12glocks

I have changed two striker springs in 15 years (to be fair I took an 8 year break when my kids were born). I have always 100% ignited Winchester primers with a Wolff 4# spring though I primarily load Federal. I have a number of friends doing this as well. Is your striker stock? I just got a Gen 5 34 and did my usual mods: Dawson sights, TTI grandmaster trigger package, Jager SS guide Rod with IMSI 13# spring, polish internals and thats it. I change the recoil spring when it gets sluggish going into battery, thats it. I have loaded coated bullets that were a little fat and did not quite fully seat in the chamber with a subsequent light hit on the primer also. Hope this helps!

It has the biggest effect on lightening the trigger pull weight. I think the connector is the other big factor.

I totally disagree with the poster above and think installing a reduced power striker spring is imperative. I think a Wolff 4.5 pound spring will ignite almost everything and a 4 pound spring will ignite Federal and Winchester primers for a decade of competitive shooting. You can get too light of a striker spring with some brands but I use either the TTI kit now or Wolff. Make sure you test and changes prior to a match. I you are shooting lighter loads you can lighten the recoil spring to 13 pounds or so. I used the stock spring forever it just causes a little more nose dive. I broke one extractor on a G17 purchased used and wore a MIM Gen 3 extractor out (I think). I change recoil springs periodically and carry a spare striker spring with me. I have only ever replaced other shooters striker springs during a match. I think your barking up the wrong tree on the other items.

They still have polygonal rifling. Lockup, improved rifling and crown contribute to the increase in accuracy. I guess the slightly improved trigger too. Shoot one, you will see!

I have every Gen except the 1st and most are 9mm. My wife and I now each have Gen 5 34's and I could tell immediately the Gen 5 guns are more accurate. I am very impressed with the Gen 5's! I did not care so much for the Gen 4's.

^^ I would do this and leave the stock springs in if the gun is pure tactical. Another option would be the - connector with a Wolff competition spring kit but I like the TTI kits better. The Gen 5 guns are noticeably more accurate and the triggers are better.

Since precision has basically zero consideration for the ammo you are proposing, I would use a Dillon dies for the specified type of ammo you propose to make. When you get them you will see they are designed to run on a progressive and will feed the brass and bullets better. Dillon dies are of robust construction as well. Should increased precision come more into play I would change my opinion on that. My bullet runout is markedly less with a Forster inline seating die than a Dillon for example but more care must be exercised when using it. There is some toolhead float so make sure when you set up your sizing die you keep turning it down until the size case drops in a case gauge. It's not like a single stage in that way. FWIW I am loading 1/2 MOA ammo with SD's in the teens on my 650 with the factory powder measure. Runout is .003 or less on average. My purpose for this ammo is 3 gun not long range precision.

The Gen 5 finish is more slippery. My Gen 5 Glock 34 is pre front serrations. The most compelling reason to change to a Gen 5 gun to me is the accuracy increase, and the trigger is better. Cocking serrations would be a bonus. I have a Gen 3 34 for comparison.

I learned a lot when I got a Sinclair concentricity gauge. One point for me is inline seater dies work. Just a thought...?

Current N320 user here for 9 minor. I find tight group to be flawed in a number of ways. With its high nitroglycerin content, its temp sensitive and gets the gun hot. It is not bulky and is easier to double charge a case and blow up a pistol but it is cheap. I found N320 to be bulkier, more consistent, cleaner, and softer but it is much more expensive. I recently evaluated Alliant Sport Pistol and basically found it to be the twin of N320 charge and velocity wise. Its temp stable, meters better, and has less smoke than N320 and Titegroup. It is a little less bulky than N320 so a minor adjustment on the powder measure is needed. There is a noteworthy amount of loading data appropriate for what we do for 9 and 40 including 160 grain 9mm bullets and 200 grain 40 bullets, lead bullets, plated and maybe coated. I am switching over to Sport Pistol picking up my first 8 pounds this weekend. Its going to be lot easier to put 32 pounds of Sport Pistol aside for the next democrat in the Whitehouse than it would be for N320. N320 is now my second choice and I find it superior to Titegroup.

Just curious if your running an M2 and what reliability problems your having?

Especially if your running a 16" tube right now. Longer would be better for long range. I know it would be a shame to build a new upper and all...

First off (perhaps not for the OP) you want a +9 tube to hold 12+1. That way if there is movement prior to engaging targets you have time to drop 4 shells in en route. We heard the Task Force Dagger Match would have a 9 round tube limit but it was 9 to start, not max capacity. Blue Ridge may still have that limitation. Secondly, I believe there is an advantage to a 26" tube in velocity AND patterning. How many percent gain in each of those I do not know but the guys running the Saiga's run much tighter chokes and generally hotter loads than guys with longer tubes for the same target array. Part of the hotter load for Saiga's maybe to cycle the gun properly but there is also a velocity loss with the even shorter tubes on there. There are top level competitors using both (plus Saiga's). The shotgun is not the most quick indexing platform. I will only do 26 personally but if my little girl needed something lighter etc I would consider it a 24. Indian>Arrow but I used to shoot a lot of clays and those guns run 28-32" tubes, I feel for best ballistics, at least for that game. Post pictures of your gun! I imagine the port is pretty amazing!

I tested Sport Pistol the other day in some Glock 34's. Precision Delta 147 Fed 100, COL 1.145 3.4 gr 880 FPS. I thought it had low smoke and was very accurate. Four of us shot it and we were unable to perceive the difference between the SP 3.4 and N320 3.4 gr load. Thanks for posting your test results!

Have 2 of them and they run great fully loaded. Our rifles have ML or rifle gas with full mass bolt and H buffers. Some of our friends with lightweight bolt carrier groups and buffers have had some issues with them.

I see no quad rails at 3 gun match's. Maybe LEO/MIL is still using not sure? I don't know if they sell rifles with them anymore. The OD is HUGE on quad rails and you can attach whatever you want to keymod or mlok. I would recommend a 15" rail whatever you get.

I can run the same load more consistent than my friend on his 650. If you are new, focus on doing the same thing every time. If you have a hard time getting a primer in and give it a little extra power, the next powder charge maybe a little different. This is not a problem with most ammo depending on the precision requirements if you are not on the edge pressure wise. You will probably smooth out as the thousands of rounds go by. Focus on consistency in technique, not rounds per hour. I get very little drift over time on my tool heads.

I have tried the Breda and I run an M2. If you are competitive, I really believe the comfortech stock does mitigate recoil somewhat decreasing your splits. I think the shim capability of the M2 is a plus and I don't know if Breda offers that feature. Probably more parts for the M2. Four years ago I choose between the 1301 and the M2 and I still think very highly of Beretta. I heard the port of the Benelli, when enhanced is superior to the 1301 for loading, don't know about the Breda but it looks like a Benelli. I think the 1301 would be softer shooting than an M2. I believe you can reverse the safety on the M2 but not sure. Our match loads are 1 oz at 1180-1200 FPS, pretty soft. Hope this helps I have only tried the Breda and 1301 and I know your not asking about the 1301 per se but for comparison sake...

I think there are a lot of thoughtful replies on this thread and I would like to add something I neglected from my original post as another point of consideration. I elected to get a hand fit gunsmith built gun but the production guns seem to run well also in the games I am around. I don't feel like I have the experience to comment on the strengths and weaknesses of hand fit vs production but I believe hand fit guns are better. There are some decent deals here on 2011's on enos also with regularity worth consideration.

Gen 5 guns are noticeably more accurate an are probably going to be my choice going forward. I believe it is published that the Gen 5 guns (the 17 I believe specifically) are designed to shoot into 3" at 50 yards from a machine rest.

Thanks I was going to tune the feed lips too. Grams Engineering was my plan on the guts.

I shoot both in 3 gun and got a hand built 2011 last year. The 2011 runs good with fresh mags but now I am experiencing some stoppages and need to tune the mags. Bottom line is the 1911/2011 platform is more accurate with better triggers and all that and they cost more. Be prepared to figure out what the gun needs to run and do some tuning of mags, load, grip etc. Glocks you just feed bullets mostly.

I think we know the long term effects of lead and what acceptable level (mine is like 12) etc. I do not know anything about the inhalation of aerosolized bullet coatings. Perhaps it's benign, perhaps one day we will learn its a carcinogen. I used to shoot indoors a lot and my lead level was very high. I don't do it much anymore. I personally like jacketed bullets, but not for the reason this thread is discussing.

I have used Lyman, Frankfort, and both Dillon's. Going forward, the large Dillon will be the only way I go.

I shot it with 8208 up to 2670 FPS out of an 18" tube. Accuracy was OK but not as good as the Hornady 75 gr BTHP, or the Sierra 77 TMK.