and dead weights like the old NRA trigger weights. You can use anything for dead weight (45 bullets in a doubled up plastic bag work good) and then just weigh them on a kitchen scale after you find the break point. But I mainly use a Weston spring scale for double actions since it goes to 20 pounds. They are cheap from old will knotts.

Agreed, SRPs will help...or try CCI SPP if you want to stick with small pistol. kneelingatlas posted a great pic of what you want, and what you don't want. I'll pick up brass at matches and it isn't uncommon to find cases that look like "C" where you can't tell where the primer ends and the casehead begins, which is just downright scary. Anyway, HS-6 (a.k.a. ww540) is a solid powder for 9mm major (and 38 super) and was used before 9mm major was prohibited (and then re-approved). It is a shotgun powder so there are variances lot to lot, and that coupled with your gun/barrel (which may run fast) may explain the charge weight difference. IMO it is one of more forgiving 9mm major powders, but it would be worth checking out a slower powder if you want to experiment.

On Ebay, huh? Do you know where that thing has been? Interesting idea, though. Let us know how it works out!

Dawson base pad and Gram's Engineering spring and follower are my go-to combo for the old STI mags. Probably be a good place to start with the new ones. Definitely check with a mag gauge or 8" digital caliper for overall length after installing the base pad. Shooting for no score might be fun but leaves you with that empty feeling when you see your results.

I've been using the scabard that Flatland shooter posted and really like it. However, if for some reason I need to get a basic soft case I was thinking of something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035M1F8Q/ref=s9_acsd_zwish_hd_bw_b3WJoLT_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_r=DZVW9K3K303R0YVNHGBJ&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=34dd269d-3c1e-57ae-b3d4-fc3d684819fa&pf_rd_i=3225963011 No backpack straps, though.

For 38 Super: (through 5.4" schuemann barrel with three ports) Silhouette @ 8.3gr 124gr MG JHP at 1.235", or MG FMJ/CMJ at 1.250" oal Tula or Win SRP, or CCI SPP 1392 fps avg = 172pf I like 124 grainers better than 115 grain bullets with this powder in 38 super. Accurate, and shoots well with no pressure signs.

I have Caspian widebodies, and yep....you have to drill and tap yourself. And yep, they are very hard. If you don't have the right tools, it is better to let your smith do it and the nice thing is that they are small and you can mail the part if your gunocologist is not close. I like the Ed Brown button, or the Dawson Lo-pro but there are a bunch of paddles and buttons out there that you might like better.

Ics, just curious, I've used all of the powders docscout mentioned and when it comes to AutoComp vs CFE pistol to me there is very, very little difference to the point where effectively I find that they load and shoot the same. What difference between those two powders do you experience.

Alliant Clay Dot, e3, American Select, and Promo are all soft shooters and available at PV right now. Personally I am fond of American Select as it is very clean, very accurate, and easy to load (very close to solo1k but meters better). Clay Dot is also good, but can get spikey when pushed beyond about 135pf. I use Vectan GM3 and am very happy with that also. 3.0gr under a SNS 147 coated bullet - Accurate, very clean, and i think it is a soft shooting powder.

For local matches 9mm minor in Single Stack is fun, and since you already shoot 8 shot revolver you probably already have good powder and bullets, and a reloading setup that is already pretty close to what you need for 9mm. Getting a decent belt, holster, and mag pouches is pretty reasonable. The gun and mags are the big ticket items. I dabble in single stack and have a Dan Wesson PM 9 and really like it and if i sold it I'm pretty sure I could get close to what I paid. i added an Ed Brown mag release and a magwell and that is about it. STI and others make good 9mm guns for decent prices and lots of folks love them. Tripp or Dawson mags work well out of the box. Also, factory 9mm ammo is currently very reasonable. .40 and .45 are also great options, and shooting major is probably better if you really get into the Single Stack...but IMO it is hard to beat a good 9mm for having fun and you can be very competitive at the club level with a 9mm minor SS gun. Love the revolver and have a 627 fixed up for USPSA, but changing it up keeps things fresh and may even help in your revolver game. Good Luck!

^^^ Cross eye dominant here and this is what I do, works fine. Tried to do the tape thing and even shoot left handed, once I embraced that I draw and index to my left eye I started shooting a lot better. OF course, YMMMV

Possible, but I use the same crimp with the SNS and Bayou 135's and they are coated not lead. I tried a few different powders and OAL's with the same results and said to heck with that. i can use them up in the steel gun and PCC no problem-o, and occasionally in the DW or tanfo on steel...steel doesn't care if the bullet is tumbling. Anyway, as for load data for the 150 gr bullets....what powders do you have? I only have load data for a couple of powders. Be aware that the 150s go deep in the case so don't just use 147 gr bullet data as they don't sit as deep in the case.

Depends on the gun. I have some old 135 and 150 gr SWCs I used in 38 super and have been slowly using them up in 9mm. They have been reliable in my 1911 based open steel challenge gun, tanfo and 1911 Dan Wesson, and even have a load with them in my PCC. They run reliabley, but you do have to set the depth and try in your gun. One thing, the 135 SWC I have shoot great out of the PCC and briley barreled steel challenge gun, but tumble from the dan wesson PM9 and tanfo. Never figured that one out as they all shoot 135 Bayou or SNS bullets very accurately.

Some powders, like Clays, work great in a specific application but if pushed too hard over pressure develops without a lot of warning signs and can split a cylinder/chamber or blow a case head. Great powder, but not a broad spectrum powder that is forgiving. Also, it doesn't meter especially well being a large flake so that can lead to some frustration when setting the charge weight. Not picking on Clays....it is a great powder for certain things and I use the Clay Dot Version...but a beginner shouldn't just assume they can use it in everything and kinda guess at the charge weight. After trying a few powders and settling on something that works for what you want, sure buy in quantity. Personally, i really like American Select for 9mm minor and see Powder Valley has it in stock. If i needed more I would buy a couple 8 pounders in a heartbeat. It is a good powder for all the gamer loads/calibers I shoot. It is good to get all the same lot number so once you develop a load you don't have to worry about what happens when your bottle runs out and you open up another of a different lot number (may not give you the same velocity for a given charge weight). Some of the shotgun powders we use for pistol are known to have noticeable variance between lot numbers.

Getting a pound of a smooth flowing, easy to load, forgiving powder would be a good place to start. HP38 (or WW231) fits that bill perfectly. Lots of folks use it and it is usually a vary accurate powder that works with a wide range of bullet weights. It is a tad on the dirty side, but not horrible. Lots of matches have been won by people shooting ww231. If you load to manufacturer's specs or to a good reloading manual ( the lyman manual is a good first reloading book) you can get some experience and then go from there. For 9mm minor there are literally dozens of powders that would work well. Everybody has their favorites, and there are pros and cons for each powder. i don't think i'd recommend buying large quantities of anything just yet. Enjoy- Reloading is an art unto itself! edit to add - if you don't already have one I'd strongly recommend getting or borrowing a decent chronograph as part of your reloading equipment. Loading and not knowing your velocities can be frustrating, and not making minor at a match will lead to sadness at the chrono station.

Yeah, I have tried a few (KVP, PSA, 20 buck ebay brake) and a bare barrel. For me there is a difference. Personally, i liked the KVP brake the best so far, but it is so dang quiet that I am now using the PSA to avoid the reshoots due to the timer not picking up the last shot. One of my first PCC matches with the KVP and subsonic ammo, I had three timer failure reshoots. However, now that ROs are getting hip on keeping the timer close on the last array that may be less of a problem.

Taccom has a nice brake that is priced fair, light and looks good. Not in stock right now but want to order one when they do come available.