12glocks

TTI sells their springs as well.

I think jacketed bullets are the least problematic in general. Ours take 23 and work. I would leave them loaded for a week and try it. Maybe change to a different mag body and try that. I have had good luck with ours in Gen 3 and Gen 5 Glock 34's running the same recoil spring about 130 PF 147 gr PD's. Is the gun brand new? Does it run flawless with factory mags?

Grip

https://www.amazon.com/JW-Systems-Dillon-Primer-Bearing/dp/B01L9Q2TX4

If your 650 breaks before a match and your not well ahead that could be an issue. That's why I have two 650's now, plus it's easier. I have my 550 set up for large primer stuff. Yours could be your back up for your 650. But if your not a match shooter, maybe you don't need it.

They are local to me and have sponsored some matches I have shot. I will give that a look thanks!

I have questions about this as well. I watched the Atlas Gun Works youtube video? Is that what it is like? I don't know the right dimensions for the feed lips either. Perhaps this is varied based on the actions of the gun.

Thanks to all for their contributions! Mama and I are weighing the options...

The port work on the factory Benelli 3 gun models was not as good as Aaron Hayes or TTI work that I have seen though that could have changed. I want my port recut by Hayes Custom Guns, those are the best I have seen. I am sure there are others. If I were doing it all over again I would just buy a turn key gun from one of the big names and be done with it. It's a bitter financial pill to swallow but worth it.

My wife and I both shoot 3 gun. My son wants to shoot 3 gun but he is an 84 pound 12 year old. We thought we could get him a PCC to shoot for a year or two until he gets bigger and can manage a 12 gauge without getting beat up. I can build an AR no problem but really don't want to build a PCC. I would rather buy one, foolish maybe, I don't know? I would love to get a JP, but again it's for a 12 year old to use for a couple of years. Here would be what I am looking for: Less than $1000, runs like a Glock, has the capability to change the trigger or a good trigger from the factory, full length forend or capability to change. I know Sig makes one or two, Ruger has one. Also I just won a Hyperfire Competition Hypertouch, will this work in a PCC? Any other suggestions are appreciated!

One of our rifles with a Odin Work ultra-lightweight barrel that shot sub moa, went to pieces when I put a tighter handguard on there. I switched back to a roomier Samson Evolution handguard and it shot sub moa again. That same handguard works fine on a different rifle with a heavier barrel profile. I figure that lightweight barrel whipped too much and the gas block was hitting the handguard. If you shoot a 60 or 70 round stage in a match those slimmer handguards get to hot also (or more properly are closer to the heat), like getting a burn hot, FWIW. I agree with the other poster, process of elimination.

I have two of the metal inserts. I did not know there was another, I may try it next. I would say the metal inserts are not perfect but adequate.

I assume your talking Dillon Super Swage 600? I adjust mine by screwing the swaging rod in until it's tight on something like a Winchester case, then swage and see how the primers seat. I will do fine adjustments from there. If your having a problem just call Dillon. I have made a few mistakes with Dillon reloading equipment and they walked me through it.

Spartanburg Practical Shooters Association has bimonthly matches that are very good. https://www.facebook.com/shootspsa.org/ The Clinton House Plantation (at the Clinton exit) has very good 3 gun matches. They have a website with a match schedule I believe as well.

https://www.shootersconnectionstore.com/Jager-Captured-Steel-Guide-Rod-for-Gen5-P5051.aspx I use this with a IMSI 13# Glock spring. 11# is to light for the Gen 5 34's in my experience, the guide rod is longer, slide has more mass on the 34's etc. Don't know about the 17's. I have never used the rod for Wolff Springs and I sure it would be fine too. Maybe not the solution you're looking for but a solution...

I am pretty generous with the One Shot Case Lube when loading pistol on a 650. It says it dries in one minute approximately. When I check powder charges you can see sometimes a little powder wants to stick to the case wall, I assume from the waxy nature of the lube. Now I guess your real question is: does it affect combustion of the propellant? Hornady says it does not. My chronograph says it does not affect combustion. I also tumble my lubed LOADED rounds for 5 minutes and the chronograph says there is no change there either. I think it is good to be objective and question your reloading practices, or else you can not improve. I think your good using the case lube. I suppose you could spray an extreme amount of case lube on the cases and test that as a stress test but it seems like we would have heard something about One Shot affecting propellant combustion in the last couple of decades. I personally have not. Maybe this thread will elucidate that. On a tangent I buy the Dillon Case Lubricant in bulk for trimming brass with my Dillon power trimmer (for rifle). I do not believe it makes the same claims as One Shot about not affecting the propellant so I only use that for brass trimming. I will have to go read the label on that product...

https://blade-tech.com/products/wrs-lv-2 My wife and I use the Blade Tech WRS Holsters and they are providing good service in 3gun. We do not use the hood on every stage.

Perhaps, unless you want to break it free but you could use a torch. On a whim I tired blue loctite (Not sure which one, it's the new oil resistant variant I believe) on a barrel installation and the gun shot great. I tried to remove the barrel out of the upper and that sucker is in there big time. I have not shot any 70 round stages with the gun though. Looking at the JP info on thermal dissipators makes me think most of the heat is well in front of the receiver extension, which is logical.

Let us know how it shoots!

IMO yes, I am going to make a change in my carbine management to mitigate recoil based on a DH video. I just signed up. There are some pearls. I would say it would be a gold mine for new folks.

Is there more freebore on the KKM barrel? Your present situation is one of the reasons I don't like coated rounds. I like 147's and don't want to load them really short, doesn't seem like best practice. If you buy say, 2000 Precision Delta 124 JHP for 8.4 cents per round delivered, your problem will be fixed as well. This is my personal choice of course and I am not trying to start a debate about the issue.

Yes heat up the receiver is what it should have said. Loctite 609 is what was recommended by Criterion Barrel in their series on accurizing the AR. I looked at 620 tonight and perhaps it is adequate but I don't know.

I would heat the barrel with a heat gun, I suspect this will do it. I would add the Loctite 609 because it will at 3000 PSI tensile strength and increase the rigidity of the interface. Like the other poster suggested I also measure the OD of the barrel extension and the ID of the receiver. They should be very close. I am a believer in this technique obviously.

I see some 17L's in 3 gun and some 6" 2011's too. TTI has a 17L variant. I had a 24 that I shot limited with in IPSA. There are a lot of Glock 34's in 3 gun. If they come out with a Gen5 17L I may get one for 3 gun because I am definitely on the Gen 5 bandwagon. I worry the 17L could be a little nose heavy. I shot one years ago and it shot well is all I recall. You should get one and see if you like the 17L. If Not you can sell it.

Yes! I think a match saver would be a nice addition to a goose gun also. That something that is on virtually every 3 gun shotgun. Here is a link in case its not on your radar. You don't need it for your first match. http://www.matchsaverz.com/Matchsaverz/Home.html I have had the best luck with this one, not the copy I tried.