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The Alpha Dropper Powder Funnel is excellent. They use some kind of coating where sticking is virtually gone. Your problem is the MA die. I went through this problem for hours trying to make it work. When I went back to my original sizing die problem went away. Get another sizing die from any of the other reloading companies. To set up flair, I over flair a case and run the empty over flaired case in the seat die, measure that opening, then try to get your powder funnel close to that measurement. This lets the sides of your seat die keep the case straight while seating your bullet. IIRC for 9mm this measurement is .383 to .385, crimp should be around .376 to .379. Even if you get the Dillon sizing die you can grind the bottom of the die flat until your just shy of the carbide ring and that should remove most of the bulge in 9mm cases.

The only rust I have seen is a little on the primer magazine tube. I wipe down the ram ever so often with oil and that’s about it. I do keep it covered with the Dillon nylon cover. I completely tear it down twice a year to grease and clean it. It’s been outside on my screened in back porch in florida for about 30 years. IFIRC it’s been back to dillon once years ago.

I did this morning. It’s a 3mm metric nut.

Does anyone know the size of the nuts on a CR speed mag pouch. The one that screws on the end of the adjustment threaded shaft. I know you can but the kit but it’s like 17 bucks, and all I need is 2 nuts.

Could you elaborate on the gen5 housing and the gen3 trigger bar. Do you have a gen3 gun or a gen5? The gen5 housing does not have the hole for the trigger return spring to be able to use the gen3 bar. And vice versa. The gen5 bar does not have the drop leg to attach the trigger spring. Could you maybe take some pics?

I’m having an issue with mine also. There is a “hitch” when the vertical extension lifts the safety plunger. There was a definite machine line in the extension so I polished it out. So I removed the np3 coating to get rid of the line. However the “hitch” is still there. If I turn the pretravel screw in so that the safety tab is just shy of the frame, I can get rid of the hitch, however my firing pin safety is probably compromised. Anyway I took it out and went back to my old set up, which was still better than the timney. This is on a 34.5. My old setup is a Johnny glock modified oem trigger shoe with pretravel screw. I’m running a 4lb striker spring, with a TTI connector. This gives me a smooth 2.75 lb pull with all safeties intact. The timney would not go below 3lbs. TTI just did a video and he gets them down to 2lbs, so doesn’t johnnyglock, I don’t know how they do that.

Hunter’s Gold, can pretty much put their lenses in any frame. You have to contact them and see if they will do the frame that you choose. I have a pair of Decots Reville frames and they said they could do them. I just haven’t done it yet. zeiss lenses are probably the best lenses out there, but paired with the Pilla frames the price is just crazy expensive. Hunter’s will also do prescription lenses, don’t know about the Pilla.

Owned 2, not very impressed. Sold 1 still have the other. Fits a G17 if anybody wants it message me. Fit was rather sloppy. GX blows RH away.

If muzzle was pointed down does it change anything. If gun was pointed down you could see if dot was on and nobody would probably notice you were even doing it. You un bag at berm point muzzle down and look through optic and see dot. Is that a dq?

Not sure how a seat/crimp die works as I do that in 2 separate steps, but the way I set up my flair is to over flair a case, put it in the seat die without a bullet. Run the ram up then measure the flair. Mine usually comes out to .383, now set up your flair just a little larger than the measurement you get. I set mine to .385. The purpose of this is that the wall of your die will now keep the case straight in the die body as your bullet is seated.

Push the pin so it will let the base plate slide off. It will not hurt the spring at all. If you are never going back to the oem base plates you can take a razor blade and cut the little nibs off. That will make it easier to remove.

As long as you know that the gauge is tighter than your barrel it does come in handy because you don’t have to take your gun apart to check rounds. What I do is flair the case insert a bullet backwards and crimp so that it just removes the flair. Check it in your barrel, it shouldn’t fit, then try it in your gauge it also shouldn’t fit. Keep reducing crimp just a little and keep trying in your barrel and your gauge. When it finally plunks in your barrel and hopefully not your gauge you know your gauge is tighter than your barrel. Keep crimping until it fits your gauge, now you only have to find the oal that fits your barrel. That’s why I turn the bullet backwards you don’t want the ogive of your round influenceing your measurement.

Try this. Size case, check in gauge. If it gauges then there are only 2 things that will prevent the gauging of the loaded round, oal or crimp. Some gauges have a step that your bullet will touch, others are pass through like the shockbottle. If you know your crimp is good then there is something wrong with your bullet. 9mm crimp is usually.376 to .378. I think sammi spec is .380, but that’s cutting close in your match chambers.

Not sure, I think if you know the platform and are comfortable working on glock triggers, I think you can get better. I think you can shorten the take up a little more and still be on the shelf. You can mix and match all kinds of oem and aftermarket parts to get exactly what you want. However this is a very good innovative trigger which at a 150 bucks gets you an excellent trigger.

Absolutely correct. My 17gen 3 ran without one for quite a while, before I finally figured out there wasn’t one in there. If in doubt just try to install a liner, chamfered edge first, if it goes there wasn’t one in there.

I started with the dot in my 34.5. Got 3lbs., nice wall crisp break. Minus connector got me to 23/4, a little less wall, all most same break. I had a TTI so it’s in there now. Break right at same or a little less that the minus, but a little less pronounced wall. I don’t know if I’d call it a rolling break but close.

Get 1 plus 6 TTI extension, or any reliable plus 6. Then get at least 2 magpul 21 rounders. You can start with 23 plus 1 and reload to a Magpul with 21, or start with 21 plus 1 and load to 22. I download to 22 so the TTI seats a little easier on the reload.

A little washer might work as long as you had a few threads into their housing. Their instructions don’t really say too much about that screw.

I posted about this same thing a while ago. If you search you might find it. I actually did it and had no problems. One article I read said to look at all the bullet weights that your using in manuals. Find the minimum max load for that bullett. As long as you don’t go over the fps. for that load you can do what you want. Example a 124 jhp. Your using n320, go and look up all the max loads for that bullet weight , doesn’t mater if it’s jhp. Say the max fps are 1080, 1100, 1120, 1050, you take the 1050 which is the minimum max load of all the bullet weights. Go ahead and shorten a few of your loads, chrono them as long as your under the 1050 your gtg. Now the disclaimer. This worked for me, but may not work for you. You need a chrono to do this. Of course the safest way is to just pull them.

Well that was a mistake on my part. I just checked that screw, it was tight but I could pull the timney housing out of the trigger housing. I had a spare and tightened it to the lip and I couldn’t pull the housing up. I must have tightened it too tight and broke the lip.

What does the little screw on the bottom of the housing do? They say to tighten it, but I don’t see that it does anything. My thought if maybe it was loose and wasn’t holding the housing down therefore the lug might be riding on it. Over on tactical toolbox his fell out and because he had a plug he found it. He also says to locktite it in which i did.

Have no idea. Been using ISMI and Wolff for about 8 months with no problems. As a matter of fact at 25 yards my groups were all over a uspsa target. When I switched to a 13 lb. spring I was able to keep them all in the A zone. The Carver guide rod is longer than the gen 3 ( don’t know about the 4), but the length of spring that I’m using is the same in both guns.

Carver custom has specific rods for the 34.5. I have one each for the ISMI and Wolff springs. His bushing fits both rods. Been using them for over 6 months with no issues. The striker and recoil springs work against each other. You have to find the right combo to reliably lock the slide. The factory 5lb striker with the oem 17 lb recoil is about a 3to1 ratio. I try and keep that. So for me that was a 4.5 striker with a 13lb recoil.

Another update. I was getting a little less than 3 lb pull with the dot connector, 4.5 lb striker spring, and a 11 lb recoil spring in my 34.5. I went back to the minus connector and dropped to 2.5 lb. with a really nice strong reset. This combo is what I think I’ll be using going forward.