Oldhand

It's still Cast vs Billet "I only want cast parts on my gun-motorcycle-anything" said no one ever.

Curious to see the pic, hope it might help the splash to,

https://www.ebay.com/itm/37-oz-PEG-75-Lanolin-Sold-by-Weight-/254629671054?hash=item3b491c708e This is what Wayne at MA recommends for his dies. I cut it 1-9 with the 99% alcohol. Trick is to spray liberally and wait 15-20 for it to evaporate, it will not gum up the dies like one-shot or dillon lube, no experience in brass juice.. I Also dont have to media tumble in the end to remove the excess case lube. I bought the 10oz jug of it and have enough to last a long time and I reload for 4 of us that shoot.

For the cast version might as well just get the 1100, and save a thousand. I bought 2 EVO's last year (CNC) when I heard they were in process of doing the cast. On a side note probably a good time to pic up an extra head if they're still CNC, I'm sure they'll be a premium down the road used over the cast head. Did anyone beta test the primer express? If they're good to go, I'll sell the RF100 and get a couple..

I’m surprised people have not bought it all up for use as hand sanitizer base with all that hoarding that’s been going on.

Really, I didn't know that. I'll go pick some up.. Thank you.

I cut it 1:8 (1 oz to 8 oz alcohol) with 91% rubbing alcohol , you can also go 1:10 ratio too. The stuff is on EBay only place I could find it and recommend by MA. Mix, shake apply let set 15 min to dissipate the alcohol and good to go. I mix a batch 400-500 at a time. https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-oz-PEG-75-Lanolin-Sold-by-Weight/264769132281?hash=item3da57856f9:g:mSIAAOSwJOJcRgqP

Wayne did turn me on to the case lube that works awesome abs doesn’t buildup like one shot or Dillons . I’ll post a pic if there are any requests for it.

I originally went with the MA to get rid of the coke bottle look, lol. But now running the Redding and the belling die if looks damn close to factory ammo. I’ll post a pic of the set up and made rounds. I’ve gone to this set up for 40 and 223, I just use the MA for decapping and the initial under sizing. It seems easier to do the under sizing twice and my evo has an easier/smoother pull when making rounds. I did wish this thread was done before and I could have saved some dollars along with the headaches

From the best I can tell the Mighty armory die does not undersize the brass enough and therefore does not have the proper neck tension when using a competition seating die due to the spring inside the die. When I used a standard seat die (no spring) it made proper OAL but you could still push in the projectile in a few rounds and that can cause over pressure or failure to feed. Since adding the Redding die just before the belling die everything is back to normal. I still use the Mighty armory die as the decaping pin is the heftiest I've seen and is excellent. In retrospect I should have ju

I added the Redding seating die in station 4 to hold brass that is. being primed and that seems to have helped by undersizing the brass a little more and the bullet is now seating at the correct OAL with +/- .002. For 9mm I can live with that. Thanks for all the advise especially Mike, you were right..

It’s a HUGE variance.

This Yes, have two Evo’s.. upgraded from 2 1050’s. Love the Evo there’s super smooth and in the near future want to auto drive them, just wanted to work out the kinks on the new loaders first. just read last update, I need to turn off the auto check as it keeps changing the words. I pulled apart the die and cleaned it again, thinking of giving the stem a quick polish as it seems to stick in the die body.

With yes old die they vary +/- .003. It’s my might armory seating die. I’m due the difference is in the bullet length for this die. Not so much the dis it’s self. I was switching out this die to the Redding as it has the Delron insert and I have deformed it when the bullet didn’t seat correctly while loading.

Just once fired range brass, so mixed head stamps and oal set with all stations full