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Found 11 results

  1. I always compete from AIWB and have a crazy dream of making a GM with that (currently A-class). On my favourite practice drill - El Pres - it adds quite a lot of time. So I have to have good draw and reload. So far the only thing I'm missing to make hundo on El Pres is accuracy - my reloads and draws got good enough for sub-5 runs. In this video made for r/CCW (still trying to get CCW community to shoot USPSA ) - I explain my technique. Hope it helps someone here as well. Next video is probably going to be either about my full technique for El Pres, or fitness/conditioning I use to improve my recoil control and accuracy.
  2. I have cleaned up some things in my reloads to gain .40 seconds in live fire (yes, it was bad). Basically brought the gun down just enough to see the magwell while the fiber is still on the target (so I can get back to it the moment I turn the gun) and speed up the hand to get to the mag and shoot sooner rather than dwell on the target. What more can I do? The par timer at the video is set at 1.5 secs. I want to get it down another .30 seconds if I can. I realize if I want to move from "C" to "B" i need faster reloads.
  3. [TL/DR: table at bottom] I just installed the last two accessories on my Dillon 650 and I think I’m pretty much good to go after 6 months of reloading. This forum was very helpful for me as a new reloaded so I thought I’d share this info for people trying to get into it....just saw one such inquiry minutes ago. This list is grouped by level of need and then most to least expensive...highly subjective I know. It’s just one man’s opinion! If you buy the green items labeled “Base Machine” you can load ammunition if you acquire components (powder, primers and brass). It might be slow going and unsafe but you could make a round of ammunition. I would call the blue additions “necessities” either for safety or logistical reasons. Yelow are highly recommended “priority upgrades” that we can debate & add to here. Orange entires are creature comforts and case prep items to re-use brass and save more money. Also for those suffering from sticker shock, the “rounds to cover” is a hypothetical payback assuming you can save about $.115 per round. I load 40, so YMMV. Tell your wife you will reload an obscure cartridge and save 70% per round.
  4. Does anyone have a picture of a 9mm major primer should look like after its fired? I have a little flatness to my primers but I'm at 8.3 grains of hs-6, OAL 1.155, 115 JHP V2s Everglades ammo. I'm shooting out of my brand new Trubor. I'm getting about 175 PF. Is this a sign of too high of pressure? My brass still fits into a case gauge after it's been fired so no bulging has occurred in the brass.
  5. Any reloaders use range brass to reload 9mm Major? or do you buy from a distributor?
  6. Dumb green horn question. I am looking to use my 617, if by chance I do not empty the cylindar what is the correct way to empty the chamber of live rounds and spent brass and keep everyone happy between strings? Do you bring a shooting mat or bag to collect the unfired rounds?
  7. I have loaded many 10Ks of 9mm for my 1911s but before I try to find what works best in my new DVC limited 9, I thought I would ask whether anyone has any guidance on what generally works best as a starting point. Basically my question is whether there is anything special about the STI 2011s (this is a 5" titanium nitrided barrel) that I should be aware of. Also, how many rounds should I put through it before I trust my experiments on what works? (I figure it will loosen up or smooth out just a bit as I start shooting it) Some questions running through my mind: What range of power factors will cycle with the standard spring? What overall length feeds best? And what range should I stay within? Does it get pickier with lower power factor? What bullet shape feeds best? Probably round nose/ball but I thought I'd ask just in case. Does lead vs. plated vs coated vs FMJ matter to the cycling or to the barrel? Do some bullet weights work better than others in the 115-147 gr range? The answer may just be - it's just a 9 like every other one, so shoot whatever you like and find that works, but I have heard at least that they are sensitive to OAL so in the interest of saving time and components finding my load, please share what you know about loading for these. Thanks! Jim
  8. Here is the problem, I am using N320 with 124 gr FMJ. The gun is an M&p Pro. c.o.l = 29.05 mm N320 = 3.8 gr The bullets are crimped well enough however the gun is not cycling, most of the cases end up stove piping or remaining attached to the ejector and being put back into battery again. Basic problem is there is not enough force to cycle the gun properly, please help me solve this, i do not think more powder is the solution. Someone suggested shortening the rounds however i do not know by how much. is 1mm too much? Too little? is this even the solution? Please help
  9. When I started reloading I didn't know what to do, so I got in good with someone who did. Bayou 147 grain flatpoint 3.0 grains of Titegroup Loaded to 1.14 OAL Range brass Winchester primers Last year I was shooting a Glock and this load was fine (soft and accurate) but next year I'm buying a 2011. I plan to test my existing load first but what are other 2011 shooters doing? Moly bullets? Jacketed bullets? Specific powder? OAL lengths? (I plan to do some actual testing in the spring too but like to have the discussion in the meantime)
  10. I always see postings and am amazed over how many hundreds of rounds per hour people pump out of their presses. Well, I must be a real slow poke as I generally only run 150-200 rounds/hour (pistol) using my LNL with case & bullet feeder. Why so slow? Well, I include the time it takes to load primer tubes, verify (at least 10 times and then spot check every time I load a new primer tube) charge weights, clean the press (compressed air) every 300 rounds or so, case gauge check every round, dump unused powder back into the container & clean the press & dies and any spilled powder/sweep the floor. I also include in my time the occasional need to pull a bullet or clean the press due to a bad charge or crushed case. So, I don't even include any brass prep time (cleaning, lubing & dumping into case feeder). Generally speaking I will reload 800-1,000 in a day with breaks for lunch & coffee (I don't include the breaks in my time calculations). I know I could go a little faster but there is no way that I could do all of the above and hit 500+ rounds/hour. So...how fast do you really go and if you're really getting 500+ rounds/hour what aren't you including in your average? Or, better yet, how can I go faster?
  11. Greetings from Yuma. Ive been looking all over for some reloading questions. Quick info, my loving wife brought home a Glock 22 in December and I loved it so I got a Glock 35. We have gone crazy these last few months and we had decided to start reloading (how I found the forum). This weekend our Dillon 550 showed up so I'm ready to start. While waiting the 8 weeks for our press and dies to arrive we purchased all we could find for reloading .40. These items wouldn't have been my first choice, but right now, this was about my only choice of components. I was able to get: 2000 CCI small pistol primers 5000 Remington small pistol primers 2000 Bear Creek 180gr flat nose molly coated bullets 8 pounds of Longshot powder We purchased the Hornady book and wrote every powder they listed for the 180 grain, and Longshot was the only one I could get my hands on during these scarce times. My 'source' told me that I could use the same numbers as the 180 gr FMJ bullets with the lead ones. I haven't been able to verify this. Is this right? I loaded 20 rounds with 52.3 grains of powder and they fit in the case checker just fine. In the manual it was supposed to give you 950fps, and was second to lowest load. I haven't shot them yet. Does anyone have any experience with this combo? Does it sound like a good starting point? Should I toss these 20 rounds and start over with another setup? My wife and I mainly shoot in an indoor range, and outside at steel targets. Any input would be greatly appreciated. When this drought ends I will get some FMJ and different powder, just to try. Another question is the dreaded Glock and molly coated lead bullets combo. I have read and know guys who have had good luck with the Bear Creek in their Glocks, as long as they clean the barrels after shooting. I at least want to try it out while I'm waiting for our aftermarket barrels to show up. Again, thanks for any advise in advance. I'm a lucky man to have a wife who sports a Glock sticker on her SUV, but the cost of ammo is getting out of hand when she has a 500 rounds per week habit.
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