rooster

I don’t see a drop safety tab that rest’s on the trigger housing shelf. Is there still a drop safety? By the way nice write up and pics. I think I see it now, it’s just on one side.

On the recoil spring test , I should have said after racking slide keep trigger to rear while slowly returning slide into lock up.

Your springs are fighting each other. Try 13 recoil, dump the 6 trigger to stock, zev calls their striker spring 2, but it’s not it’s a 4 lb . Glock oem 17 recoil, and 5 striker is about a 3to 1 ratio. Try and keep close to that. The 6 lb trigger is known to not reset in some guns, especially gen4. Also do the recoil spring test. Not a 100% test but might show weakness. Unloaded gun, rack slide, point straight up, pull trigger, rack slide and slowly ease back into battery, if it does not lock up your rsa is too weak.

If the sear keeps the firing pin cocked, I wonder if the other 2 safeties are compromised?

I can beat that. When I started reloading a sleeve of 5k was 60 bucks.

Barrel is what matters, but a case gauge comes in handy as long as the gauge is smaller than your barrell then you know if they gauge they will fit. Take a loaded round that freely gauges, measure crimp, .377 is good. Flair and seat your blue, crimp to your previous measurement, or 377. If your round doesn’t gauge your problem is your bullet. However if it fits barrel your still good to go. If your a rim thickness high and it fits your barrel you know as long as your a rim thickness or less they will fit you barrel.

He is a big contributor to this forum. Just search his name.

Don’t know about your particular barrel. If it has one of the coatings like black salt bath nitride it is extremely hard to do as the coating is hard and I mean hard. I had a faxon barrel with this coating and I had a throating reamer than couldn’t touch it. I had previously done a Barsto barrel and it took like 3 turns and done. I think Memphis Mechanic on these forums does these barrels with a special throater. This is why your getting mixed reviews. Easy to do if normal steel, extremely hard and expensive if barrel is coated with one of the DLC coatings.

I’ve been at this game a long time, and I’ve been an RO for at least 10 years. I’ve had shooters screw up a stage so bad there was no way I could figure out how to score it. Sometimes it’s the wording of the stage, the rules, the shooter trying to game it, and other factors you just know was going to happen.

I’ll start a stage with the TTI 23+1, but I don’t think I would reload to it during a stage run. I’ve never had one screw up, and I’ll run a 22 or 23 round stage with it if no steel is involved.

The setback issue with the MA dies is not over flaring. I had one and I tried everything trying to get it to work. The bullets literally would fall into the case. It didn’t matter if they were 355 or 356. There simply was not enough neck tension on the case to hold the bullet. When I went back to my Redding sizer everything was fine. I contacted MA and they refunded my money. Even if you over flair a little the sides of the seating die will bring back the case close to .380 and then your crimp die will take that out to whatever your crimp setting is. I flair to .383, put bullet in and seat, then crimp to .377. When I tried the same thing with the MA it just plain did not work. 383 is not over flaring.

Bradd Pitt, Snatch

Harold and Maude

They just posted again and it’s now 4pm central time.

I just got those same bullets. The above info is correct. I’ve shot a lot of coated bullets and these were the first ones that I could load long. I’m using a gen5 g34 Glock and I loaded to 1.145 and they wouldn’t reliably feed in my Glock mags but would in a Magpul. I shortened to 1.125 and ran them tonight and they ran perfect. At 1.125 I was right at the top of the last band.

My buddy Ralph is 82 and shoots every Friday night, and at least 2 monthly matches.

https://molecular-advantage.com/ been using this for a couple of years now.

Bayou bullets. I just got some 124’s rn, with the lube groove. I have a Faxon Glock barrel that would not let me load over 1.060 with most round nose coated, and not over 1.085 with most jhp, an tc bullets. The Bayous I can load to 1.145.

I’ve run thousands of rounds with oal’s from 1.060 to 1.145 on a 13lb recoil spring with a 4lb striker springs in my glocks. So your oal should be fine. Your power factor is only about 115. I would increase this to at least 135 and take it from there. Being that it’s a jacketed RN I would increase oal to about 1.125 to 1.135 and bump up load to make at least 135pf. There are loads of Titegroup recipes that should get you there. You need about 1150fps for a 132pf.

4.5 striker spring, with a 13lb. Recoil should do it for you. For the guide rod I got the carver custom rod for a gen5 ISMI spring. Not sure about other manufacturers but the gen 5 rod for a g34 is longer than the previous gens. Carvers goes right to the end of the muzzle, you also need the adapter. It made a huge difference in accuracy for me. With the stock RSA at 25 yards my groups were terrible, when I switched to the 13lb spring it was a night and day difference. I went from groups all over a uspsa target to all a zone hits at 25yds.

Pro ears gold, pay extra and get the gel cups. I have had mine for about 6 years no problems. The batteries are kind of weird, they take size N. I double plug when shooting indoors outside there fine. Don’t remember the decibel rating, but I believe it’s 28. I do remember when I searched for electronic protection they were one of the highest available.

I had a partial done on right knee 2 years ago. Stayed over 1 night went home next day. What was kind of neat was the surgery was performed by a robot called a Mako. If your not overweight, smoke, and don’t drink you should do fine. Do the physical therapy I don’t care how much it hurts. You want to get 95 to 100% full range of motion. Once scar tissue forms, and you don’t have full range your screwed. You won’t get it back. It took a good year to be totally pain free. The pain was never as bad as before. Bone on bone is excruciating pain.

Strike industries offer a extended mag catch that’s polymer, but the button is aluminum. The polymer body has a threaded insert and the button attaches with a screw.

Go to a automotive store or Walmart and get the red bottle of ISO HEAT. It is 99% isopropyl alcohol, mix it 12 to 1.

Shoot one of them into a media where you can retrieve the bullet and see if the coating is still in tact.