12glocks

Sorry that was a typo, I meant G34..

I have been into Glocks for 21 years or so. I never cared for the Gen 4 guns as much. I just got my second Gen 5, a 19 MOS and I have a Gen 5 35 also. I think the Gen 5 are hands down the best glocks of all, accurate with great triggers.

I have not. Glock used to sell their maritime spring cups as well if your interested in OE.

Lee or Dillon Sizing die in station 1 Standard powder drop Powder check die station 3 Dillon Seating Die in 4 Lee FCD in 5 I have one or two per 1000 that don't fit the gauge with this formula. I have more fail the gauge with all Dillon dies but the machine runs better. I really like the Dillon Seating die, its like a huge funnel and you can be less than perfect. If I was shooting coated bullets I would have a very light crimp with the FCD or consider a taper crimp die. I think the most bombproof thing is to use real jacketed bullets like Precision Delta or Montana Gold. I am not trying to start a debate about it BUT I have tried both coated and plated and respectfully submit plated that coated are more finicky, not the easy switch. My 2 cents.

I think this is a good thread. About 15 years ago, I tried a Lee Powder measure on a Dillon 550, and for whatever reason (my error), I had a couple of squibs. My brother-in-law fired one and then followed it with another shot in my Glock 26. It bulged the barrel, which I replaced, and the gun is still in service. I got a lot pickier after that, and I spring for the powder check dies now. Two 650's now constitute my primary reloading tools, and I do think auto-indexing is safer. If my powder check die alarms, I check the case, always. This has happened twice. One time a 9mm case had mud caked in the bottom, and the other, there was a little piece of plastic stuck in the case. I also used to be more cavalier about where I sourced 223 brass. I used to pick up more at matches, but after a case head separation, I mostly use once fired LC brass for my match rounds. I tumble brass for hours to hopefully loosen any mud or foreign objects and so on. I have seen some guns blow up in person, where the mag shoots out, the gun may or may not be ruined, and the shooter is lightly injured in the hands. It's just going to happen from time to time if you are around shooting enough. You have some experience with this earlier on, and I think it will make you a better reloader. Error tends to be the best teacher.

Tac at 25 grains is way over max in a lot of manuals for 223 pressure so it's probably not a good place to start. I know the Western Load data is hotter. My accuracy node for that bullet with Tac was 23.4 grains. I think it's about 2600 FPS out of an 18". I lost accuracy above that but a lot of guys go up to 24 grains of Tac. I have also had good luck with the 75 grain Hornady HPBT using CFE-223 in most rifles as well as 8208. I like Tac the least of the 3. I found the 73 ELD less accurate and velocities higher than the 75 HPBT, the 73 must have a longer bearing surface for sure.

I had the old 3 hole Lee Turret 30 years ago and hated it. I have a 550 and two 650's now. I like the 650 a lot better. I have used the Dillon Pistol dies but I use the Lee 4 die pistol sets except for the seating die, I use the Dillon there. I like the Lee FCD in the last station. If your not shooting a lot, the Lee machine will wok. I have a friend who shoots 3 gun with his two teenage boys. He kept breaking parts on the Lee Turret press and now has 3 Dillons. While I really like the Lee 4 die pistol set, after I got a Sinclair concentricity gauge, I have little respect for the Lee Rifle dies and Forster is my go to choice for more precision rifle stuff. The Dillon powder measure is more than adequate for pistol. I get a little spilled power. You can go up a 1/10th of a grain unlike the random jumps on the Lee disks. I you keep powder in it and have the fail-safe rod hooked up, its gonna drop powder. Its gonna cost roughly a grand to go with a 750 with the case feeder, but you will not regret it. Selling used yields about 80% of new prices in the Dillon world if you don't like it. My wife told me to get a 1050 and I wish I would have. My presses are stock. I recommend the strong mounts.

I am not judging either. There is a Titegroup debate from time to time and I know people will disagree. I am glad you found some Sport Pistol, things are a little lean again.

Last time I saw her she was a team Glock shooter running a minor gun. She is a hell of a 3 gunner as well.

I read till you got to the part about Titegroup and stopped. I have a friend that blew a gun up with Titegroup. I refuse to use it and I have been reloading for a long time. Filling the case is just safer. I used N320 for a few years but I am transitioning now to Alliant Sport Pistol. Both are in the same burn range and much more bulky. I load on a 650 and use a powder check. I don't know that it would alarm with a double charge of Titegroup. I've probably seen 20 or so guns blown up now through the years now, a fair amount with factory ammo. It happens for sure. I think it makes you more vigilant. I have a lot of very experienced friends running Titegroup (for years) but I want to build in a failure prevention strategy by not using it. I didn't like how hot the pistol got either (I tried it).

I thought that was good review!

Nothing.

I can shoot most any stock but if it does not have QD attachment points its usually out of the running.

I have 18" and 16" barrels. I do like both and seem to shoot them equally well though the 18" rifle gas barrel seems softer shooting long range targets. I have 5 Odin works barrels now and Odin Works has a sub moa guarantee. All my barrels shoot sub moa. I have never met an unhappy Criterion barrel owner either and I have wanted to get one for a long time. 2 moa is something I would not be happy with. I shot 68's for a while but find that 75 and 77 grain bullets shoot better. There are other barrels that are awesome but that is my experience. The main reason I kept buying more Odin barrels is because I would get them on sale at Primary Arms for about $200. That probably won't happen at this particular moment. I watched the Criterion barrel youtube series on accurizing the AR and I am 100% convinced it makes a difference. That is how I assemble now. After you do a few of these you will get more comfortable. https://criterionbarrels.com/media/accurizing-the-ar-15-video-series/

I would bet somebody with less than stellar skills did that during assembly or disassembly. I would just order another pin, and perhaps a locking block, and run it.

I have a 1-6 Razor that has been on various carbines being thrown in barrels since 2015 without a hiccup. I have looked through the Viper and they are nice. I think the Razors are built tougher. I have shot in several matches out to 500. I happened to go to a 700 yard range Sunday and was hitting steel pretty easily on 6x. I thought I could see the targets well. I have to admit I would like a 1-10. I am only doing three gun so 1-6 is fine. If there is an inordinate amount of profit in the Razor 1-6 then maybe a price cut. I don't think that is the case with the competition that is out there. I bought a used Razor off here used and now I want another. There is the VIP warranty and you do not have to be the original purchaser. If money is an issue, get a Viper.

I screwed up the hood on one of our WRS holsters the other day trying to make it easier to deactivate. I called Blade-tech for parts and they don't sell them. I was able to buy a new hood kit for $29 from a vendor. When I was talking to the customer service girl, she said they no longer do anything custom either. As an example, the last couple holsters I ordered, I requested no threadlocker. I told her the competative shooter is a DIY kind of person and we would like to just order parts from a website, like Dillon precision. She said she would pass it along but they are not doing that at this time. I did not know they moved to Ohio either. I am not sure I will be going with Blade Tech anymore in the future. I think I will look at Red Hill Tactical for the next holster. They have holsters with hoods.

My 3 gun setup> Dawson Precision sights, Jager SS guide rod, IMSI 13# spring, TTI grandmaster trigger kit. Nothing wrong with tungsten if you want it that I know of.. The Gen 5 guide rods are different dimensionally. The stock gen 5 RSA did not run 130 PF ammo well on 2 Gen 5 34's that we have. I can run a IMSI 11# spring (prefer a 13#) in the Gen 3 guns (34's) but not in the Gen 5's, they won't go into battery well.

This

Sometimes the overall lengths of slugs is different than shotshells. I would run the Fiocci.

I used to use it for 9 and 40 before switching to N320 or Sport Pistol. It is loud and quite accurate. There are published +P recipes for 9 and 45 and maybe 38 as I recall. It will be fine for all the calibers you listed.

I have a bunch of the 21 round magpul mags that I paid around $12 for. I have left them loaded for 2 years or more and they are running great, so good in fact, I just bought a dozen more for roughly the cost of an MBX. Maybe if I was a top 5% shooter in a big match...

I use and like N320 but have worked up Sport Pistol loads for 9mm and 40 major. SP is half the price and just as good. When my N320 is gone it won't be replaced, and I am stockpiling SP in the interim.

I am all Crossbreed Supertuck or minituck myself and I am very happy with the products. I am using the Crossbreed belts now too (they have sales). The biggest I carry is a Glock 17.

Definitely try the TTI striker spring first!