rooster

Over bell case, run it in the seat die, that measurement is what I set the bell for. For crimp make sure your case gauge is smaller than barrel chamber. I check this by crimping lower and lower until round chambers in barrel but not in gauge. Then continue until it chambers in gauge. Just make sure oal is not affecting the round in the gauge or barrel chamber.

Thanks

Thanks, I just sent SCSA an email. It didn’t go to Zack just the general email address.

Where do you get a reclassification request? I am in a similar position. I believe an inaccurate time was recorded that bumped me to GM. I am in distinguished senior class and only shoot L1 matches. When I checked my classifiers used to calculate my scores I noticed that my times on Accelerator were far below my average times. On a good day I might be in the 2.30’s, but times scored were in the low 2’s and one was a 1.99. The date in question was over a year ago and I never noticed the error until I finally made GM. I believe only 4 hits were recognized by the timer.

I use the loose gymnast type chalk in a bag. Does leave hands white, is messy, but for like 5 bucks you get probably 2 years worth. I keep the sock in a plastic bag, put my hand inside give it a couple of squeezes, then move away from other shooters and clap hands a few times.

If you’re using bullets with a wax coating that is probably your problem. Wax is extremely difficult to remove. Heat is best way. WD40 does a pretty good job. Do a search to find other methods, but gun cleaners, alcohol, petroleum products have no effect.

Some people use this in combination with the “minus” connector. Which takes away the “mushiness” and makes for a nice clean break.

Excellent post CHA-LEE! My method is similar. I shoot for poa, poi at 10 yds, then for windage only at 15, 20, 25 etc. Then I come back to half the distance of the furthest target I expect to shoot at and adjust elevation only. For me as I shoot steel challenge that distance is 17.5 yards as the furthest target is 35. This I do benched then I check freestyle. If it’s off a lot you have a decision to make either readjust or correct your ability as you know the gun is on.

Make your own with Stabil, and pure lanolin. Get the red container of stabil its 100% alcohol. Mix it 12 to 1. Mix in a spray bottle. Works better than one shot, and way cheaper.

Both, dimple the underside of sight to raise material. Try sight in dovetail, should go in about a third with just finger pressure. If too tight file dimples down a little, if too loose raise more. Apply the locktite, drift home with nylon or brass punch.

Take a punch and dimple the underside of sight, add the locktite. If that doesn’t work get a oversized new sight and fit.

If you had a top gun class you could leave peak times as they are and anyone over 100% would be “top gun”. That us mere mortals would still have a chance at GM at 95%. Changing peak time by only a quarter of a second is huge when in A and M class.

Why not have a “top gun” ranking which would be over 100%.

The scorpionX has the new barrel which is drilled and tapped for most of the popular red dot sights. This brings the dots to the lowest possible orientation to the bore. Mounts are not needed, as the optic is attached directly to the barrel. Another point is you can purchase the barrel only and mount it to your MKII or MKIII frame.

Check that the timney housing hasn’t risen in the frame. The screw that holds the housing via the glock trigger housing might have backed out or broken the glock housing. When the timney first came out that was a problem, then they started shipping with a little washer because too much torque would break the glock housing. Your supposed to use locktite on that little screw.

MKIII mags will work in a MKII. You have to file down or hammer flat the 2 “bumps” on the side of the mag that catch the mag release on the MKIII’s. I did it and they work flawless.

I had to do some haggling but in the end I was refunded my purchase.

You need a cobalt drill bit. Not sure of size as I did mine years ago, but I think it was a 1/16. You can drill straight through if you want. That way next time you can just tap it out. Or if your careful you’ll feel the point at which you hit the bottom of the blind hole with the bit. Just get the bit that fits the roll pin that’s in the hole.

You have to eliminate all variables in order to use case gauge. This includes crimp and oal. You have to know that your gauge is smaller than the barrel you are loading for. First thing I check for is crimp. Size a case and turn bullet upside down so it is not going to effect oal. Check in barrel and gauge it should not fit. Keep adding a little crimp till it fits barrel. It should not fit gauge, if it does your gauge is bigger than barrel. Keep crimping till it fits gauge. When it does you know that crimp will fit your barrel. Now on to the oal. Select a oal that you know is too long and keep shortening till it fits your chamber and add another 15 or 20 thou. To allow for variations in press. As far as bulge goes I use the Redding sizing die and I get mostly a 100% pass, I might get 1 or 2 that fail but that’s it.

I’m using the Redding micrometer seat die also. I over flair a case and run it in the die without a bullet, then I measure the case mouth diameter. Then I set my case flair to that dimension or just a little over it, this way the die keeps the case straight while the bullet enters it.

This might help. I’m using it now and it seems to work. https://benstoegerproshop.com/limcat-custom-red-dot-sight-anti-glare-shield/

This

Could you have an edge hit on no shoot and hit the plate? In that case you would get both hits. If it was a full diameter hit in no shoot the plate hit would not count.

The decamping pin can be shaped to minimize the sticking problem. When I tried the MA die I had neck tension issues. Bullets would literally fall into the case. I tried everything I new how to do. I have been reloading for 30 years and never had this problem. I tried reducing, adding bell, adding more crimp, different brass, different powder droppers, different crimp dies, Lee FCD die. When I went back to my Redding sizing die all problems went away and I was back to normal, so I know it was the die. In fairness I received a full refund. Not sure why others have better luck, but I would check bullet setback religiously. I was using jacketed bullets at the time with a od of .355, so using coated with the extra .001 might help the issue I had.

All I can say is if your using these dies I would check neck tension very carefully.