rooster

Sorry didn’t see that you were shooting open. Might not be able to shoot coated.

Buy coated and save your jacketed. I just got 2 orders from D&G. Pretty fast shipping considering all the happening these days.

Yes, good catch. Flair should be .385-.388

Tried about every major manufacturer of connectors there is. When it comes to connectors Glock has their s—-t together. A good polish job and their minus, or dot connector cannot be beat. The only other connector that’s as good is the TTI. Change the safety plunger spring, and polish the trigger bar, change the striker spring to a 4.5 lb. and your good to go. The minus will give you a rolling break, the dot a nice crisp break that is not as heavy as the 5.5.

I have gone through 2s3f, 3 Barsto, and 2 KKM‘s. For me they were all no better than oem. I decided to try one more time after reading how barrels were made. I read where button rifling was the preferred method of rifling match grade rifle barrels. Of all the barrel making companies only KKM and a new kid on the block rifled barrels using this method. KKM does 1in16 twist, Faxon a maker of AR barrels does the traditional 1in10. Their barrels are also salt bath nitrided. I bought one and I can tell you straight out that it is more accurate than stock. Another plus is it’s as reliable as stock. I have over 3k through it and not one failure. The only negative that I have come across is the chamber is real short. The longest bullet so far has been the Blue Bullet TC. I can load that out to 1.115, everything else is around 1.085, to 1.070. I say for most shooters stay with stock until you are sure that you should move on to a aftermarket barrel. Inside of 15 yards the stock barrel will be fine. From 15 on out is where the aftermarket market will start to out do stock.

I have a 550 so this might not pertain to you. Set it up just like you would any other funnel. It’s just longer. The 5 turns is just a starting point. You want the powder bar to travel it’s full extension, and the case flair should be good at .585 to about .588 for 9mm. Enough to set the bullet in place. What I do is over flair the case then run just the case in your seat die. Measure the flair again, then set your funnel to a few thou. over that. Doing this keeps the case straight because it’s contacting the die wall on the way to accept the bullet. The alpha dropper is a great improvement over the mbf, I get no stick at all, it worth every penny.

A fellow shooter told me this trick and I use it. When looking into powder charged case say “powder”out loud. You now have 2 inputs your vision and a audible sound.

I thought it was a coating also. I had a slide done by primary machine. It’s about 2 years old and there are no wear points at all. They did a really good job.

On my 550 press I run a redding titanium carbide sizer, a redding micrometer seat die and a lee crimp. I just got the alpha powder drop and what a difference. Worth every penny.

What barrel was it? And what bullet allowed you to run at 1.150? Are you saying that your solvents removed the nitrided process?

Not sure, best to do a plunk test. If your slide closes on a too long round it’s pretty hard to get it unstuck. Plunk test and then subtract 15 to 20 thou to allow for variation in your rounds. And adjust powder drop accordingly.

Read this. Black Nitride Black Nitride is becoming more common and slowly replacing the parkerizing of steel parts. Most chrome moly barrels that were parkerized in days past are now melonited, which is a fancy name for black nitride. Nitriding vastly increases the hardness of the metal that is treated without changing the material dimensionally like the build up of a hard coat. This treatment is great for use on barrels to prevent corrosion and increase barrel life. A barrel that is nitrided is going to be more accurate that a chrome lined barrel because chrome plating takes away some of the sharpness of the rifling. The black nitride treatment is very durable and highly resistant to wear and it will not flake because it is not a coating.

I also have a Faxon barrel in my G34. No issues, except when trying to do plunk test the rounds have a tendency to stick. The chamber is cut real short and when I tried to throat with a reamer the coating is so hard that the reamer didn’t even put a mark on it. As far as accuracy out of about 5 different barrels that I tried this was the only one that increased accuracy by a wide margin. Reliability is spot on maybe equal to the oem. My only gripe is it’s a pia changing loads or bullet profile. Everything has to be loaded short, and plunk tested. Plus you have to start from scratch on load data, because not much info out there on these short loads.

Look at the MGW tool not sure if they make on for a sig. I got one for the Glock and it is a well built tool. It runs about a hundred bucks but worth every penny. They make a universal one that fits everything but it’s about 300 bucks. Check them out.

Just received some DG 125 rn coated bullets. I have shot quite a few different coated bullets over the years and these might be my go to from now on. My only gripe about bullets in the reloading world is how come so many of these companies can’t make a bullet profile that fits minimum sammi spec chambers without loading short. I just bought a Faxon barrel for my G34 and every bullet that I have purchased has to be loaded extremely short. The DG was 1.070, PDJHP needed 1.080, MGJHP 1.060. The bullet that has been the longest so far was Blue Bullet 125TC and that was 1.115. Sorry if I’m little off track From the OP.

Any spray bottle will work. Just needs to be able to hold about 16 ounces. Put the lanolin bottle in some hot water to make it easier to pour. Then just mix and shake it up before use. Works great. After loading I place all the rounds in a towel and rub them a little to remove the mix. That’s it. The spray bottle does have to have an adjustable spray pattern so you can mist the plastic bag.

I quit the one shot because of the expense. I make my own lube with lanolin, some iso heat, and a spray bottle. Works better than one shot, and is way cheaper. The formula is 1 to 12. ISO heat is 99% alcohol, it’s 3 bucks, and the lanolin I think is 6 bucks for 4 ounces. I just spray a couple of pumps in a plastic bag then add the brass and roll it around. You can get the iso heat at any automotive store, and the lanolin at a organic store like wholefoods, or online. You need 99% alcohol and it’s hard to find. The iso heat is 99% alcohol. You can find the recipe on you tube.

Ok

Damn what a good idea! I’m going to do it tomorrow.

I see no benefit whatsoever in the MBX mag. Glock mags for 19.99, add a Taran basepad for 40 bucks and your good to go. I guess if you got the money and that’s what you want go for it.

The cheapest I ever got one for was 19.99.

I have tried so many that I won’t name them all here, but I keep coming back to either the minus, or TTI. I think the TTI is a minus with a Taran’s coating. I tried sketching them out on a piece of paper and I think they are the exact same angles. When installed in the gun the Taran feels just a little smoother, but breaks a little later. The Glock plus is really nice if you like a wall that is not as firm as the stock 5 lb.

The channel liner also has a bevel on one end. It needs to be installed bevel end first. If the previous owner couldn’t instal that right you might want to remove and replace with new one. A tool is made just for that purpose. The liner a one time use only. You can’t remove without destroying. You can remove with a 5/16 lag bolt, but you need the install tool to install.

I have been shooting my 34 for about 8 years. I can probably count on 1 hand my malfunctions, and they were due to ammo or after market mags. I’m running the tungsten guide rod and that’s it. There’s no free lunch, add weight and transitions are harder to get gun moving and stopping. The overtravel stop by way of the set screw in the trigger housing is legal. The thug plug is legal but I believe you have to file a little off to make it so it doesn’t protrude beyond the grip. That’s about all you can do,