CPD7119

I run a redding seating die and a Lyman M die. Just use the M die enough for a little step to set the bullet into to make the seating go smoothly.

Is your case feeder running on the slow or fast setting? I ran into the same issue with 40SW when i ran the feeder on the fast setting. Once i switched to slow it seemed to fix the issue.

I'm wanting to get a new rear rest. The one i currently use has some holes and is leaking, sadly it's on its last leg. What is everyone using and what would you recommend? Rifle is an AI AT if it matters. Thanks in advance

Sounds like a bigger headache than it would be worth...depending on how many times you wanted to shoot the 308 ar. If you didn't already have a rail on your bolt gun I'd say you could mount the scope to a quick detach rail from larue or something similar and mark its location on each rifle. I would probably save my pennies and buy a second scope it would be much easier. Let us know what you decide to do you have me curious now.

SNS Casting has their 125gr conical nose that are slightly longer at the base. Might be worth a look

I stripped my 1050 down not too long ago. Mine was a little tuff to get out but i was able to get it with a little force and heat from a heat gun. I've also had good luck with Kroil.

I got the 9mm dies when i purchased my 650. One: it was easy to just order them with the 650 on the website. Two i have had good luck with Dillon dies in the past. I load 9mm for target practice and the occasional uspsa match and they have exceeded my expectations in reliability and consistency when loading. I purchased the regular steel dies. I figured the extra cost wasn't worth it for 9mm. I'll load a thousand or so at a time and haven't had any issues. I also load 223 with dillon dies but for 223 i purchased the carbide dies. Just my two cents. Good luck

I must have missed it. I didn't read anywhere that he changed his stem around. As i said though when i had the wrong end of the stem my seating depth constantly changed. Some days it was perfect other days too long or short. My problem ended when i changed the stem.

Dam Dillon beat me to it. I was gonna say check the stem inside your seating die if using a dillon die. I used the wrong stem for awhile and has the same issue you are having.

3M carried it on my duty pistol for almost 5 years and it's still grippy and not falling off.

I've had good results with 24gr of reloader 15 loaded to 2.250. Loaded with 77gr bullets

When you screw your die in put a piece of paper between the die and the shell plate. Screw the die in until you cant pull the paper out. Then back it out a little bit. That's what i did and have had no issues with casings passing a case gauge.

W x L x H 5 3/4 x 8 1/4 x 12 Hodgdon clays 4 1/2 x 7 x 12 1/2 Blue Dot 5 x 7 x 10 1/2 Hodgdon H4198 6 x 8 1/2 x 12 IMR 3031 6 x 8 1/2 x 12 Winchester 231 6 x 8 1/2 x 12 Winchester WST Hope this helps

Not a lube issue, tried running casings with a little lube all the way to soaked and same problem occurs. This is a link to a video of the problem.

Alright, I took all the dies out of the tool head. I put a Redding full length sizer in slot 1. I screwed it in far enough to knock the primer out only. Lubed up a case and tried running it. The popping became more intense with just that one die. Any suggestions?

Did you get reimbursed for the shipping costs?

I drilled a hole in the black spent primer cup that comes with the 1050. I then drilled out a 45LC casing, applied some glue to the rim and fitted it in the hole in the spent primer cup. Attached a section of rubber hose that goes directly to my spent primer bucket. Works great and cost $5 max!

I was under the impression that you aren't supposed to size the casing before putting it through the trim die because that sizes the casing. The m-die is to aid in bullet seating with my bullet feeder.

Alright, so the problem I am having is with my 1050. I have it set up to process 223 brass. Decapping die, swager, void, dillion 1200 trimer\ sizer, lyman m-die. The issue is that when I run the casings through the trim station and the m-die the shell plate looks like it flexes. Then on the upstroke it takes a little pull to get the tool head to raise. Once i apply the extra force there is a dull popping sound and then it is easy to move the tool head. Any ideas?

Thanks for the information gents. I got it dialed in perfectly.

I recently purchased a 1050 in 223. I was wondering if I can trim with a standard toolhead or do I need the cut out toolhead? I'm using the Dillon 1200 trimmer with the appropriate trim die.

I had the same issue but mine would work if I only put a few casings In at a time. Keep us posted as to what Dillon says or what the fix is.

I was looking at the same rifle not too long ago. My selling point was the price which seemed very fair to me. The fact that it is a Savage, like them a lot. It has the Accutrigger and a bull barrel. I wanted it for the same reason something to practice with, without breaking the bank. I'd recommend it, if I didn't have other expenses come up I would have picked it up. The free floating barrel and over-sized bolt was a good selling point as well. My two cents.

Still waiting to see those deals posted lol.

I run the Rt1500 seems like the lyman m die is the way to go if you're not wanting to chamfer and deburr each case by hand. I think it's gonna depend on if you're wanting match frade ammunition or plinking ammunition. Match go giraud or other brand that isn't press mounted. plinking go Rt1500.