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12glocks

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About 12glocks

  • Rank
    Sees Sights
  • Birthday 06/10/1965

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Hendersonville NC
  • Interests
    Competitive Shooting, Cycling, Cooking
  • Real Name
    Mark Klein

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  1. I would heat the barrel with a heat gun, I suspect this will do it. I would add the Loctite 609 because it will at 3000 PSI tensile strength and increase the rigidity of the interface. Like the other poster suggested I also measure the OD of the barrel extension and the ID of the receiver. They should be very close. I am a believer in this technique obviously.
  2. I see some 17L's in 3 gun and some 6" 2011's too. TTI has a 17L variant. I had a 24 that I shot limited with in IPSA. There are a lot of Glock 34's in 3 gun. If they come out with a Gen5 17L I may get one for 3 gun because I am definitely on the Gen 5 bandwagon. I worry the 17L could be a little nose heavy. I shot one years ago and it shot well is all I recall. You should get one and see if you like the 17L. If Not you can sell it.
  3. Yes! I think a match saver would be a nice addition to a goose gun also. That something that is on virtually every 3 gun shotgun. Here is a link in case its not on your radar. You don't need it for your first match. http://www.matchsaverz.com/Matchsaverz/Home.html I have had the best luck with this one, not the copy I tried.
  4. One of my good freind's in the game has run the SBE's (his sons shoot also). You need to run hotter ammo and you can't just buy a carrier for them. But I would make the port easier to load . now and if you love the game and your a Benelli man get a M2 or Beretta n 1301 or maybe a Breda. The M2's are nice because they run the low recoil slugs well. The Beretta's are nice but I heard from a good source they Benelli port can be made a little better. BUT I know that Beretta relocated the serial number so maybe that is no longer true. Just get out and shoot. Any changes you want will be self evident I think.
  5. 12glocks

    Best Connector??

    TTI Grandmaster kit. Simple, cheap and effective.
  6. I put channel locks on the handle shaft near the bottom and the appropriate box end wrench on the nut and tighten it. It scratches the surface of the handle a little but does not move. I found just holding the handle and tightening did not work.
  7. Thanks for the update and sending me the file!
  8. I loaded a unzippng utility on my Macbook. After extraction there were only 27 loads so it must have been corrupted at some level. I appreciate the hard work of the OP in this endeavor and have seen some of his data before and it was good! I would like to say with the greatest respect that in the era of high speed internet connections, I don't really think it's necessary to compress a spreadsheet file. It's not a audio or video file so and excel file should download in a second or two. The old KISS rule is coming to mind here. I am not sure if the OP's compression utility is proprietary or the decompression is not making the jump to my Mac or what? OR, perhaps there is some forum specific file size requirement issue, I don't know? At any rate, I give up here unless someone would graciously like to upload a noncompressed version of the file. Thanks for listening.
  9. What is a .7z extension? I have office and was unable to view the data. I just installed office so I wonder if I have a glitch.
  10. I followed the steps in the series above. Interestingly, the first barrel i got my wife for 3 gun was a Odin Works 18" 3 gun barrel. We put a couple hundred rounds and one match through it. It was too heavy for her and we changed it out for a lighter barrel. Later when I shot out a barrel on my match rifle, I took her original barrel (which shot about .75 MOA) and mounted on my rifle with a new tight BCM upper which I lapped and bedded with green loctite. It shot 0.38 MOA after that, a real hammer. I just rebarreled another rifle for my son and used the same technique. I have not shot it off a rest yet though, just got it kinda zeroed and adjusted the gas block Saturday. I am convinced this technique is a benefit, not a detriment. I am not a member at Snipers Hide, but my impression is there are some posters over there that are pretty sophisticated as far as reloading and longer range shooting goes.
  11. My wife and I both 3 gun and have Gen 2-5 34's and 35's. For 3 gun I would get the Gen 5 gun because there are long range pistol shots in 3 gun and the Gen 5 guns are more accurate. I have been into Glocks since 1999 and the Gen 5's are more accurate. Some people poo poo that, but I don't care, it's true. Ask Glock! It was a requirement for the Army pistol trials or something. We both switched from Gen 3 34's to Gen 5 34's and we both agree we like them better. Upsides of the Gen 5 are better trigger. I went TTI Gen 5 kit with polish job. There is a longer sight radius also, MOS if you want it, and better accuracy as mentioned. Downside are increased cost, no adjustable sight made that I know of. We have had great luck with the Dawson Precision sights made for the Gen 5, and the mag release is a little short. There is a factory Glock extended slide release for the Gen 4 guns that also works in the Gen 5 and we installed those. The mass of the slide is a little heavier and the recoil spring assembly is a little longer so I would recommend something like a Jager guide rod and a 13# ISMI recoil spring, the gun would not going into battery well with an 11 pound spring.. If you go with a Gen 4 gun I personally would do the same parts appropriate for the Gen 4 plus change to a Gen 3 trigger bar assembly. Its part number 357 and has no bump on the trigger bar to drag on the slide. Glock was apparently worried there was flex in the trigger bar and it would move laterally and fail to disengage the mechanical striker block. I think its a non issue and changed one out in my wifes Gen 4 35 (for games where major is required). Incidentally, the geometry of the mechanical striker block (firing pin safety) was altered in the Gen 5 guns negating the need for the "bump" on the trigger bars. Bottom line is any Glock Gen will work. I would go with a 34. While any Gen will work, I think Gen 5 is most aptly suited to 3 gun because of the long shots and small steel. Make sure you know where your gun hits out to 50 yards for sure. If you want a 40 get a second gun, first world problems...
  12. The velocity increases don't make sense. My first thought was could there be an error with the powder dispenser. Do you have any rounds left you can pull and weigh the charges? I pooped some primers in days past when I just started shooting AR's with carbine gas systems. Now I use mid length or rifle gas systems with an adjustable gas block and I think the bolt stays closed longer so the case can depressurise and there is less chance to poop a primer. A can would arguably increase the back pressure and unlock the bolt sooner but that does not explain the velocity increase, at least to me. Following...
  13. I shoot 75/77 class bullets for 3 gun. You will get higher velocities with the ball propellants as a rule owing the the higher nitroglycerin content. I have tried the older propellants like 748 and BLC-2 and there ok but I find that they do not have a broad accuracy node and are more finicky. I found CFE 223 accurate across a broad range basically from 24-25 grains with a 75-77 grain bullet. It is easy to find a load for and accurate in a lot of guns. You can safely load way above that 25 grains according to the last two Hornady manuals for a 75 grain HPBT. TAC is also good and there is a known accuracy node (IMO) between 23 and 24 grains. Western powders has 5.56 data published for this propellant and 2520 as well and you can go much higher like the CFE but I lost accuracy in hand lapped match barrels. I use 8208 XRB because its temp stable and meters good through my Dillon measure with lower SD's than any ball propellant. I think it is the most accurate powder I have ever used. Make sure you check all the load data, the manufacturers website says 23.2 is max for a 77 SMK. The Lyman, Hornady and Berger manuals I have are more conservative than that sadly. Make sure you work up to 23.2 if you try it. When I called Sierra they quoted me the 23.2 for the TMK as well. I load for 3 match rifles on a 650 and the ammo is solid sub moa, SD's are in the high teens.
  14. I would probably get caddies if it were me but that just how I am. I use invictus practical but heard the Safariland is the best now. I would be get two 8 round caddies to start. I think you will find Vortex is the dominant optic in 3 gun for a good reason. Is money is tight I would get a Strike Eagle if not I would get one of these: https://www.midwayusa.com/product/921516/vortex-optics-viper-pst-gen-ii-rifle-scope-30mm-tube-1-6x-24mm-1-2-moa-adjustments-illuminated-vmr-2-moa-reticle-matte If you can afford the same optic in a Razor I would do that. Use your more accurate rifle and use heavy bullets beyond 200. I use Blade Tech Holsters (WRS) and mag pouches but really any are fine. Retention holsters are common in 3 gun. You can get that carrier welded up an C-Rums gunsmithing but if you are instantly hooked you can send your gun to someone like Hayes Custom guns and they will do the whole deal or you can do your own work and have your carrier welded up. If you did not have a SBE you could buy a lifter. I changed everything after I started shooting but my formula is AR 15 with 15" free float forend, 18" or 16" match rifle barrel and a good brake, adjustable gas block, good trigger, Glock 34 or 2011, Benelli M2 with port, lifter work and rear sight plus caddies and a chest rig. Don't forget the sun screen and Salomon Speedcross shoes
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