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About BryceA

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  1. From my reading of the rules, no the M&P sub compact is not BUG legal, the barrel is too long. Max barrel length is 3.5" while the M&P barrel comes in at 3.6". The G26 barrel is 3.43".
  2. They got cheap on the case. Check under the foam, all the goodies are hidden under there. After a while they get less shy and fall out every time you open the box. And congrats on your new P10F! It's a fantastic platform. It starts out good but after about 1K rounds everything on my has loosened up and feels even better.
  3. TL;DR: I need to practice more to get the muscle memory built up with the M&P, but it looks more promising after taking a few hours to examine what's happening in live fire. I went out to the range this morning and played around with some of the suggestions here and made a comparison with my P10F. With some careful attention, I can lock both of my wrists with just a slight increase in elbow bend as compared to the P10F platform. Both consistently return to center alpha when paying careful attention to form and grip pressure. The M&P may even be a bit better at returning, probably due to an ever so slightly softer recoil impulse. However, the M&P doesn't feel as natural and it's easy for me to 'relax' out of a properly locked grip. As far as grip force is concerned, making sure I used a 'pinching' grip (see the 'Bob Vogel on grip' video) with my strong hand that is firm but not so much as to compromise dexterity while then using my support hand to crush down as hard as possible without shaking was the best, which is roughly the consensus of this thread. A bit more strength would help even more, but I suppose we can all say that.
  4. Mine is still bone stock and I love it, which is what I find most appealing about the P10 platform. Spring rate feels right, though I may play with it this winter. It's probably that I'm used to Glocks, but I'm quite happy with the stock trigger: it's a bit on the heavy side for a game gun but not bad and I can still get a straight-to-the-back pull out of it pretty much every time. I do want to change out the front sight but was waiting to settle on a load so I could order the right height, so that will probably change soon. Oh, and I should get some grip tape.
  5. Heh, we picked the exact opposite size configuration: I tried the 135 TC in .356" and the 147 in .355". My P10F barrel slugs at .356, a bit larger than my other pistols so it makes sense to me why it likes a fatter bullet. Perhaps yours is the same. I was curious about their 147 FP but the lube grove and lack of representation in .356 in their 'special order profiles' kept me away.
  6. Are you using .355 or .356? I had some slight leading with the TC 125 even with .356. As you noted, their RN profiles have to loaded super short for my P10F. Their 147's shot soft enough but loading them so short worried me and they weren't as accurate for me as the 135 TC which also can be loaded a bit longer.
  7. Depends on the bullet, but typically between 3.6gr and 3.9gr Sport Pistol with 3.8gr or 3.9gr being ideal in terms of PF for Gallant 125's (not providing loading advice only person experiences, use published data, lawyers, etc...). I didn't group them since they were signs of fouling after a few shots so I can't comment on accuracy.
  8. Sounds like we've had similar experiences. Btw, I'm loading Sport Pistol exclusively now. When I first started reloading I did load some Gallant 115's (.356) with Titegroup to make what seemed like a lead squirt-gun. I've gotten the Gallants in 125 and 147 RN at .357" to work in my Gen5 Glock (haven't try them in my M&P, yet), the Ibeji 147 FP in .357" work great in Glock and M&P 2.0, and the Blue Bullet's 135 TC in .356" work in everything, no leading at all from the sample pack. The coating on Blue Bullets is very thick and a bit more elastic unlike the typical Hi-Tek coating which is quite thin and tends to flake when scraped. I found good (enough) accuracy from the blue bullet 135 TC .356 and just ordered a case of them. Hopefully lead fouling is behind me...
  9. Does any of the PTSG content the address the concern of locking the wrists? I have a number of Stoegers books and he goes into detail about how hard to grip but I don't recall discussion about locking wrists. Perhaps the whole hypothesis is a red herring? Regardless, I'll look into PTSG.
  10. @Mitch_Hoff, do you get any leading with those Gallant 147's? I I've been getting a small but consistent amount of leading in my P10F from pretty much every coated bullet I've tried other than .356" Blue Bullets. I've tried Brazos 125 (.357), Gallant RN 125 and 147 (both .356 and .357), Ibeji's 147 FP(.357), and Blue Bullet (.355 and .356). My brother-in-laws new P10F also fouls quickly with Gallants but is alright with Blue Bullets. I loaded them all so I could very well be the weak link.
  11. Lets not get to far into the weeds with how much to grip the gun unless someone is suggesting that locking the wrist doesn't matter. Presumably I'm gripping my Glock and M&P platforms roughly the same, so I'd like to focus on how to properly position my hands/wrists/elbows/shoulders to get my technique corrected with the M&P platforms. What do you do to get your sights back up on target when wrist locking: keep your elbows a bit more bent? Or perhaps in your case the Glock platforms track high with properly locked wrists?
  12. My M&P9 2.0 in 5" is the softest recoiling pistol I have but I have a much harder time getting it to bounce back on target than a Glock of a CZ P10 platform. While doing some dry fire practice I started comparing presentations, and it may be the difference in grip angle causing me to fail to properly lock my strong hand wrist (hard to be sure since it was dry fire, but this is my working hypothesis until the wind dies down and I can get some live fire practice in). When I point a Glock (or CZ, we'll just say Glock from now on) I get a very natural presentation that includes a well locked strong hand wrist, not hyper-extended, but just at the point of discomfort. This is not the case with my M&P: if I present with a well locked wrist I'm naturally pointing low. Historically I've been relaxing the strong hand wrist a bit to get my presentation on target. While this works great for transitional shots, follows ups are often squirrely and I frequently find myself slinging the second round of a double-tap low, consistent with me fully locking the wrist on the second shot while attempting to manage the recoil of the first, pushing it to 6 o-clock. Now how to fix this. What should give? Is it better to bend the elbows a bit to maintain the wrist lock and sacrifice a bit of rigidity in the middle arm (what I've been told before) or is it better to let the strong hand wrist relax a bit and keep the elbows bent outward slightly, and spend more effort using the weak hand for managing recoil? Or perhaps something altogether? And sorry if this has been covered before, I didn't find anything with a search but that is hardly conclusive.
  13. That is my gut instinct but not many folks are running M&P's around here. For limited most folks are running some form of 2011 platform and in production CZ S2 dominates with a smattering of poly-service pistols, mostly Glock and Sig, picking up the remainder. I also don't see much M&P representation in online media, Youtube match videos etc, so it has me wondering if there is something I'm missing.
  14. Ha, that is a challenge. I've never ran a 2011 either, so I'd be very interested in any comparisons you can give. I'm only about a year into competitive shooting so at this point the firearm probably isn't the limiting factor but if the M&P 40 has no chance of being competitive, even at local matches, perhaps I should pass.
  15. @tohm, I've been toying with the idea of a M&P 40 M2.0 for USPSA limited so I'd really love to hear how it works out for you. I already have the 9mm version and really like it but want to try out limited (I've been doing production) so I'm day dreaming about a budget limited option.
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