Oldhand

From the best I can tell the Mighty armory die does not undersize the brass enough and therefore does not have the proper neck tension when using a competition seating die due to the spring inside the die. When I used a standard seat die (no spring) it made proper OAL but you could still push in the projectile in a few rounds and that can cause over pressure or failure to feed. Since adding the Redding die just before the belling die everything is back to normal. I still use the Mighty armory die as the decaping pin is the heftiest I've seen and is excellent. In retrospect I should have ju

I added the Redding seating die in station 4 to hold brass that is. being primed and that seems to have helped by undersizing the brass a little more and the bullet is now seating at the correct OAL with +/- .002. For 9mm I can live with that. Thanks for all the advise especially Mike, you were right..

It’s a HUGE variance.

This Yes, have two Evo’s.. upgraded from 2 1050’s. Love the Evo there’s super smooth and in the near future want to auto drive them, just wanted to work out the kinks on the new loaders first. just read last update, I need to turn off the auto check as it keeps changing the words. I pulled apart the die and cleaned it again, thinking of giving the stem a quick polish as it seems to stick in the die body.

With yes old die they vary +/- .003. It’s my might armory seating die. I’m due the difference is in the bullet length for this die. Not so much the dis it’s self. I was switching out this die to the Redding as it has the Delron insert and I have deformed it when the bullet didn’t seat correctly while loading.

Just once fired range brass, so mixed head stamps and oal set with all stations full

Set up my Redding dies the same as in the Video from above....

Use a Mighty Armory sizing and decaping die, swage hold down die, Belling die (set to just let the bullet to get positive seat on bullet feeder, I have powder drop only drop powder does not bell, MBF dropper, then the Redding comp seating die and Redding comp taper die. Cleaned die , made sure that belled brass would not rub inside of die but still get positive sea t(bullet in brass) with die body only, backed off Mic to 1.5 then installed. When I was setting up the final measurements one at a time no issue and got it where I want one I started to load it then started to set diff

I’m sure someone Has had this problem. I’m getting wide ranges of seating depth in this die from 1.06 to 1.36 everything set up correctly not sure what’s going on? wanted to see if anyone had an idea.

Just got the First Evo in yesterday and was setting it up, everything is good except for the powder measure, wanted to see if anybody else has had this problem. I run a MA bell die in station 5 have it set perfectly for the bullet. Then set the powder die to depth so it moves the measure screw to the top and should dump a charge and not bell the brass. Went to set the powder charge and screw the meter screw in (clockwise) for no powder and it will not actuate the drum, it locks up funnel and splits the case, With the meter screw, screwed more than have way out, it will will still not move

Had the same problem with 40 sticking too. Ordered the Mighty Armory taper die, stuck it in position 2 use that to bell and backed powder funnel off to just drop powder. Best money I’ve spent no more sticking and the bullet has a positive set In the case and doesn’t fall over or move when cycling. Can hpost video to show bullet doesn’t even wiggle if you want to see.

I'm looking for one for the wife as the 2011 grip is a little big for her, but at this rate would be easier to find a unicorn in the store first. LOL

Didn't see the post a couple below me, that's what I get for looking on a phone. LOL Mods please close

Just picked up a low round count PM9, with g10s and a Dawson ice Maxwell. Is there any think else I need to do to it by chance that current owners noticed it needs? Not sure on putting in a SVI trigger bow for shave weight and hopefully it makes weight just under 43oz. Going with my load from the Phantom that make 130PF, not sure what spring it has or what I should run to limit the nose dive, if any, with a stock spring.