rooster

same thing happened to me, i have been shooting a 45 for 14 years and never broke an extractor. just recently bought sti eagle in .40 and on my 3rd match broke the claw right off. i just insatlled an aftec because everyone seems to have had good luck with them. there instructions are okay but their pictures are terrible, the diagrams are ok, their website is terrible, no info on how to install at all. i had a problem that was not on their instructions. i did everything like they said but i had no tension at all. the instructions only give a way to reduce tension. i called them and they said they were having the same problem with sti guns and to just put the extractor in a vise and tap it with a hammer and move the hook in a couple of thousanths. i did that and now have a what seems to be enough tension to hold the round in place. I am shooting a match tonight and hope this has fixed my problem. These things are way too pricey to have to fiddle with them too make them work. has anyone else had installation problems ?

I just started loading for .40 as I just purchased a sti eagle 5.1 pistol. As I started looking at all the load data I see a huge difference in oal for this round. I have seen as low as 1.115 all the way to 1.220. Why the big difference? The load data in the factory manuals give a max oal of 1.135. What is the benefit to loading long and can I do it my new pistol? My load at present is a 185 gr precision bullet over 4.0 tg at a oal of 1.135. I plan on switching over to a 180 gr zero next week. I haven't had time to chrono yet but will do so in the near future, so I wanted to start a little low for now.

I zero mine at 15 yds.

How should you sight in your pistol, off the bench or free style. We were discussing this the other day. One opinion is that if you use the bench, any errors that you now have in free style shooting can be traced to improper technique. Because the pistol is dead on, and you have taken out most of the human error. The other thought is that you shoot freestyle groups and if the groups are not where you want them you adjust accordingly.

You might try this it has worked for me but it takes awhile to get used to. Have your eye doctor make a script so that one lens of your glasses is focused for the front site and the other lenns is scripted for distance. your "brain" will make the necesssary adjustments. This way you don't have to look over or under your bifocals. I beleive it is called monovision, they sometimes do it with contacts. When I go to a match I put the glasses on way ahead of time so I get used to the different vision.

I noticed the topic about zeroing limited guns at 15 yards. I was wondering if you do that does that mean that everything beyond 15 yards, hits would be low and, anything shorter than 15 yds. would be high. If this is true how much? How do you zero a gun properly? I just shoot about 15 or 20 rnds at the desired distance offhand and then throw out the fliers. And if the group is mostly off from where my sights were I then adjust and do it over. I was wondering if anybody had a better way. I don't like to rest it because that is not how you actually shoot. I like the 15 yard idea because my ailling eyes have difficulty seeing at 20 or 25 yds, but where would you hold for a 25 or 30 yd. shot?

I bought this book at Barnes and Noble the other day, and although it is for golfers, the topic can be applied to all aspects of shooting. The title is "BE THE BALL" A golf instruction for the mind ,by Charlie Jones and Kim Doren. The relationship between golf and ipsc was uncanny. I found it in the discount section and only paid $ 6.00 for it. Check it out you will be glad you did.

I have an Svi hammer and sear, and the tri glide trigger system in my limited gun. I just installed the parts, didn't touch a thing 2.25# trigger pull. That was a year ago. It has run perfect ever since. The tri glide for some reason makes a difference in pull. I tried installing a different sear spring and if I get the pull down to where the Svi is it follows to half cock, when I get to where it doesn't follow it is up to over 3#. Its good stuff. I use a 16# recoil spring and a 18# mainspring. I tried a titanium hammer strut and a mainspring cap it, was junk. they galled and my gun failed during a match because the parts were so galled up the slide could not recoil. good shooting

What about this scenerio? 3 target array, targets are close together, shooter fires 6 shots ,4 shots on one target ,2 shots on the other. Does he get 2 misses and a fte? He says he engaged but missed. Rule 9.5.9 is a little unclear. If you have a large round count stage and you have a target with no holes and your timer count shows more than the number required how do you know that he did not engage the target. You as the RO are busy watching for safety concerns, and I don't see how you can say he did not engage the target.

I too have my glasses set for monovision. I have spent a fortune trying to find something that works. I have my right eye corrected for the front site and my left eye for distance. I see 2 guns with both eyes, now I can basically do 2 things, I know which gun is the real image so I can shoot that way, or I can squint my left eye a little and the double image dissappears. You can also shoot with one eye closed which I did for many years with no problems. Its basically whatever works for you. I beleive shooting with 2 eyes open is overated. If you can do it fine, if not then one eye will have to do. Its the hits on the target that matter.

DB, thank you for your advice I will try what you suggested. I think that you hit my problem dead on. I already did the math and the spring should not be in bind with only 2 coils cut off, but I couldn't understand why when I cut more off I didn,t get back my full travel. I believe your check will tell me what I need to know. thanks again. chuck

I am having a problem in trying to use a shok buff. I have measured my slide travel and it is 2.140 inches. If I mark my slide to where I get maxium travel and install a shok buff, my slide travel is about the width of the buff short of full travel. I have cut off 5 coils of a 33 coil recoil spring and no difference, but when I take the buff out my total travel returns to normal. I have a caspian slide and frame. Has anyone got any ideas?

the 4.9 with a 230 gr. bullet is a minimum load in a 6" barrel. I just started using 320 with a 200 lswc, 5.0 grs. gave me almost 900 fps, so i dropped it to 4.7 an i am now getting around 860.

the 4.9 with a 230 gr. bullet is a minimum load in a 6" barrel. I just started using 320 with a 200 lswc, 5.0 grs. gave me almost 900 fps, so i dropped it to 4.7 an i am now getting around 860.

I too got confused about the terminology, also I had a ISMI spring still in packaging with instructions on how to fit a spring. It doesn't work out. They say to remove spring and retract slide as far as it will go, and mark end of slide travel on frame, then install spring and do same, if marks do not line up then clip spring until they do. I tried this and my marks never lined up, I had cut almost 2 inches off. I beleive this was because the spring tunnel was stopping when it touched the guide rod head. This distance is fixed and I beleive unless you have a really long spring you would always bottom out with the tunnel before the spring coils touched. After I tried Duannes method all my springs were correct.