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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About Frankly

  • Rank
    Sees Sights
  • Birthday 11/11/1959

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Spencerport, NY
  • Interests
    Recreational shooter, occasional 3-gun and pistol club matches, safe but not an expert.

    Shooting an Atlas Titan 2011; Franchi Affinity RAS modified; DIY ARs.
  • Real Name
    Frank Petronio

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  1. Search for refurbished Vortex and there is a company that sells their refurbs, I've bought a Razor 1-6 II and a Viper 3-15ffp with no problems and they have been great scopes. My only complaints about the more expensive Vortex scopes is that they are the heaviest in their class and you absolutely need a throw lever because the zoom rings are tighter than a midget prom date. Why Vortex doesn't just build the throw ring into the design is beyond me? I had a Trijicon 1-4 Accupower that was light, reasonablely priced and decent glass... Sometimes I kind of wish I stopped there but the Razor 1 to 1 illumination is superb even with my astigmatism that makes red dots blobs. Agree you don't want FFP for 3Gun, I pretty much only use 1x or 6x so there is no point to it. I love it for longer range and target shooting though. I've owned a couple Strike Eagles and they are fine for the price, you can still recoup most of the cost and now that the 1-6s are only $219 on sale how can you complain? However if you have $400 you can get a used Trijicon 1-4 like above and it's a really decent scope if you can get past the 4x (which was standard up until a few years ago).
  2. Can’t we blame Springfield just for the sake of being Fuddy though?
  3. Atlas 2011 and Sig P365 (and Glock 19 in bedroom lock box).
  4. Turns out it really was a fat bead of paint. Only a few seconds of sanding cleared it up. Achieved the nice tight fit as desired. Such drama, thanks for reading.
  5. Use your semi to start. Go shopping at a specialist shop or attend a field day. Swing a bunch of guns, see what fits and feels right. Then wait for a good used example to come up. Adjustable combs, butts and even ribs can make the gun work even better. I have to shoot clays for clients socially otherwise I wouldn’t, I don’t care for it, feels like golf. I have owned a Beretta 391, Browning BT-99, Beretta 682 combo, etc. Honestly I’m tempted to get a 1980s vintage Remington Wingmaster and put an adjustable stock on it, call it one and done. It’s odd to bring a pump gun but they work well.
  6. Well... in case nobody answers here's what I found with more search engine diligence. It might help somebody here down the road. From places like AR15.com so probably not the most reliable expert opinions but most people said that doing the frozen shrunken barrel and heat expanded upper was the way to go. Freezing the barrel 24 hours gets it as small as possible whilst heating the upper with a heat gun or torch isn't as large a gain (Steel versus Aluminum). Others used Scotch Brite on the barrel extension and others used a progression of 200-400-1000 grit Aluminum Oxide on the receiver throat. Most used a rubber mallet and wood block but sparingly, not full force. The few with calipers reported 0.003" difference being too tight and how far the heat/freeze technique moved. Some Benchrest National Match shooter claimed to be the world's expert on this and tried to hold court. Other guys argued for loose fits. Some people typed in ALL CAPS. The rest of the gun internet is scary. All these guys mentioned only being able to get their barrels inserted halfway with hand pressure, versus mine that will go the first 1/8". My experience with calipers is limited but I found a 0.009 difference between barrel and receiver so I have a lot larger move than the guys above. My dealer finally came around and said that properly applied Cerakote was no thicker than anodizing so don't blame the Cerakote. But he did say that about half his Aero uppers ran tight and he did the heat/freeze technique when needed. Looking closer, I suspect that the Cerakote must have gathered at the front of the receiver throat. Perhaps I caught the Monday hungover shift? But I'm going sand off as much as I need to get my barrel inserted halfway, freeze and heat, and lube the extension with lots of Aeroshell. I'll have the rubber mallet ready and can also use the barrel nut to pull it tight. I hope it's not such a big move that the receiver cracks but if I can get the barrel extension half way in I should be safe. Also learned that heating and freezing parts is used in the Aerospace industry so it's definitely legit. Thanks for the help! Har Har
  7. So I had an Aero Precision upper Cerakoted and they did the inside where the barrel extension slides in. I have a new Faxon pencil barrel I want to use and it is such a tight fit that I can only "get the tip in" about 1/8". There is no lip of paint build up and the Cerakote guy did an otherwise good even job (except he hasn't yet returned my call with my complaint.... going on 48 hours.). I'm not super experienced but I tried some other barrels and they were also tight, one went about 1/2" with full hand pressure, the others were only 1/8". I've built several naked guns with tight barrel to upper fits that needed some thermal expansion/contraction (heat the upper, freeze the barrel) and some good wacks with a rubber mallet/wood. But nothing to this degree. I fear bending the pencil barrel or having it seize partway in. Right now I plan to return it and have the guy make it right, if I can not use a mass market quality barrel then it's no good to me and he needs to fix that. BUT... if I have to, what is the best way to open up this upper throat without introducing some sort of cant or warp? I also would like to understand this better in case the seller offers to fix this, the last thing I want is a sloppy fit. I imagine there is a drill chuck wire brush out there, any advice what size and kind to get? Or are we looking for a gunsmith with a lathe? Or just start over with a new upper (which might be cheaper in the end). Frustrated because it would probably be my best build yet and it does look great but cripes! Thanks
  8. I want a picture of a chapped Tiger's ass, would make a great avatar. So do you clean the chamber before the barrel or do you clean the barrel then the chamber? Because all those micro shavings you're getting out of the chamber are going down your pristine barrel, either by a patch or a bullet.
  9. I'm getting more serious about my ammo testing and my bipod and bags are not cutting it anymore. I've never shot "Benchrest" and do not own any sort of rifle rest but I'd like something solid and easy to use with AR15 type guns rather than conventional bolt guns. I want something of decent quality - better than a Caldwell plastic $30 rig - but probably not an expensive competition benchrest kit either. I don't need screw levels on each leg or anything ridiculous like a Ransom Rest. $100-$200 is what I'm expecting. Any suggestions? If you tell me to just get a rabbit ear bag that's more than what I've got. Secondly, for ammo testing and shooting the tightest groups possible, what is a short primer on how I should hold and fire? Maintain shoulder contact and a firm handgrip, slow trigger pull? Do I want the gun locked down 100% with no shaking in the scope (albeit only 6x, not 30x)? Do I want to build my rifle's platform, get it locked down on target and only lightly mount and pull the trigger or am I looking to brace the rifle and push-pull to make myself one with it and shoot it as though I'm prone? Thanks
  10. GunCat in this thread is too modest to promote himself but he is one of the best 3Gun gunsmiths in the business and knows the Franchis having done mine.
  11. Having owned both M2s and 1301s their build quality is similar. 1301 will have softer recoil but require more frequent cleaning. And at least the earlier 1301s are lighter and quirkier, especially the bolt release. They are also fast guns, if all you do is a mag dump you can shoot it empty in a second or two. The M2 will be stouter but more reliable, especially when dirty. It also feels more solid to me. But you'll notice slugs more. Their manual of arms are very different, I find the M2 (and Steoger, Franchi clones) to be more logical and simple to me. Now I use a Franchi that with gunsmith work comes in at the price of a new unmodified M2. Other than one spring being in a different position I can not find any difference from the M2 other than the shape/cosmetics of the stock. To me I'd use a good smith for opening up the loading port once and done, rather than spending all Summer tweaking it. And the other often overlooked job a good smith can do it align your slug and birdshot POA/POI which rarely agree out of the box. The funny thing is that Beretta owns ALL the above mentioned brands.
  12. https://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/barrel-parts/rifle-barrels/ar-15-barrels-fluted-stainless-steel-rifle-length-prod84773.aspx?cm_mmc=cse-_-Itwine-_-shopzilla-_-100-030-106&utm_medium=cse&utm_source=connexity&utm_campaign=itwine&utm_content=100-030-106&avs|Make_3=AR-15&avs|Manufacturer_1=criterion+barrels+inc&avs|Cartridge_1=AJO_223%2bWylde 18" Fluted Stainless Criterion Barrel nice and tight into an Aero upper, shoots 1/2 MOA with 77gr. Weighs 2.15 lbs (~34ounces) and isn't pencil thin. I've had 5-6 16" guns prior and I like the extra length although I am thinking of adding a heavier stock, like a Magpul UBR to balance the rifle. And I think I will probably end up building a lightweight billet gun down the road (and keep both).
  13. "But it's a dry heat." lol I've read reviews where they try to explain the relatively heavy pull weights are grit free and break like glass, etc.
  14. Recent production Sig P365, hopefully all the kinks are worked out, seems fine. It shoots the best of all the small 9mms I've tried and the extra capacity is a bonus too. G19 with light at home.
  15. My Biiaattcchheezz go hard
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