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Found 14 results

  1. As our 1050s aged we noticed it was harder and harder to get consistent primer seating depth. We took a cue from out Ammoload and Camdex machines and developed a primer hold down for the 1050. This is very similar to the hold down in the swaging station on the 1050. It will accommodate 380, 9mm, 40 and 45. Installation and adjustment is very simple. Please see the video below for instruction. Can be used in the RL 1050 as well with modification to the diameter of the die. It will need to be turned down about .020" to work in the RL1050. Pricing is $17.50 shipped and can be purchased from our website. Click to purchase from our website.
  2. Just got mine, and all I can say is why the hell did I not get this sooner?!?!? It works like a dream. I hate to poke primers and my VP worked with CCI SP but it does not like WSP at all. The PAL did fine with the WSP. I chucked the tubes in my drill and took 400 wet/dry to the end so it would slide into the PAL better. If you have ever thought about getting one, do it. Buy once cry once. I didnt want to take a chance on the Hornady monstrosity, or getting another VP that doesnt work. YMMV
  3. leam

    SIG P320 striker force?

    All the cool kids use Federal primers for their competition loads. Federals seem to use softer metal and easier to ignite. Sadly, finding them is almost impossible. What's the level of force behind the P320 striker? Can it reliably ignite heavier primers? Does trigger action work like Bruce Gray's affect this?
  4. Priming issues d650xl I've got a Relatively new press, probably loaded 8000 rounds over the last year or so... I've probably only had 2000 or so rounds without any hiccups. It's mostly priming issues of some kind or another... Lately it's been either a misalignment of the primer disk, or a flat out non-rotation. I'm forced to manually adjust the indexing arm constantly. Sometimes the indexing arm's springs get all bent out of wack and I have to replace them. Better still, I've had indexing arms break and/or crack... I've cleaned the whole system of excess junk, polished the primer disk, flipped it, greased everything I feel that could be... I've even experimented with adding spacers to the primer cam to force the primer system to rotate... (which could be putting excess pressure on the arm) All in all I've gone though probably 3+ spare parts kits and ordered individual replacement parts as well. I'm about to call it quits and either order a new priming system. Or hand prime my cases from now on... Anyone experience any of this and solved it? Thanks in advance.
  5. Does anyone have a picture of a 9mm major primer should look like after its fired? I have a little flatness to my primers but I'm at 8.3 grains of hs-6, OAL 1.155, 115 JHP V2s Everglades ammo. I'm shooting out of my brand new Trubor. I'm getting about 175 PF. Is this a sign of too high of pressure? My brass still fits into a case gauge after it's been fired so no bulging has occurred in the brass.
  6. I just picked up an EGA primer hold down die and have run about 2K rounds with it installed and have had zero issues with it. Hard to see how it could cause a primer detonation if properly set up but "sh...t" does happen at times. Curious to know/hear from any of you that have been using the EGA primer hold down die in their 1050's as to if they have ever experienced a primer detonation while using the die. If so, what happened and what was the damage, if any? I like the die and will continue to use it, but its always good to hear from others that have more experience using the die than I do at this point in time. thanks in advance.
  7. Ok I have been loading on my 550 on and off for 10 years. Up until last year I was loading 1k of something then changing calibers. Now that I'm shooting mostly 40sw I have been doing huge batches right now I'm in the middle of a 10k run and have been having problems with the primer slider sticking just short of going all they way back on the up stroke and not picking up a new primer. I Can fix this problem if I pull the primer assembly every 1 k or so and clean the underside of the slide. When I do this no problems its just a pain to pull it off every 1000 rounds. Is there anything I can do to fix this so I don't have to pull it apart so often. Things I have tried are checking the been in the rod that runs the primer slide and I have installed the after market plate that is longer and has the bearing on the side both no help.
  8. Is there anything available where I can stop the feeding of my primers and cases, without completely emptying my cases and primers? Currently, I use a large pen to stop the case feed arm and a ziptie to hold back my primer index arm. Any ideas? Edit: I'm using a XL650
  9. I had a primer detonation loading this morning that detonated all 99 in the primer magazine. This occurred towards the bottom of the down stroke on the second case to be loaded. What are the various causes of primer blow ups so I do not do this again? I am ok, I was wearing safety glasses while reloading as usual. Loud boom, flash of orange, parts flying everywhere. Never having had this happen before, or to any of my reloading friends, but doing a little online looking it seems that the #1 reason is operator error. Since I'm not sure of what happened, please tell me the various ways this normally happens to I can better self-monitor. Thank you.
  10. Hi - I've had my XL650 for a few months, and haven't had a ton of time to work it. So consider it 'still new'. This is my 'third round' of ammunition through it. I am loading .223 from used brass that I've shot once from factory loaded ammo I purchased, usually American Eagle in the black box in lots of 100. I am having what i think is a larger than normal 'failure' of the primer into the primer pocket and looking for advice. If I do a 'batch' of ammo, out of about 150 rounds, maybe 20 have some time of primer issue. The primer either is missing/fails to seat when the ammo gets through the press, or in more rarer cases it's in the pocket, but either at a horrible angle, or in a few instances just 'not in all the way'. I can usually tell when this happens, as there is a rather 'crunch' feeling when I push the press handle back to seat the primer. In most cases the kinetic hammer will dislodge everything correctly. There are a couple pieces of brass I'm not sure what to do in that the brass is empty and the primer is goofed up somehow, and not sure what the best way to remove the primer is. I'm wondering if anyone has some tips on what I am doing incorrectly here. I am trying to decide if it's a 'how I put the primer in the tube' issue, or something else. What path should I take? Thanks.
  11. Hey guys, I wasn't sure if this went in 1911 or reloading. Now that I've done a search I think it may be tied to my Winchester primers. Last night while working on my gun I noticed very notable pitting on the breach face. This is a Springfield Trophy Match with approximately 850 rounds through it. Talk about really ruining my night. By this point it was really late and I didn't have energy to research it I just went to sleep pissed and ready to call Springfield first thing about their bad steel. Before calling I did a little googling and first thing I found was about Springfield 1911 and Winchester primers. the more I read the more it seems this has happened to people in other brands of 1911 using WLP primers. After reading that I was curious, I have a TRP <800 rounds and a RI @ a couple grand. I went and got them out and sure enough one tiny pit starting on the RI and a couple on the TRP. Man talking about a suck ass morning. Here are my questions: 1. How bad is this? do I contact springfield and see if they will correct it or is it not that bad yet? I realize it is hard to tell from a picture that isn't better focused (damn iphone). I did read where a guy got Winchester to help him out, so they must be aware of issues with their primers 2. obviously I'm going to throw away any remaining WLP primers I have, my question is about the 400 or so loaded rounds and 600-700 pieces of primed brass. I care more about the guns than any money lost, am I crazy to just throw anything with these questionable primers in the trash? I read that one guy thought he was having the problem more with remington brass+WLP, because of the primer pocket being chamfered. My brass is all mixed at this point (I was waiting for more allowance before buying some starline just for competition) is it worth picking through the brass just to save a few dollars? obviously I'm switching to Federal, which I was planning to do anyways, these were bought a couple years ago during the shortage. I'm really not happy guys, please somebody tell me it isn't that bad. Red
  12. Hey guys. I've had my 550 I purchased through enos now for a couple of months. For the first couple of thousand rounds I have been using my already federal match primed 9mm cases. These were pulled due to a bad load. Long story. So a few days ago I re-insert the decap pin and start loading up. Very soon there after I noticed a common occurrence. I am talking like 20% of the time I am either getting no primer in the primer cup or the primer is upside down when in the cup. I read up online. Watched some videos. I thought it was the thin bar that goes from the primer tube down through the 2 wheel tracks. I ever so slightly bent it so that it would apply more force on the bar to make sure it was going back all the way. Things got a little better after that. However I am still having the problem quite frequently. I could expect this like once every couple hundred of rounds but not 10 or 20 out of 100. It seems to work perfectly if there is no brass in station 1 ( only did this for testing purposes ). When brass is in station one it seems like the force of the case being resized and decapped is causing the primer cup to be little higher which is causing it to run into the primer that is getting ready to drop. I have taken the bar of multiple times and made sure that the primer cup was compressed as low as it could go. I am not sure what else to do. Any advice would be grateful. Thanks!
  13. I've got a few hundred once-fired HRTRS brass for .45ACP and am finding they are much more difficult to seat large primers than the Feds, Win, and other brass I've got. Anyone have any similar experience with HRTRS? Tips on how to get these primer pockets open so they seat more easily? I'm sorting the brass by headstamp now and will run a simple pocket cleaner tool through them, but my gut tells me that won't do too much. It's almost like the primer pocket is too shallow. I can get the primer to seat properly if I use a good deal of force (about twice what the non-HRTRS brass need) on the forward stroke on my SDB to seat them properly. Will they primers pop with that kind of force spread evenly over the primer cup face? I ran a couple at the range and they ignited normally and didn't have any overpressure or stress signs. Not a lot found on "HRTRS" doing a quick search through the topics, so hopefully I'm helping more than myself out!
  14. Hi, I'm pretty new to reloading, only doing 9mm in an XL650. I mostly have Magtech 9mm and use Federal 100 primers with no problem. Yesterday I tried to load some old Sellier&Bellot brass and had real problems with seating the primers. I googled and realized it could be due to the primer pocket mouth not being beveled and/or brass actually being brass covered steel (will check that..). Most of the brass could be primed but required some more force than Magtech. But in some cases I had to pull fairly hard which resulted in the primers being deformed, flattened.. Questions: 1. Is it safe to force a primer into the primer pocket so hard that it is flattened or is there a risk that the primer detonates? 2. Are rounds with flattened primers safe to shoot? 3. What is the correct way of deposing shells that does not meet standards? i.e. failed gauge test, primer not being fully seated, primer flattened etc. Do you pull the bullet, reuse bullet/powder and throw primed case in the trash?
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