Bamboo

2011BLDR - I'm not calling out anybody. Starting with a .355 short chambered barrel is different than starting out with a barrel already reamed for 9mm Luger. The question was is it better to start with a 38 super barrel and tune the extractor to 38SC or to ream a 9mm Luger barrel with a 38 super reamer and run 38 SC. The 9mm is a tapered case and is larger in diameter towards the head of the case. I have reamers for both and that is how they are also. Every 9mm chamber I have is larger than the .388" at chamber mouth of the typical super chamber. By how much is a function of the finish chamber reamer used (or machining) by the manufacturer of the barrel. I've had 38 supers that were reamed from 9mm lugar and they worked and functioned fine but they bulged the brass and it was a PIA with lots of losses during resizing and reloading because of the bulged cases. Given the choices the OP asked for, the answer is to go with a barrel already reamed for 38 super. And yes, I have barrels from Schuemann and others that started life as .355 short chambers. When they are reamed to 9mm lugar some material is shaved from the chamber mouth. For that matter when they were reamed to 38 super some material was removed. Short chambered so you can finish ream to your specs, and that may be match tight. I stand by my statement.

I use Clay Dot for 38 short colt revolver, .45acp in 1911s, and some in 9mm pistol loads. All of my loads were developed in my guns with a chrono. the only info I've found on Clay Dot loads is on these forums, never saw any published data from the mfg. If you don't have a chrono I'd recommend getting one and using that to work up your loads. Overall I've found Clay Dot to be slightly more forgiving than Clays when it comes to being spikey.

For my colt PCC I'm using Safariland 773 and 771s that were for Caspian doublestack mags. I can run around with fully loaded 32 rounder without fear of it falling out.

Super with AA#7 and either 115 or 124 grain bullets is a nice combination. I doubt you will be disappointed.

Bummer, never heard of one breaking like that, but they will replace it/fix it for free and you will be back in the ammo making biz soon.

This is the reason I load JHP at 1.235 and FMJ at 1.250 OAL. The corner to corner dimension is about the same for these two loads. Having some clearance in the mag is important. Checkout www.38super.net for some of the articles with nice pictures that explains this.

To amplify what Rigger said, I used Leupold 2x-7x and 2.5x-8x scopes for muli-gun matches years ago, as did many others, and did well. Of course, the basic philosophy was that anything less than about 40yd was pistol or shotgun and from 40 yds out was rifle with lots of targets in the 100-400 yard range. Shooting rifle in pistol bays requires a 1x or near 1x scope of some type.

Just an FYI - reaming a 9mm to 38 super/supercomp is not a great way to go. The dimensions at the base of 9mm is larger so your brass will bulge. If you want a 38 super/supercomp get a barrel that was reamed for it (with a 38 super Nonte reamer) and then adjust or change your extractor to run super or supercomp.

If you don't mind a basic riflescope with a simple reticle and don't want to spend a bunch, the Weaver 1-3x is worth a look. I got one on a 16" AR and it is plenty clear, holds zero, and does exactly what it is suppose to do. For a 170 buck scope I was very pleased.

I bought a bunch of the Wolf mag SPP when they were being closed out (Grafs? Weidners? now sure now) for $16/1k. Been using them for my 38super open loads, and regular 9mm PCC and pistol loads. They work fine and seem to decrease the SD by a few points in the low charge weights seen in tailored130-ish pf PCC loads. Not a huge difference and not worth it to purchase them specifically unless they are a good deal as others have said.

Caspian slide would be my pick.

Also, Aero Precision is having a sale on their handguards this weekend.

I have a couple knurled aluminum tube handguards and they feel and function great. So the bang for the buck is high and the double star looks nice. I also like the Nordic components NC-1 handguards a lot - very durable, well made, easy to install, and priced well. Not super heavy, but not ultra light either.

That Taccom barrel is a pretty cool concept. Maybe Tim will chime in and tell us about the chamber and if it accepts long bullets, coated bullets (.356-.357), etc. Also would be interested to find out if the headspacing is tailored to a specific bolt or ??? I'd consider building an upper with that if I could use my Kaw valley bolt and if it took RN .356-.357 coated bullets out to 1.1400 -ish

Wideners has Alliant Clay Dot for $109/8 lbs and CCI small pistol primers for $26/1k this week.

The tumblers and rotary separators from Midsouth are good. Here is a complete set-up for less than $75. https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item/00038502024/tumbler-kit-(tumbler-and-separator-and-media-and--and-brass-polish)

I'm assuming you have a large frame Tanfo. No, the 38 super round is too long for the 9mm mags (they have a spacer in the back) However, you can use 9mm in 38 super mags in that gun and if your gun is throated you can load long if you want.

^^^ Same experience here. No leading and minimal fouling in the comp with coated bullets. I see no reason to use jacketed.

Just as an FYI - I have a 16" blow back PCC and Winchester white box (115 gr) chronos around 1400fps for a 160-ish power factor. I've shot some 9mm pistol loads that are run about 140-ish pf in a 5" gun and get over 165pf in the 16" pcc. I think that running 9mm open gun major loads would be hairy in a PCC and totally counterproductive. Also, handloaded 115 grain bullets at 130 pf are a lot softer shooting than Winchester white box. The comp seems to have an effect at 130pf as I've tried a couple different comps and without any comp and there is a slight but noticeable difference in the feel of the rifle. Also, a comp that has holes in the side helps capture the times. When i was using a Kaw Valley linear comp (which I liked) I had one match where I had to reshoot two stages because the timer wasn't capturing (last) shots.

Sounds like there is some loctite on the screws. Assuming it is Red loctite you need to apply about 550 degrees to the screw: Torch, big azzed soldering iron, or possibly a heat gun would work. I'd remove the C-more to ensure it doesn't get damaged. http://henkeladhesivesna.com/blog/how-to-remove-red-threadlocker/

Agreed. Best thing since sliced bread if you shoot a lot of .22. The thing works great.

The magwell shown on mine (third post of this thread) is one of bmiller's creations. It is machined from nylon and works great on my psa colt lower. It is nearly a press fit, but I use nylon screws to keep it locked on.

2nd the white vinegar dampened q-tip suggestion. Used to use alcohol, but vinegar works so much better. I just use a microfiber towel if necessary to clean lens at match.

I squeezed the TTI +3/4 base pads in a padded vice so the top lip engagement is reduced about .020"-ish. Slides on easily and has plenty of engagement with the metalform base plate lips. It was kind of sketchy before squeezing. I get a nice 35 round mag with these.

Not terribly uncommon, especially with the shotgun powders. Solo1K comes to mind as being known for having lot to lot variances in handguns. Since most shot gunners reload using bushing powder throws based on charts, and to make the wad column the correct height so they crimp well, the shotgun powders are trying to keep their energy per unit of volume the same for the shotgun reloaders, while metallic reloaders want the energy per unit of weight to be the same.