Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About DownUnder

  • Birthday 08/28/1951

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Perth, Australia

Recent Profile Visitors

657 profile views

DownUnder's Achievements

Looks for Match

Looks for Match (2/11)

  1. Fixed. The index pawl adjustment screw needs to be just right, like Goldilocks. If the adjustment is out a little bit the index pawl can put a small amount of pressure on the shellplate or very slightly mis-locate the ball, enough to introduce a small amount of offset during the passage of a case up into the resizing die. I took all of the dies out except the resizing die and I watched the ball and felt with my finger on the shellplate how the ball positioned as I adjusted the index pawl. Once the sweet spot was found everything was back to normal. It must have moved a bit over time and exceeded the go/no go sweet spot.
  2. My Super 1050 is sizing about 40% of 38 Super cases off center. It has recently started doing this. Some cases size concentric, some cases have a scrape down one side where the resizing die has gone down the brass off center and these cases will not case gauge. Always the same position for the scrape, the quadrant nearest the case insertion station and toward the center shaft. Never the quadrant nearest the primer station. It seems that the shellplate is somehow being pushed back out of advancement by a small amount for some cases. The shellplate clicks into place in a positive manner with the ball. The resizing die has been tightened touching the shellplate with a good case in the station. The same problem is evident using a #5 or M plate with #3 buttons, so tightness of the shellplate slot does not seem to matter. Some cases size perfectly, some feel hard to pull the handle and they size off center. The cases have all been fired in the same chamber. Old and new have the same problem. It happens with all the dies in the tool head, or just the sizing die. Does the same with Dillon and Hornady dies. I have tried coating the front guide rod with marker and seeing where it touched, then tapping the front guide rod to centre it in the hole using voodoo and guesswork and there does not seem to be a lot of difference apart from more/less resistance in the guide. Is it likely to be something like the pawl adjustment screw needs to be in a certain position, or something else that is not obvious? I cannot see anything obvious and it does not happen on every case, so and I am hoping that someone else has had this problem and found a solution. I am suspicious that the guide rod is the culprit, but I would think that would be consistent, not random. All suggestions welcome.
  3. From Wikipedia - Common revolver models that are manufactured to use moon clips: Rare Ruger Speed Six variant in 9mm Parabellum, which uses half-moon clips to chamber the rimless cartridges Smith and Wesson Model 625 .45 ACP moon clips. 9mm Luger Charter Arms Pitbull S&W Model 940 S&W Model 929 S&W Model 986 Ruger LCR Ruger SP101 Ruger Speed-Six Taurus Model 905 Alfa Proj. 9200 series 10mm Auto/.40 S&W S&W Model 610 .40 S&W S&W Model 646 .45 ACP M1917 revolver Ruger Redhawk[4],[5],[6],[7] S&W Model 22 S&W Models 25 (for blue) and 625 (for stainless) S&W Governor
  4. The mount looks like it is mounted on an angle. Are you able to sight it OK for near and far targets? Say, sighted at 10m and still hitting fine at 40m? Most mounts are fitted with the holes drilled parallel to the frame edge - just wondering if the angle affects accuracy, or not. I agree with the others that a thumbrest is good for creating a consistent place to position your thumb but it is not the solution for controlling recoil. They way your hands meet and press together at the rear of the grip is much more effective for creating a consistent lock point that resists the gun pivoting or moving sideways in your grip. A thumb rest that is too far forward creates problems with consistent grip lock.
  5. 1050 press and 38 Super. With a Dillon die some of the cases seem to move a bit in the shell holder and are sized a little off centre and stick up in the gauge. With a Hornady sizing die there is no problem. Maybe it is the shape of the mouth of the die.
  6. A new STI DVC Open that I had came with a soft ejector. It bent while ejecting cases. Not hardened correctly. Try a new ejector first.
  7. My Vibraprime was very problematic with different brands of primers, especially Winchester. So, before tossing it in the bin I thought that I would hack at it and see if I could get it working reliably. The main problem seemed to be the interface between the tray and the drop tube, where primers would tilt or catch. So, I cut off the top part of the drop tube plastic fitting, leaving only a plastic collar and flat surface. This collar was pushed down the tube a little and a Dillon end cap from a primer tube was pushed onto the tube. I adjusted the hole in the grip for a snug fit for the Dillon end cap. To make the height of the drop tube adjustable I removed a section of the collar and screwed a flat screw into the base of the grip. To insert a tube I simply push it up into the grip and turn slightly to catch the collar on the adjusting screw. It has worked so well that I have not gone back and made it more photogenic. The screw and collar are easily fine tuned to hold the Dillon plastic fitting flush with the bottom of the tray and primers flow into the tube like liquid. If I want to adjust the tube height I simply screw in/out a little. This happens if I need to switch primer brands, as the tube height seems to make all the difference. It was a simple and quick fix and it turned the cranky Vibraprime into a fast and reliable filler.
  8. If the recoil spring is too heavy the brass will not eject positively from the gun, leaving it in a position where the optic coming back into battery will connect with the brass. You note that you had a stovepipe and misfeeds. Too much spring can cause these as well. Try using a lighter recoil spring and see what happens.
  9. Just sharing, for those thinking of adding a brass marker to a 1050. It is a simple install on the benchtop if you are happy to cut the spring and make a small bracket. I used some scrap to make a bracket attached to the press using the small Allen bolt that holds the primer catcher. This bolt was not in use on my press, as I have a cut .223 casing and plastic tube to carry spent primers away. The bracket places the catcher just under the ejector bar and the rounds tip straight into the catcher. I removed the original plate that holds the reload container to tidy the front of the press, but it could be left in place as it does not interfere with the new bracket placement. Tweaks to the marker apparatus were: a cable tie to hold the top on more securely; a couple of height adjusters made from scrap nylon and blunt-nosed screws to allow more precise adjustment; a rubber mat glued to the bottom to lessen noise on the benchtop - with added thickness on one end to expedite feeding angle; and re-shaped angles on the Sharpie points by dragging the tips across coarse sandpaper. The height difference in my setup is sufficient for loaded rounds to slide down the tube and orient correctly via the tipper. I would like the motor to be quieter and I don't think that marking in the extractor groove would be consistent every time if I wanted to do that, but I am generally happy with what it does after a few tweaks.
  10. If the brass is not properly clearing the port on ejection it will be knocked forward as the slide closes. Or, it may be clipping the port and bouncing forward as it ejects.
  11. Press the magazine base down onto a table while hand cycling through a magazine. This will force the magazine to sit higher in the gun during cycling. If the rounds all cycle correctly the problem is likely to be the height of the magazine catch is too low. A simple test to eliminate one possible issue.
  12. Cheap multi stack food dehydrator works fine. If you want quick drying - dip the wet brass into a container of denatured alcohol to displace the water before drying. Optional, works fine without this step.
  13. High anvils in Winchester is likely to be the problem. Winchester primers seem to be inconsistent in anvil height, resulting in some primers dragging on the top lid of the primer feeder. I know this is the case with Vibraprime. The PAL feeder probably has a slightly higher lid, as well as a different feed chute shape, and primers do not drag on the lid. Have a look at clearing the anvil height in your problem fixes.
  14. A jammed primer pulled back under the primer tube in a 1050 should break the blue tip and avoid a detonation of the column of primers, so it is a key safety item. The inflexible brass tip from the 650 could supply enough resistance to detonate a jammed primer. Not worth the risk to save a few cents. A simpler long term fix is to work out why primers are damaging the blue tip. For me, I replaced the white retaining tab with a bent retaining wire to hold the case in place at the priming station and I have experienced zero primer misfeeds since the change. Everyone told me the tab had no relationship to jams, to look at alignment, to use shims, etc. Then Dillon moves to a spring wire instead of a retaining tab on the new presses. Like minds.
  15. Re other options. If you want to experiment - compress the hammer spring a litle on a screwdriver or rod and heat it with a propane torch until it is red. Re-temper it by dropping it in oil. You will have a significantly lighter double action. Do NOT do this for a carry gun or a gun that has to meet competition rules. Stretch the spring longer if you have gone too short for reliable ignition. Buying a lighter spring is easiest, but this method works if you can't find a light enough spring.
  • Create New...