digi531

Hi, I've been loading VV N350 for several years now with no complaints or issues. My 38 SC load is a 121 gr JHP atop 8.3 gr. with OAL at about 1.245 and standard primers. This load gives a PF of about 172 in a full size gun, 5.4 barrel with four popple holes and Cheely TI. comp.. I've tried my friend 3N38 load I thought it felt harsh but loads like the guns feel subjective from person to person. The point is that most of these powders work well so experiment and decide what feels good to You with Your set up. Also, I like the fact that their is enough case space with this powder and no spillage issues no matter the loading speed.

Hi, I recently sold an open gun with RTS2 with repaired V4 board mounted on a Cheely older mount ( without the angle cut ) and the buyer had the same maxed out hight problem, and shooting low. I contacted Matt and he said the 1 deg cut helps but shouldn't limit height adjustment. I'm trying to help the buyer with suggestions before sending it back and told him perhaps a shim under the scope to raise it higher might work. The mount IS very low with the flat topped slide, but that shouldn't cause this problem, baffled.

Hello , my few thoughts on extractors. My last several open gun builds in 38 SC run with Aftec, except this years recent build having a standard one, for no special reason, both types work. With the Aftec design, the confusion I'm reading about seems to concern tension or lack of, as applied to the case rim. I my experience, the case or cartridge barley holds, if at all, against the breach face with an Aftec, and usually slips right off. In other words, I experience very little tension as applied to the case rim, especially in 38 super comp and yes, I've slightly bent Aftecs and other times have not. And I've done several things when experimenting with installation, some necessary, others I'm not to sure. Anyway, 1. bevel the FP stop per instructions, but don't over think it or try to measure a clearance; 2. smooth out the sharp line at the bottom head area and lightly polish; 3. ( this is very important ) when installed and with the FP stop in place, check and make sure the extractor head is not hitting barrel face. Of course the barrels have a extractor slot or notch but my experience has shown that with most barrels the Aftec (will) hit and I've always had to remove material from the forward head area. 4. Springs, I've always used both, no cutting, squeezing, omitting, etc. Also, someone above paid close attention and noticed the sharp lines on the neck area just behind the head area, and yes I too have filed those off to form a more rounded shape ( the old square peg in a round hole caught my attention ) in an attempt to increase tension. However. I'm not sure that did much because past installs worked fine without filing. Lastly ( sorry for being long winded ) my most recent extractor is a EGW heavy duty and the tension will NOT hold an empty case or cartridge against the BF and it works just fine. " Tension " anyone ?

I made the switch back to plastic from the aluminum grips after cracking problems and actually like it again. One thing I realized I missed is the reloads, the plastic grip is much more forgiving to poor reloads where the aluminum and steel is not. I've heard more than one competitor say the same thing when the reload is slightly off the mag will partially jam and add time but this doesn't seem to happen with plastic. Personally, I prefer the lighter grips.

Some history on the gun ? Was it running good before, did you change something, etc.. Twelve pound spring is on the heavy side. Make sure the extractor is fitted properly and the tunnel is clear of gunk, my first thoughts would be the ejector or extractor, but especially the extractor. If you have an old standard extractor lying around try it to rule out a problem with the Aftec and go from there.

I run 38 super comp and have always used two springs from the start and with no issues. You can compress the springs every so slightly with small pliers and use both springs then slide the round up the breach face and check tension.

Hello, check out the you tube video by Atlas Gunworks, they have a fix on that problem

I agree with the group here and would be surprised if that barrel is gone. Try a good quality bullet and as the others said check for bullet strike or a loose comp.

Hi JoeC, answering your question is difficult because open guns are so subjective in how they " feel " from one person to another. I feel most decent built open guns do the job and reduce felt recoil, after that the load development has a big role. Atlas Gunworks (guys in VT.) have an interesting youtube video on open gun design and what they feel is " state of the art " and Adam mentions that there is so much that can be done to open gun design. As a twenty year competitor and hobbyist builder I have come full circle building shorty's ( which are terrible ) mid-length, Infinity IMM size ( which are good for younger people ) and now back to full size. Like many, I have experimented with part selection, hybrid/barrel porting and comps, seeking that "magic" combination. Guess what ? I'm still looking.

Hello, I agree with Waco-Kid above comments. It appears there is too much over thinking with barrel ports and their effect. They DO make a difference, how much is very subjective, but my opinion is they are worth having in most open guns, especially the shorter built models. I agree with Brazos and have never seen evidence of " elongation " or any detriment to accuracy whatsoever. I don't see how you have any control of where the lands / groves are located where the drilling occurs, you are going to puncture the rifling, period. Use a two flute end mill ( not a drill ) starting with a smaller size then the final size of choice and there should be no problem. Check with a Q- tip swab down the bore, if it doesn't grab your burr free, then go shoot.

My last three builds I've used the Cheely titanium comp with a ported barrel and find the results are very satisfying. I realize people talk like the muzzle brake ( comps ) is the last word on gun performance, but some do seem to work better than others, but In my opinion not that significant. However, I'm using a full size gun with a 5.4 inch bull barrel and find the light weight titanium comp is great for this set up. The Cheely comp is somewhat unusual with the ports having a V shape design, narrower at the bottom, wider at the top, but in retrospect I'm not sure if the performance is anything drastic., but again, I like the design.

I use the 9/38 SC Aftec and only shoot super comp brass, but it will feed super brass without problems, thats the pro of this design. Check to make sure the extractor head doesn't hit the barrel extractor grove/slot when locked up ( depending on the barrel ) If it does, file or grind the extractor head for clearance. Once properly fit, I find these extractors very reliable, BUT, they do need removal to clean the extractor tunnel periodically or you may get issues.

Hello, I've cracked three STI aluminum grips on my open 38 Supers, all paired to STI frames. The crack is always in the same place, just above the mag release button up to the top of the grip area. STI replaced two of them and they both cracked in no time at all. I've gone back to plastic and have never had issues with them. Also, you may find it interesting, the aluminum grips are not very forgiving during reloads when the mag insertion is off just a tad, the mag will bind at the mag well mouth and quite snugly. By comparison, the plastic is very forgiving and smooth.

Had this happen three times on my new builds, especially with the combo of a titanium comp and stainless steel barrel. Yes it's strange, you cannot hand move it but it will clock slowly when firing due to the heat, or if the slide is contacting the face of the comp when closing. Check contact by black marking the slide and looking for contact marks, there can be no contact or you will get issues. You will still have to heat that sucker pretty dam hot to remove it, then clean threads real good, use the primer ( Brownells ) and red Loctite , 272 and you should be fine. The set screw is not necessary, but for added assurance it won't hurt. However, don't use the screw until the Loctite has cured a day later. Good luck.

Some space behind the round as your picture indicates is ok with the slide unlocked, the space will close when in battery. Try the extended F.P. that should solve the issue. Also, replace the mainspring with a new 17 lb. and a slightly loose firing pin stop should not be a problem.

True, many hammers are cut way back in the area where the safety lobe would make contact on the hammer and if enough is removed the safety will go all the way up. However, no big deal as long as the safety works, your good all day.

You did not mention how far up the safety will go, but most safeties will move partially up with the hammer down. Infinity thumb safeties prevent it due to their unique design which you read about on their web. I wouldn't worry about it as long as the hammer holds when the safety is disengaged, which you said it does.

This problem is interesting because ( IT ONLY HAPPENS DURING A MATCH ) Something YOU are doing during the match is the key here. Sorry, I don't know what that is, however, my experience with a MATCH feeding issue is usually my thumb making slide contact and inducing the feeding jam. If the mags work in one gun then they work, I use the same mags ( STI) in several of my open guns without issues. You must try to recreate match shooting and reevaluate.

There are many variables in an open design and the " feel " is a personal preference, as already mentioned above. I' be built a shorty ( 41/4 barrel and very short slide and did not like it much, fast but just to violent ( for me ). I've built a mid size using a 4.8 inch barrel with a steel cone comp and four small popples. It was fast, had nice balance, transition well and was an improvement over the real shorty type. I'm a senior now and my last two builds were full size ( 5 inch slide ) with a bull 5.4 inch barrel and TI comp, with 4 rather large popples 5/32 holes and usual type slide cuts with aluminum grip and RTS2. This set up is working well ( for me ) and the gun shoots great and EASY to handle and transition with a 170 PF. Also, I agree with above post, there are no magic open designs or the " new " generation design ( I've seen the Atlas video ) that will make all other obsolete, but people are entitled to their own opinions, good, bad or indifferent. As its always been, it's the ( person ) behind the tool.

Hello, there should be good deals out there on great used open guns. Sounds like your mind is stuck on production but your heart has a desire for open. You don't need to restrict yourself to one division until you reach A class and I agree with others than a beginner can start right in open. Buy a good used open setup and get started having real fun as some say " on the dark side " I never went back.

Hello, I shoot open in 38 super comp with a Cheely 4 port titanium comp and four popple holes in a 5.4 bull barrel. This is a full size set up which works great for (me) however, I'm very happy with the performance of this particular comp and it will do its job regardless of caliber choice.

Hi Steelix, you are correct on the reamers. You could still use the EGW on the lathe, but those that don't own one can still perform the process easily, as you said using a vise and hand drill. Personally, I like the EGW type with the long pilot, make sure the barrel is fairly clean first then use ample oil on the the pilot and a slow rpm on drill speed. Also, I find this reamer tool a must have item for open shooters to periodically clean up the comp bore and realignment reaming if the comp is removed and replaced.

Be careful when you say shorty, if it's built with a commander length slide, then yes, that's definitely a shorty, which I had and it wasn't nice with major ammo. Guns like Infinity's IMM open are more mid size and are great using their design. Full size built with the right combo ( I use barrel ports with TI comp in 38 sup.) and slide lightening, will do everything needed, the rest is you.

Hello, my thoughts on my last two builds was to go back to a full size five inch slide with a 5.4 bull barrel. Because of the barrel weight I chose a titanium comp ( Cheely) however the B.E? your considering looks very promising, but do use a TI type because you don't need a real heavy muzzle feel. My setup is four popple holes using a 5/32 hole size, however it's chambered in 38 SC. As for slide lightening I chose a tri- top cut, 3 oval shaped side cuts, scalloped rear/ top along with slide racker dovetail and of course the cutout for the barrel ports. You probably can overdue lightening cuts as per some steel guns, but I don't think you need to be over zealous about it. It can be very subjective on the feel of open type guns and I've used the very shorty's ( commander length ) which aren't good for major, to mid size ( AKA, Infinity IMM size ) and now back to full size. I'm an older guy and the full size is now best for my needs and my set- up shoots very nice and I'm happy with it, however I won't use the soft and flat bull shit phrase. If I were younger I'd probably use a set up similar to Infinity's IMM open design, they a hard to beat. Good luck.

(Sorry, typo) that goes under the last two chambers, then blast out the two side ports at the muzzle. Arredondo had this comp around for a long time but no longer advertises it and I've seen only one out there at a Nationals. Everyone thinks it's a Limcat when they see my gun (admit, I've have some similar slide machining) due to this comp.