CPD7119

I have two of the shockbottles and I love them. Very consistent and well manufactured. If I have any casings that sit a little high i pull them and put them in my training ammo box. The rest go into my match ammunition. I've shot the ones that stick put a bit without issue, most will sit flush if given a little pressure.

You might try one of those Prairie Dog perfect powder baffles. I tried one a while back and now I don't load without one. Helps keeps the powder weight consistent at the end of the reservoir. May help with the issue you're encountering.

My two cents, the steel are for your standard reloader. The carbide dies are for commercial reloaders. So if you're going to be processing large numbers of brass go carbide. I have the steel and have been happy. I process maybe 10k-25k a year.

All I'm looking for some input on which case trimmer to get. I've got a ton of brass sitting around and figured I'd start processing it. What is everyone using these days. I already have a dillon rt1200 set up for 223. I am looking for a more precise option. Thanks in advance

I've never directly lubed the necks of 223's. I toss a few hundred in a plastic tube squirt some dillon case lube in it and shake it around and that's all I do. However, I'm just loading 55gr fmj. If I was gonna load match grade ammunition I would probably be more tentative to the necks. Just a matter of opinions and personal experiences. Good luck

I bought mine used from a guy that was processing 223 to 300 blackout. I made sure the press functioned before buying it. I would see if the seller would knock the price down to cover the cost of a parts kit. I'd then go through and replace any part that looks worn or might need replacing. Other option is, depending on how much you are buying it for it might be better to buy a new one for piece of mind and the one year warranty. Unless you are getting a steal on it. Just my two cents, good luck!

I switched to SNS bullets a while back and have never looked back. Another benefit is you'll save a few bucks on the bullets vs plated.

Buy a chrono if you are wanting to replicate nato 5.56. You'll be getting up there in pressures. A chrono would be a wise investment.

I pitch any brass with under sized or off set flash holes. It's not worth the time trying to process it if you keep breaking decapping pins. I've broke a few myself.

Lyman M die will take care of any bur on the inside of the neck. I run the same setup with an M die and have had no issue.

I prefer Redding dies. Ive tried Lee and Hornady but have had the most consistent results with Redding. Get a good reloading book with current load data. I'd also recommend a case gauge. I have a Wilson that works but there are dozens available.

I love mine, i have purchased one for every one of my tool heads. Wont reload without it! Dumping powder is easy too, you can pull it out with a paperclip if you didn't want to try dumping the powder with it in.

SNS casting 147gr bullet with 3.0-3.2 grains of titegroup. Not too smokey and very accurate

For rifles i used mixed brass for plinking. If I'm shooting for accuracy i go with the same headstamp. Pistols i only used mixed. Never had an issues with it.

I know a guy selling on for for $450 I think. 9mm version.

I put a piece of paper between the frame and barrel hood, as mentioned above. For mags i loaded some dummy rounds. No powder or primers and load 10 in each mag to simulate the weight for production. I purchased those scaled down targets and put them up in whatever room I'm in and practice shooting them and doing reloads with a timer.

Since everyone else already covered primers not being seated all the way I'll throw out it could be a bad run of primers. I've had a few over the years that were seated properly and would not go bang even after being struck 3-4 times. So it might not be your priming technique. Good luck

I'd suggest reading the manual before loading on it. It is a very simple machine but still a good idea to give the manuel a read.

You can do it with a dremel but make sure you have a tight hold on the casing preferably with a vise. I clamped a casing to my work bench and it turned out okay.

Not to beat a dead horse as fun as it sounds. Bit Lee universal decapping die and Squirrel daddy decapping pins to replace the lee one when it bends. Ive bent several lee and maybe one of the squirrel daddy pins. Find them on ebay and i think amazon now.

You could try bending your handle if you had a certain angle in mind. I can't imagine it would be that difficult to do.

Here is a bullet weight scale i came across. Take it for what it's worth. Might give you a good starting point to find your weight, like a few others said shoot what the gun likes!

A little late but i was jn the same position. I wanted a cheaper, low cost not low quality 9mm 1911. I ended up getting a STI Spartan. The thing is great, good trigger and for the cost you can't beat it. I've shot several thousand rounds with it and have had only a handful of malfunctions. Definitely recommend it! Stupid me didn't read he already purchased a RO. Disregard my two cents.

Why don't you post some pictures so we can try to assist you with your press.

+1 for the slip2000. Very low oder but very effective. All i use anymore.